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Replaced the mount on my wife's car yesterday. I noticed some fluid stains on the splash guard when changing the oil that turned out to be where the mount's had come out. The hardest part for me was removing the 17mm bolts. Took about an hour but I'm sick and my tools are scattered between 2 garages.
 

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Should ADD -->

To Make Sure You Mark the Location of the Top Bridge - Safety Yolk - it should be Centered on the Holes
Placed in Frame - just make Sure Lined Up . Furthermore Air to Blow out the Threads , and
Jacking Motor High enough to get a Great Mating between the Steel Motor Mount Flange & Motor points.
Thread those First on Re-assembly , so Not to Damage Threads .

Location & Air & Threading Motor Points First & Jacking Higher for Proper Thread Engagement :


Jacking Higher for Proper Thread Engagement making sure - Surfaces Line Up Motor - Then Start The Threads .
 

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Is it necessary to jack up the pass. side as noted in the OP? Can I do this while on ramps?
 

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i just did mine with jack stands last weekend. i dont see why ramps wouldnt work. as long as you have a jack for the engine you should be fine with ramps.
FYI - all 4 of my bolts were 15mm. i did not have the two 17mm described in this writeup.
 

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i just did mine with jack stands last weekend. i dont see why ramps wouldnt work. as long as you have a jack for the engine you should be fine with ramps.
FYI - all 4 of my bolts were 15mm. i did not have the two 17mm described in this writeup.
Excellent! I assumed jacking the pass. side was merely to allow room for the jack under the engine, so ramps do the same thing, but evenly!
 

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what if a bolt sheared off in the block? does it need to be tapped or can i drill it out and put a nut on the back side?
 

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your going to have to use an easy out, it should come out easy if there isn't any corrosion.
 

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Did mine today. Although my old mount wasn't leaking nor falling apart, it had sagged about 1/2 inch. I had to jack the engine up more to get the mounting holes realigned to install the new mount.

mine sagged so much that the crank shaft pulley rubbed a hole in the splash guard.

had that same rattling over bumps and right hand turns. replaced the cv half shaft and wheel bearing, but that didn't help. too it to my indie shop, asked them to check out the rattle and do the 60k maintenance. the claim to have inspected the engine mounts and found them to be ok. suggested that the rattle was the lower control arms.
 

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mine sagged so much that the crank shaft pulley rubbed a hole in the splash guard.

had that same rattling over bumps and right hand turns. replaced the cv half shaft and wheel bearing, but that didn't help. too it to my indie shop, asked them to check out the rattle and do the 60k maintenance. the claim to have inspected the engine mounts and found them to be ok. suggested that the rattle was the lower control arms.
edit: looked at it again at home, saw the hole in the splash guard read this thread and figured it out myself. time for a new mechanic.
 

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Just did this today.

The bolt on the left or inside didn't want to sit flush and I didn't want to keep torquing it and snapping it off. So I tightened it as best I could.

I used a 2ft breaker bar to loosen and unloosen so it was easier. Mine came apart like all of yours.
 

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So, I replaced the mount last night and had a hell of a time getting the 17mm block bolts out...figured they were just in there really tight and pb blasted, tapped the bolts, torqued, pb blasted again, tapped the bolts, tried to remove again, but they just wouldn't budge...

As sweat started pouring I decided to step back and see if I could use a different combination of extensions to get some more leverage...then I noticed that the piece of wood that I had used to place between the bottle jack and engine was a little askew...all of the tugging, swearing, pb blasting, etc was all for nothing...the bottle jack was at fault and wouldnt hold any pressure past a few seconds.

Took the jack out of my wife's car jacked up the engine, went at the bolts again, and they came out with not much problem at all *sigh*
 

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Does anyone have torque specs for both the limiter (17 MM) and mount (15 MM) bolts? Going to replace mine this morning and would love to know...
 

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By the book the block bolts should be replaced as they are "torque to yield".

Two bolts in frame member M12. 90nm (66ftlbs)
Engine pad to cylinder block M12. <strike>70nm + 50° (52ftlbs + 50°) Not sure who came up with 50° but that's what's listed.</strike>
EDIT: Latest VIDA now lists torque as 133nm (98ftlbs)
 

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I Be Careful on Pulling that Block Bolt - have the Engine Jacked in a Manner to - Relieve Stress on those Bolts ( To Much Jacking and Your Adding Stress ) has to just Right !

Also I'd Hit those with Fluid , Heat and Tap on them to Break the Threads Loose . ( It's Ionizing 2 Different Metals that some Chaps ) have Stripped those out .

One over the Alternator Especially . ( Hardwood 1" Thick Or 1" thk. HD Flooring Plywood ) ..
 

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Replaced today and torqued to 80 ft.lbs all around. Last time they should ever be out on my watch, so ah well!
 

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Replaced today and torqued to 80 ft.lbs all around. Last time they should ever be out on my watch, so ah well!
So did you finally answer your own questions? You were asking why to go under car with a jack to get the four bolts from the top a long time ago.
 

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So did you finally answer your own questions? You were asking why to go under car with a jack to get the four bolts from the top a long time ago.
Haha, yeah I sure did. I wasn't understanding the need to support and lift the engine at first. Duh!
 

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I apologize for the redundant information but I figured this is the best place to check my shopping list before ordering, and I really don't want to mess this one up. So please forgive me :)

My vin number ends in 109637 so those replacement parts should be the one mentioned in the op post:
(I'm changing all bolts since they are cheap enough and it does help)
- Sems screws x2 M12x40x48.5 part#: 30741277
- Flange screws x2 M12x55x62.8 part#: 985299
- Engine mount part#: 31262676

http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/s...=7072&ukey_driveLine=483&ukey_trimLevel=11149

The torque for those are (or am I confused):
- Sems screws (holding limiter) at 66ft/lb
- Flange screws (holding mount to engine) at 52 ft/lb --> I'm not sure what the 50* pczeilon mentioned means.

I should, shouldn't, not necessary, use red or blue thread locker glue


Do I get all this right?
 
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