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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With 92K miles on my 2006 VR, I performed a Sea Foam treatment on my car. The results have been remarkable- engine is smoothsmooth and has quieted down, and overall she feels better than new. Process is really simple as you treat three components of the car: crankcase (oil), fuel system, and vacuum system. The first two are cake; the last takes a little work. Here's what I did (text from http://www.seafoamsales.com/mo....html or off the can):
Purchase two cans of Sea Foam (16 oz), two feet of 3/8" tube, a small funnel that will fit the tube, and a new 3/8" clamp to replace the single-use one from the factory at the vac line.

^^Yes, the warning label came upside-down from the factory...

Crankcase- As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise, pour 1½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity, including filter. For the R, I used 9 ounces. Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, and then do your oil change service - Lube, Oil & Filter (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re-liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbocharged & Supercharged applications where oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, and leave those residues that NEED CLEANING.
Fuel System- Use 1 ounce Sea Foam Motor Treatment per gallon of gasoline. Can mix up to 2 oz. per gallon of gasoline if necessary. Mixing at less than 2/3 oz. per gallon will impair the effectiveness of Sea Foam. I used the remaining 7 ounces when I was below a half tank.
Vacuum system- This was the most challenging part of the process. I used the tube connected to the vac intake below the OTE pipe. First remove the two screws holding the OTE pipe to the engine so you have some pipe movement. Then remove the two screws holding the engine cover. Pull slightly forward and move to the left to remove. The vac line with the single use clamp is right there, centered on the engine. Remove the clamp and pull the vac line. Attach the 3/8" line (a little difficult, but it will fit)


With warm engine running, SLOWLY induce 5-1/2 ounces into the vacuum system. The liquid will be sucked right into the engine. Turn ignition off. Restart engine after 5 minutes. Be sure exhaust is well ventilated. Fumes will be extreme for a short time. I restarted 15 minutes later and they are not kidding- the smoke the car puts out is crazy.
When driving the car over the next day or two, there is a lingering odor that disappears. But performance improvement is palpable. Any R with some mileage on it deserves this process.

I hope this info is clear and helps others in taking care of their ride. 'Scuse the pics taken at night w/ poor light.
Thanks to rushin_max for pointing out where to induce to the vac system, and everyone else in the R forum that has made me a little smarter in taking care of my car.
Best- Scott
 

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Thanks Scott. That is an awesome writeup.
I was actually planning to do mine soon just because I noticed some minor power blips and some hesitation at idle when coming to a stop.
The usual suspects have been ruled out so I figured Seafoam should be next.

http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
 

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i did this to my old 960 and the difference was def felt. i wasnt sure if i would do i to my R but i may just give it a try now. nice write up
 

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Re: (sacrifice)

Quote, originally posted by Lightspeed »
and then do your oil change service - Lube, Oil & Filter (LOF).

I must be retarded but when changing the oil where does the lube come into play? (besides having the dealer change your oil and the lube needed for the anal port)

Thanks for the write up, I just bought two cans for my '01XC, which I should be doing here shortly.
 

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Re: smegma (petew)

Quote, originally posted by petew »
smeg in a can
Pete,
Stuff works well in Volvos.

L-O-F is just a term from the past. I guess we all should drop the "lube" part but it's just a phrase we've all used for so long, it's part of automobile jargon
 

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Re: smegma (JRL)

thanks Scott, great writeup
thanks 850arrg for asking the question I didn't want to ask
thanks JRL for answering it

Phuz how many miles do you have on your 06? I don't feel this is for me yet, but I what do I know...
 

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Re: (850arrrsaylikepirate)

Quote, originally posted by 850arrrsaylikepirate »


I must be retarded but when changing the oil where does the lube come into play? (besides having the dealer change your oil and the lube needed for the anal port)...

Door jams, hinges?
 

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Re: (llabahn)

Quote, originally posted by llabahn »


Door jams, hinges?

Hehehe, that's what I thought.


Quote, originally posted by FEO »

thanks 850arrg for asking the question I didn't want to ask

My pleasure.
 

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Re: (FEO)

Quote, originally posted by FEO »


Phuz how many miles do you have on your 06? I don't feel this is for me yet, but I what do I know...

Approaching 43k.
I actually bought some MAF cleaner yesterday and it did eliminate most of the stumbling at idle when coming to a stop, which I didn't think it would.
 

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Re: (FEO) (phuz)

Quote, originally posted by phuz »


Approaching 43k.
I actually bought some MAF cleaner yesterday and it did eliminate most of the stumbling at idle when coming to a stop, which I didn't think it would.

Perhaps an oil catch can on your intake piping is in order?
 

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Re: (FEO) (JonathanL)

Great write up...I plan on doing this my next oil change...

Where did you order the SeaFoam? Thanks.
 

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Re: (FEO) (Blurry)

Quote, originally posted by Blurry »
Great write up...I plan on doing this my next oil change...

Where did you order the SeaFoam? Thanks.

You can get Sea Foam in must auto parts stores. It's near the other fuel injection cleaners.

BTW Scott, thanks! I didn't do the engine ingest (and I didn't leave it in the oil long enough last time) so it'll be done again sometime soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: (FEO) (Needsdecaf)

Quote, originally posted by phuz »
That is an awesome writeup.
Thank you. Just trying to add some quality content to the forum. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

btw- The Sea Foam product states that it is an oil itself, and to use the remainder you have left over to top off your engine before your next oil change. Good product.
Scott
 

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It works great but yeah smokes a lot. My neighbour came by to see if there was a fire! I just did a couple treatments on my '92 Mustang. First can went in 1/3 to vacuum line, 1/3 through oil cap, and 1/3 in gas tank.

Drove for about 500 km over a couple weeks then did another 1/2 can through the vacuum line, and then an oil change the next day.

If you put it in your oil, don't leave it in too long....put fresh oil after a while.
 

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Time to Do Mine

I'm going at this today. I'll try to post some clearer pics of the vac line.
 

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Re: (S60inToronto)

Seafoam is a solvent carried in a light oil. The light oil carrier has a very low flashpoint, which causes it to burn off and vaporize when you run it through the engine. That's what causes all the smoke when you start up the car.

Typically, intake deposits and sludge are caused by the lighter constituents of your regular motor oil vaporizing and depositing on the interior of your engine/intake. The solvent component of Seafoam is there to dissolve existing deposits and resist further deposits from its own oil carrier.

If you run Seafoam in your oil for too long, the solvent will be "used up" and you will likely start to develop serious deposits, which is exactly what you were trying to get rid of in the first place.

Furthermore, the solvent is harsh on all of your engine seals, so the contact time should be absolutely minimized.

IMO, Seafoam in the intake and gas is OK (assuming that you're OK with the very real possibility that it will foul your plugs and/or your oxygen sensor(s)). However, as with any strong solvent, if you add it to your oil there is a possibility that rather than liquifying deposits, it will cause solid chunks to be broken loose, which are then free to migrate to clog up the oil pump/oil lines causing oil starvation in critical areas.

My preferred product to add to the oil for cleaning is auto-rx, which is based on an ester of an essential fatty acid (lanolin) that slowly dissolves engine deposits over the course of a normal oil change interval. Auto-Rx can be purchased here: http://www.auto-rx.com

Just my 2cents.

J
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: (soupandspoons)

Quote, originally posted by soupandspoons »
My preferred product to add to the oil for cleaning is auto-rx
Jeff- thanks for the alternative. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif Scott
 

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Re: (soupandspoons)

I cannot keep from adding my two cents worth. 96 850 Turbo (not an R), with what may have been a rear main seal weep, a very pronounced noise (new) from a sticky lifter?, and slightly over 110,000 miles.
I was encouraged by what a friend had to say regarding one of his products, BG Products MOA , and the results that had been reported from some of the local dealerships, I decided to give it a try.
One 11 ounce can of Moa added to the crankcase of a warm motor, thirty minutes of varying the idle (including some 2,500 -3,000 rpm range activity), and :
1.) after about 10 minutes the lifter noise was gone
2.) rear main seal weep is no longer present
3.) car runs like new

BG products have a fantastic reputation in the industry, and I have become one of their most enthusiastic spokesman.
 
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