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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this is a old subject for many. So this is more like a newby thing, or perhaps someone whose just getting into actually opening the hood and working on the R themselves as they are sick and tire of being taken for a ride at the delars, received horrible service, whatever they are turning to the DIY’er.<p>Ok, I recently changed out my upper mount, and I can confirm, the shifting is significantly improved from the old oem. (at 60K miles) I noticed that probably about 40K miles was when it started going bad.<br>For those of you wondering if this something to do, if you have over 36K, probably so. Not to mention this is probably going to extend the life of your angle gear, for the cost, do it, it’s a very good idea IMO.<p>Ok, so about the technique, I’ve been reading about removing the stabilizer (black) bar up top, and it’s not hard but just not needed if you have even a reasonable set of tools at the house to work with. For that reason I took some pics and added some helping comments. You need to remove the OTE or over the engine pipe, it’s not hard, you should learn it as most everything with working on the motor requires it, so just learn it and don’t be intimidated by it. It’s a 7mm head for the hose to pipe connection, or one could use a screwdriver, I prefer a socket head and 10” extension to reach down in to it. (Right by oil dipstick for those really new to this) There are 8mm bolt and 10mm bolts that secure the OTE pipe from moving around. The final clamp is behind the motor and one needs a torx T25 to loosen it enough to squeeze enough to lift it up onto pipe allowing removal. A socket is good for the access in here, using say, an extension of 10” or so, to get clearance. I used a handy T tool I have a set of that I like.<br>Here’s a pic of the , pipe, clamp, and tool I used.<p><A HREF="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3658661442/" TARGET="_blank">http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3658661442/</A><p>The blue cover needs to be removed due to one bolt on the mount being under the cover.<br>The same torx bit can be used for the cover.<p>Next comes the mount.<br>There are 4 bolts holding it down. They are all 14 mm. There are two long on the left and two short on the right side as your looking at the motor. The hardest is the back right due to clearnace. What I used to have no problem with it is a small ratchet and shallow socket. Access was no problem …see pic<br><A HREF="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3658049253/" TARGET="_blank">http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3658049253/</A><p>The bolt and nut that goes through the bushing is two sizes, 17 mm and 18mm. I used ratchet, socket and an open end wrench. No problem there, once it cracked, it a hand turn to remove. <p>To remove the bushing, I put it in a vise and used a socket that was the same size as bushing sleeve. Don’t worry about the old rubber, and there’s a nylon type collar that will come with it when you tap it out that protects the metal sleeve of bushing mount. Sorry, I wish I would have taken a picture of that but when I did this my wife had actually gone to the store and she had the digi with her. BTW: This was done in the time to took my wife to make a grocery run. I waited on her to finish and get some pics. <br>It is an easy job and I don’t blame IPD, or whoever supplies these, there are a number fo ways to skin this cat, and if one is really confused about it, they probably shouldn’t attempt to do this. <br>Hence… no directions. Makes sense to me. <br>So, here are some more pics to perhaps help others on the bubble take the plunge and do it at home.<p><A HREF="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3658073173/" TARGET="_blank">http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3658073173/</A><p><br>The new mount installed, notice the bolt holes, I really suggest putting back bolt in the pipe on in place, not actually clamping down, starting in back with bolts, snugging them by hand, starting car, and tightening with the motor on, you will not feel and harshness with mount if you do this. I firgue the torque lbs to be about 25 for mounts and 40 for the bushing bolt. I could be wrong, that’s a guess.<br>Also, when tightening use a crossing pattern. Back right to front left, to front right and then back left.<p><A HREF="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3658056517/" TARGET="_blank">http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3658056517/</A> <p>When isntalling the bolts, you can do with hands by turning bolt with one hand and wiggling mount with left, this prevents the dreaded cross thread entry. Just me, seems like the way to do things, I always when working with the motor try to do things like this. Prevents a lot of headaches IMO.<p><br><A HREF="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3657959091/" TARGET="_blank">http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3657959091/</A><br>All the bolts removed during the change of mount.<p><A HREF="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3658049253/" TARGET="_blank">http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3658049253/</A><p>This is the ratchet and socket used for the back bolt of mount. …Loads of room!!<p><A HREF="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3657518307/" TARGET="_blank">http://www.flickr.com/photos/alley1/3657518307/</A><p>Here’s the hard to reach bolt again. <br>Best IMO, to get ahold of it from the back side and work with a ratchet or ratcheting wrench.<p><br>So there you have it, hope this helps.<p>
 

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Re: How to Replace old upper engine mount (Dzljet)

thanks for the write up and perfect timing!<p>I'm replacing this mount this weekend <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: How to Replace old upper engine mount (atacamaR)

Great!!<p>Did the pics come out for you because when I looked at it, there we're only the dreaded "Image Not Avl" x's. <p>I changed it to URL links but I'd rather the pics be there if possible.
 

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Re: How to Replace old upper engine mount (Dzljet)

Thanks for sharing<p>I replaced my bushing only, without taking the mount off the car (and therefore without removing OTE pipe, blue cover)<p><IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>the way to do this is to CUT the old bushing out twice (taking a chunk out)...then it slides out easy<p>there are older threads on how to do this. Saves up some time.
 

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Re: How to Replace old upper engine mount (FEO)

I would agree, the easiest way is to cut out the old bushing and put in the new one without removing the mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (ktm_525)

Well, I agree with cutting it out being fastest if you're looking at it from a timed event perspective. However, some may not wish to do that, they may be changing out with OEM and therefore have a whole new mount, or they may be changing out with a newer style, so cutting isn't for them.<p>This could be a help for some on how the OTE pipe comes off, etcetera...
 
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