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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Since I couldn't find an actual DIY how to guide in my research for this, but plenty of other information on how to do it and thought I'd post up. Here goes, everything was done inside the car:

Tools required:

-T25 screwdriver or socket
-1/4" drive ratchet (thinnest head you can possibly get, longest handle you can find)
-10mm 1/4" drive socket
-10mm ratcheting wrench (flex head preferred, but not necessary)
-3/8" drive flex head ratched (fixed head also works, this is general preference)
-13mm 3/8" drive socket
-long, stiff flathead screwdriver
-long (3-4ft) pry bar/crow bar
-favorite B.F.H/implement of mass destruction (i favor a 5lb sledge)
-needle nose pliers
-brake cleaner/pb blaster
-grease gun with favorite grease (green grease 101 ftw)

Procedure:

Start by removing your side panel trim, kick panel trim, and lower door panel trim. Kick panel is 2 T25 screws. Side panel requires moving driver seat back all the way and tilting forward edge up to access the slotted retaining pin. Pull your telescopic steering all the way out and tilt wheel up as far as possible.

Pull back front edge of carpet and flip up the outer layer of the boot to expose inner metal compression clamp for lower half of boot. Using needle nose pliers, remove this clip. Pinch the ends together and slide it up the boot to top of shaft then work it off like a key ring. Set aside. Pull up on lower portion of boot to release. *Note: there is a needle bearing/roller bearing in the top if the boot. In my case it was seized to the shaft and came out of the boot. Be mindful of this on reassembly and reinsery into the grooved landing of boot before install*

Using your 3/8" drive ratchet, remove the upper 13mm nut on the pinch joint of the shaft under the kick panel area. Remove bolt, Slide pinch joint up to remove shaft coupling.

Now the tricky part, removing the lower pinch bolt. Center and lock your steering wheel. You should see the head of the pinch bolt facing left. Using your 1/4" drive with 10mm short socket, loosen the pinch bolt. Its a tight fit but with some persuasion you can do this. Switch to 10mm ratcheting wrench to finish off the bolt.

From here you are ready to remove the shaft. Fcp blog says to use a screwdriver or chisel to split the pinch joint open then hammer up on the bottom of u joint to separate from steering rack shaft. A long pry bar (read 4 ft long) to get away from being under the dash while swinging your B.F.H/implement of mass destruction is preferred, but a long cold punch chisel will do if all else fails. Ideally something with an angle in the tip for prying up. Take said pry bar/excuse to buy new tools and pop the hood. Insert pry bar down between intake tube and brake booster with angled tip up. Wedge into lower half of u joint and using the engine hoist eye (right next to top mount) lever up sharply. If you soaked it with enough lube it'll pop right off.

*Note: highly suggest spraying (read bathing) this in PBlaster or another heavy duty penetrant oil overnight, then hitting it again in the morning.*

Reinstall is reverse of removal. Install shaft on rack, insert and tighten pinch bolt on lower portion. Slide boot over shaft, reattach upper portion to column by sliding column down over, insert pinch bolt, torque all to spec. Clip boot to floor, push carpet back down, and install trim. Easy peasy. Now enjoy the newfound smooth steering, like buddah!


Pics to come. Its really a case of having the right tool for the job here :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Dont be afraid to spin the wheel 90 degrees left or right (actually expect to do this multiple times). The shaft can only be installed one direction. The top has a recess in it to line up and allow the pinch bolt to go thru.
 

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4,477 Posts
This is why I pay Ben to do some of this stuff. He swapped the coupler in my VR in like 30 min. He did it using a jack too, not the lift.
Though he lifted it with the jack to the point where it was ready to flip over. His jack prob costs as much as my ****t70 lol.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did mine on the ground, no jack required. Not a hard job, just not a lot of space to work. Id give it 1.5 outta 5 stars difficulty. If you can change a wheel you can change one of these.

My issue was lack of a proper pry bar because all of mine grew legs and hopped into other people's toolboxes/junkyard cars/ off the brooklyn bridge...need to invest in a good set from the snappy guy. Theres a reason the good ones are $400+

I tell you what though oh, it made a huge difference. Like they say in Boston Wicked yuge 😂
 

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Yeah it tightens the steering up for sure.


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah it tightens the steering up for sure.


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Mine wasnt loose per se, just wasn't...smooth? At full lock it felt bouncy, at 45-90 degrees it felt progressively too tight. Now its like i can flick of of the wrist steer the car and its the same effort all the way thru rotation. Still a bit bouncy at full lock, but thats pump related im sure.
 
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