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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
If you have a CEL # P0193 "fuel rail press sensor A circuit high input" and your caR is stuttering intermittently during acceleration and/or cruise then you probably just need to replace the fuel pressure sensor. This is a 30 minute to 1 hour job depending on your skill level and how many beers you have available.

Parts - supposedly these will all work fine:
0261230110 Bosch
30756097 Volvo
LR005493 Land Rover
LR015294 Land Rover
1582665 Ford

I replaced mine with the LR part # LR015294 - $65.38 +S&H on CarPartsEstore.com - and reset the ECU, then 500+ miles of driving yesterday and not one hiccup. The only difference is that there was no standoff hole on the new sensor for the special wire tie. No big deal, just wire tie the bundle to the sensor body itself to take up the slack.

The sensor is only held in by one torx head screw. Just make sure to bleed the fuel pressure before removing it. Go to the passenger side of the fuel rail and you should see a fitting resembling a tire valve stem. Remove the cap then put a rag over the valve and use a screwdriver or similar implement to depress the valve. A little fuel will come out but not a lot. For safety's sake, do it on a cool engine to avoid combustion.

The easiest access to the sensor for me was to remove the air box and snorkel and access the sensor from the side rather than taking off the OTE pipe and fuel rail cover. Pics:


side view from where air box was removed. Sensor is removed in this shot.

comparison of the new LR sensor (left) and the OEM one (right)


Too easy! :cool:
 

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Tried the cheap LR015294 part. It appears to work. The part itself has 'Volvo' and 'Bosch' on it, but not Land Rover so go figure. A couple of notes:

When you depress the fuel pressure valve, fuel shoots straight up like a dolphin's blow-hole.
When you take the fuel pressure sensor out, all the fuel in the fuel rail comes out and falls on your engine and to the floor if you don't have a rag underneath.
You do not have to remove the whole airbox, just the top, filter, and snorkel.
When you put the new sensor on, push it straight on and do not try to twist it back and forth to make it easier or you risk breaking the o-ring.

First the MAF got dirty, and I had to clean it to remove the check engine light. Now the fuel sensor is replaced, and again the check engine light is gone. Any more electrical gremlins out there? At least the fixes have been cheap thus far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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New part number

I did this today, and there is anew part number. It's now 31272730.
However- the actual part has a Bosch number that is the same as the prior one.

For those of you that are doing this. My sensor was *very* tough to remove. In the end the gray end piece broke loose from the actual sensor that goes into the fuel rail. A few moments of fear before I was able to remove the remnants.
 

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I am a new owner of a used 2004 s60r. for the past two months its has had the 3k hiccup problem. I have taken it to three volvo specialists, replaced spark plugs, coils, and fuel rail press sensor and the problem always comes back. now one shop is saying that i have to drop $500 for a "fuel pump control module". I am hesitant to spend more money with no results but I miss being able to drive my new car above 3000rpm. I have read alot of posts on various sites and it seems the fuel rail press sensor always is the issue. Any advice or updates on this stutter issue would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I had this problem for 2 months before I figured out what the problem was and replaced it... Would or could this damage anything if left unfixed for extended periods of time?
 

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I have the same hesitation at different rpms on and off boost. My question is what is the actual part name? Is it the fuel pressure regulator or is it the fuel rail sensor or map sensor? I obviously need to check my codes but I haven't seen the error code the last time I checked even though I had the same issues then.

Does it always result in an error code?
 

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I did this today, and there is anew part number. It's now 31272730.
However- the actual part has a Bosch number that is the same as the prior one.

For those of you that are doing this. My sensor was *very* tough to remove. In the end the gray end piece broke loose from the actual sensor that goes into the fuel rail. A few moments of fear before I was able to remove the remnants.
I looked up "31272730" and this part is a lot more expensive than the Land Rover Part.
 

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I have the same hesitation at different rpms on and off boost. My question is what is the actual part name? Is it the fuel pressure regulator or is it the fuel rail sensor or map sensor? I obviously need to check my codes but I haven't seen the error code the last time I checked even though I had the same issues then.

Does it always result in an error code?
It has a few names. PEM. Fuel pressure sensor is common.
 

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I'm having some trouble pulling mine out. How hard can I pull it? I don't know how hard I can pull it so I haven't attempted anything.
It was in there pretty good on mine, but you should just be able to pull it out, if you need to twist it a little, did you release the pressure first? If not make sure you have a rag or something around the area.
 
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