[Swede40]

I was working on my brakes bleeding the fluid tonight to screwed up. The piston fell out and dumped brake fluid on the floor. Fortunately the reservoir didn't go empty so I shouldn't have air in the system.

I was able to get to rubber boot around the piston and push it back in. Is there anything I should do to prevent it from seizing? Do I need to clean it out or grease it or anything? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Thommykent]

Just bleed it again because you have a ton of air in the system now.

 

[Swede40]

Just bleed it again because you have a ton of air in the system now.

Thanks! The air would just get into the fluid line for that one caliper, right? After I got the piston back in and reassembled the caliper it seemed to work ok, but I may just not be noticing. The brake pedal may be a little soft though. I also noticed that the spilled brake fluid left a streak on the ceramic coated Zimmerman rotor. Not my best work.

My biggest concern is that in addition to the piston debacle on the front brake, I was not even able to bleed one of the rear lines. The bleeder screw on one of the rear calipers is totally corroded and fused in place. The bleeder bolt is completely stripped. I tried PB Blaster, an extractor socket, and more. I got a new bleeder but can't get the old one out. Any idea how to get a stuck bleeder valve put?

Thanks!

 

[sklooner]

You may have to drill out the bleed screw and use a screw extractor-sadly I find you have to use so much heat that the caliper needs rebuilding, maybe source another one just in case

 

[02Pilot]

I learned some time ago to keep a few extra bleed screws around following a similar experience. Fortunately, they're soft metal, so they drill out pretty easily. Go slow, start small. Get a decent set of screw extractors. With patience, you can get the remnants of the bleed screw down to a very thin ring of metal that should come out fairly easily. Of course, how much time and effort you want to put into such a job is likely to depend on parts cost and availability.

 

[Swede40]

Thank you @sklooner and @02Pilot. I actually ordered a new screw extractor set right after it happened. I got the Grabit Micro set for small screws and the Irwin set with left hand drill bits and spiral extractors. I also ordered an OEM bleeder screw from eBay. They have an assorted set at AutoZone but I'd rather just play it safe it the OEM one.

Any recommendations on a good source for reman parts like a caliper? I don't want to spend a bunch in a new one. Used is even ok if it's not seized. I'm hoping I can just replace the bleeder but if not I'd like to order the new caliper fast.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[02Pilot]

Rockauto has a bunch of options. None of them are too expensive.

 

[Swede40]

Wow Rockauto has a reman for $49. That's about what I spent on a new bleeder screw with shipping plus the screw extractor set. I would rather not take on the project of replacing the caliper if it doesn't need it though. My car is at that old age where the more you dig into it, the more you risk breaking a new bolt or causing some other issue.

 

[02Pilot]

There's always a risk once fasteners get rusty and go through lots of heat cycles, but really, none of these cars are that old. The last one I had to deal with a snapped bleeder on was an 89 Saab 900S - now that car was rusty (when I got it, both rear upper shock mounts had ripped out of the unibody due to rust, for example). I haven't had my V50 for very long, but so far nothing has shown any signs of being nearly as bad, and my car has 200k miles on it and lived its entire life in the Northeast.

You could always just put a wrench on the fasteners and see if they break loose without too much difficulty. If they do, order a caliper and call it a day. If not, leave it in place and go after the bleeder.

 

[J5T]

Don't forget to used the Rockauto 5% discount coupon. Search on line for it.