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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As we all know, our keys will brake sooner than later. There are two issues here: spring mechanism (broke 4 times in 8 years, sorry but I can't stop playing with it) and small metal key ring is useless.
Here is my version of switchblade key repair / rebuild:

Parts:
Blank key, part #31253386 - $25 from Tasca. You may be able to purchase new key already cut by a dealer. Tasca will not sell you cut key.
"R" Back plate (optional), part #8666774 - $12 from Tasca.
Used key (optional) - $20 shipped on Ebay


Tools / material:
Small tweezers
Small flat & T8 screwdrivers
Dremel with #106 & #110 engraving cutters
Epoxy or silicone (I used Plastic Weld)


Before you start: if you purchased a blank key, have your local locksmith cut it for you ($35). They will not guarantee that new key will work (I had it done 4 times without a problem). But if it does not work, use this "how to" to repair your key: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=31639
If your new cut key works (unlocks the door and ignition), you are ready to do this.
Remove the back cover with small flat screwdriver and than remove the T8 screw. Now you can split the key into two parts.


Next, you will have to relocate the transponder from your old key into the new key. I use the Dremel tool with #110 cutter to do most of the work (you will have to go +/- 1/4" deep to get to it). But when I get close to the transponder, I switch to smaller #106 cutter. When you have enough material removed, use small tweezers to pull it out.
Take your time, do not brake the transponder. This little bugger is tougher than you think (I moved it 4 times now), but remember: you are working around glass.
Here is a shot with the location of the hole already cut (you can see the top of transponder):


And here it is, out of the key:


Install your old transponder into the new key and secure it with some epoxy. Do not use a lot of it, you will have to cut it out next time your key brakes. Let it set.

This part is optional.
Remote is not glued, so this part is easy. Use small flat screwdriver to take the remote apart:


This is where we use that Ebay key to get rid of that small metal key ring. You can replace every part of the remote except the board. Use your old board that is programed to unlock your car.
\

Put the remote back together and when the epoxy is dry, reassemble the key.
Here it is:
Left: old, used up key...... and Right: new and improved :)


Total for my "new" and improved key: $92
Dealers quote to replace / program "key part" of the key: $270
 

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This so awesome! Thanks a million!
 

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would this work on a s40 II?

obviously its not the exact same key but the procedure could be almost the same...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
would this work on a s40 II?

obviously its not the exact same key but the procedure could be almost the same...
I do not know. If you can find out where the transponder is located in your key, I do not see why this procedure would not work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Yeah the most difficult part is getting that transponder out of the old key and into the new from what I've seen.

I wish these keys weren't so fragile when in the open position. Sears has already jacked up my key because they click it open then leave it like that when they put it in their service bags with the paperwork...result: broken key. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah the most difficult part is getting that transponder out of the old key and into the new from what I've seen.
I did it so many times that it takes me 10 to 15 min per key. In my case, hard part was locating a locksmith that was willing to cut the new key. I had to tell the third guy that I do not care if something goes wrong, go for it.
 

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Great writeup, thanks. My second key has been broken for a long time and might get a rebuild now thanks to your post :)
 

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I did it so many times that it takes me 10 to 15 min per key. In my case, hard part was locating a locksmith that was willing to cut the new key. I had to tell the third guy that I do not care if something goes wrong, go for it.
Hmm it's tempting to just send you the two keys I have to do it for me. :p Also, your old cover looks to be in fairly good condition still...are you willing to sell it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hmm it's tempting to just send you the two keys I have to do it for me. :p Also, your old cover looks to be in fairly good condition still...are you willing to sell it?
Clip on the back of it is broken. It will stay in place until you drop your key. PM me your address and I will mail it to you.
 

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To me this begs the question: Has anyone ever just removed the transponder and epoxy'd or otherwise secured it to the steering column so that you can just use a "normal" key. After a while it would seem that the value of the car would eventually tick low enough where it would not justify such a hyper-secure (and expensive) approach to key security. I would think it would be easy to remove the cowling around the steering column to find a save and secure place to locate the transponder. You would then be back to just using a normal key.
 

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I used this method to repair my key today. Bought a cut key from the dealer for $51 and drilled out the transponder(dont need the unprogrammed one). Then cut my old key in half and carefully pried out the transponder. Dropped it in the hole and jb welded that sucker with some so ft cloth behind to keep the transponder from mpvong around as I drilled thw hole a little bigger than the transponder. Worked loke a champ.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
 

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Yes, thanks Darek as well - I have a used (near new) key coming from ebay for some transplant surgery.
 

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I used this method to repair my key today. Bought a cut key from the dealer for $51 and drilled out the transponder(dont need the unprogrammed one). Then cut my old key in half and carefully pried out the transponder. Dropped it in the hole and jb welded that sucker with some so ft cloth behind to keep the transponder from mpvong around as I drilled thw hole a little bigger than the transponder. Worked loke a champ.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Similar: I bought a cut key from the dealer for $25; used my serrated pocket knife and a hammer to split the new key (tried it on the disposable one first); same method to split the old key; swapped in the working spring mechanism from the new key; glued the old key back together and screwed it back on the remote. Worked like a charm. I have a new uncut ket remote on order ($47) and may just get it cut/programmed as a spare.
 

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Great write-up and additional info...thanks!

After reading this and several related threads 7 posts, I have a (noob) question:
Referring to the part with the key and transponder - both of mine work. If only the switchblade/flip lock is broken, is there a way to swap the blank key for my current one when I swap the transponder and avoid the cost and potential hassle of cutting the new key?
 

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Yes, just swap over the old key into the new housing at the same time - the spring mechanism is a little fiddley, but works great once you get it right.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Similar: ...same method to split the old key; swapped in the working spring mechanism from the new key; glued the old key back together...
Thanks, KCCM.
Say...would anyone happen to have a diagram/picture of this spring mechanism? I'd feel more comfortable cracking open my fob is I knew what to expect inside.
:cool:
 
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