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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
How to repair keyless entry door handle sensors

I thought I would start a new thread here to describe how to repair keyless entry door senors. The symptoms can range anywhere from intermittent locking or unlocking to a complete failure to do either. The issue is corrosion of the connector to the door handle antenna (shown in the last picture below). This is a quick procedure describing how to clean up the contacts that will get your sensors back in operation. The pictures below are for the drivers (left hand) door with the only difference being the door lock cylinder cover removal (step 1) Also remember to hold the door handle extended when backing out the screw in step 3. (I plan to add pictures of this when I can find the time)

There is a hole in the side of the door (in the door jam, step 2) that gives you to access to a Torx 20 screw. This screw locks the exterior door handle in the extended position so that it can be removed.
1. Insert the Torx screw driver and engage the screw. While holding the door handle all the way out in the extended position turn the screw counterclockwise until you feel resistance, step 3. This does two things, it holds the door handle in the extended position for you and releases the plastic cap on the end of the door handle.
2. At this point the plastic cap to the rear of the handle can be removed, step 4. Just wiggle it and pull it toward you. If it doesn't release, back that Torx screw out a little more.
3. Grap the door handle and pull toward the rear of the car and out toward you, step 5. This will unlatched the handle from the fork in the door holding it and will allow it to pivot out. Once it pivots out you will see the electrical connector to the door handle. This is the connector that needs to be cleaned, step 6.

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White Monochrome Black-and-white

After the door handle is removed by following the procedure above clean the contacts in both the door handle and the connector to it by removing the oxidation and corrosion. I used a combination of 400 grit sandpaper to clean the contacts pins on the door handle and used the tiniest jeweler's flat head screw driver to scrape the terminals inside the connector sockets. I then sprayed a product by Craig Labs called De-Oxit on both connectors to help preserve the connector surface integrity.

Then for safe measure I pumped die-electric grease into the connector to protect the contacts from further corrosion. I also pumped the grease into the back side of the connector where the wires enter to keep moisture out. I believe this is where the moisture enters. There is only a rubber gasket around the wires which doesn't seal very well.
 

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Awesome thanks !!


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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I fixed both passenger doors last year and they are still going strong. Recently I started to have problems with the driver's side doors. Touch sensors are acting flaky again so I thought I would take some pictures of how I got them working again.

Per the instructions above use a Torx 20 screwdriver and insert in the hole on the side of the door. While holding the handle extended turn the screw counter counter clockwise 5 or 6 turns, until the door handle stays extended by itself. This not only keeps the handle extended so that it can be removed it also allows the end cap or lock cylinder to be removed. If the end cap isn't coming off back that screw out some more until the cap is free.

View attachment 44297

Vehicle Car Vehicle door Automotive exterior Bumper

After the end cap or lock cylinder is removed gently pull the door handle toward the rear of the car to unlatch it from the door mechanism. You can then wiggle the hinged end out of the door. This is the connector that needs to be cleaned.

Red Automotive lighting Vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper

You can see from this photo the greenish-blue corrosion on the pins. This needs to be cleaned off.

Games Dice Nail Finger Hand

For the door handle I used a piece of 400 grit sandpaper backed by a flathead screwdriver to gently scrub both sides of all the pins.

Metal
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
For the door connector I used the finest jewelers screw driver to scrape the insides of the pins.

Red Water Vehicle Hood Automotive exterior

Once I felt the corrosion was gone I sprayed a little De-Oxit on all the terminals. This cleans the pins and protects the metal.

Floor Hardwood Wood Wood stain Table

Then I used dielectric grease on the contacts. I also pumped this stuff in the rear of the connector. I believe this is how the water is getting in. In addition I put some around the perimeter of the connector to hopefully prevent water from entering there.

Finger Hand Nail Material property Cash

Wire Electrical wiring Electronics Floor Electrical connector

Then simply reassemble by wiggling the door handle hinge side back into the door and latch the "T" hook back in it's holder. Then insert the end cap or lock cylinder and turn the screw in the side of the door clockwise until it stops, releasing the door handle back to the closed position. That's all there is to it. Takes about 15 minutes per door, depending how badly your pins are corroded.
 

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God bless you for this post, ecoDrive. However, since the dealer fixed--under warranty that I'm now out of--3 of mine that stopped working--two of which are back to non-working status--I'll assume their lifetime warranty on parts replaced by them will take care of this...maybe they should read your posts...
 

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God bless you for this post, ecoDrive. However, since the dealer fixed--under warranty that I'm now out of--3 of mine that stopped working--two of which are back to non-working status--I'll assume their lifetime warranty on parts replaced by them will take care of this...maybe they should read your posts...
X2 thanks ecodrive I'm going to try this when I get some time soon!!

Okidriver same here I wish I would have took to Volvo instead of the Volvo specialist Indy shop
Their warranty only covered a year on parts & labor

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God bless you for this post, ecoDrive. However, since the dealer fixed--under warranty that I'm now out of--3 of mine that stopped working--two of which are back to non-working status--I'll assume their lifetime warranty on parts replaced by them will take care of this...maybe they should read your posts...
The lifetime parts warranty only applies to parts you pay for. If the repairs were not paid for the lifetime parts warranty does not apply. Here's the source:

https://volvo.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/9411/
 

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Rear door handle V60 model 2013

Anyone who knows how to remove the rear door handle from a V60 model 2013? There is no hole for a T20 Torx. Do I have to remove the door trim?
Thanks in advance.
 

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God bless you for this post, ecoDrive. However, since the dealer fixed--under warranty that I'm now out of--3 of mine that stopped working--two of which are back to non-working status--I'll assume their lifetime warranty on parts replaced by them will take care of this...maybe they should read your posts...
Update. Dealer service dept wouldn't cover it (unless I forked over $600), but a nice letter to Volvo got them to goodwill it...stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Anyone who knows how to remove the rear door handle from a V60 model 2013? There is no hole for a T20 Torx. Do I have to remove the door trim?
Thanks in advance.
The hole is behind the weather striping very close to the edge of the door.
 

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I had a bitch of a time getting the "T" back in...I had to use a set of picks to pull the latch assembly forward then hold in place as I put the T back into it.
found this and another thread that led m down the right path...thank you so much, fellas...got my passenger door working again.
I bent the one corroded pin a little bit and added di-electric honda grease to the connections...
I don't mind doing this every once in a while...although adding the grease to the back would likely save it from ever happening again.

 

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Update. Dealer service dept wouldn't cover it (unless I forked over $600), but a nice letter to Volvo got them to goodwill it...stay tuned.
Update--fixed goodwill at the dealer. Even gave me a rental for half a day. Nissan Rogue...I cringed as I thought that was a Juke, but guess I got my Nissans mixed up....;)
 

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Ugh I have a question! I must have backed the screw out a bit too much or some how it shifted while putting everything back together!
Now my door will only open from the inside

Anybody have any ideas or have a diagram how to take the inside panel off


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I would take a flashlight and look into the hole...it's probably pushed back toward the inside of the car...
take your time but if I understood the design correctly...it's in a plastic channel that won't allow it to drop out entirely...
the screw must still be in there.
something is pinched and holding the handle in your case.
 

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Didn’t work for me I’m afraid, I’ve had 2 go’s at this once with contact cleaner and once with clear vinega. All 4 door won’t work started with driver door handle failing then gradually moved around the car till none would open close touching the door handles. I do get a Battery Low message most of the time so I’ve just purchased a new battery. I’m hoping/wondering if because the battery not at full power that something on The Volvo’s computer is trying to conserve battery? Anyway I’ll fit the new battery in a couple of days. I’ll report back..
 

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My passenger side is not working. I tried this cleaning procedure twice. Still not working. What are the next things to try?
 

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If you have VIDA, do a scan of the KVM for faults. Mine showed open circuits for both the antennae in the rear door handles so the car can't detect the key unless I'm standing in back, opening the trunk. I know it's the antennae because if I hold the key right up against the driver's side rear door handle in just the right spot, the car will detect the key and I can open the driver's door. So the front driver's door sensors work, but because the antenna for the driver's side rear door handle is dead, it doesn't work unless I'm literally touching the key right up against the rear door handle.

See if a similar trick works for you on your passenger side. At least it will tell you which door handle needs replacing. Cleaning the contacts on the rear handle did not get the antenna function for me.

Personally, this is something I'm living with for the moment until I decide whether I want to spend $300 on a new pair of rear door handles.
 

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I cracked open the driver front handle about 2 months ago. There was no corrosion to be found after almost 6 years in-use, but I applied a coating of DeoxIt to the contacts and packed the backside of the wiring harness plug with dielectric grease anyway. No issues with that handle since.
 

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I might need to try this. I've had my drivers rear door one to the dealer twice, and they haven't fixed it. The last time they claimed: cell phones can interfere with the keyless entry system. Yeah, OK.

The problem with mine is that the lock "button" almost never works immediately after shutting the car off, getting out, and touching the "button" as I am walking away, or after I get my kid out of the car. If the car has sat for a while and I go get something out of the car then try re-locking with that handle it will work as intended. All other handles work fine. I am thinking this may help? We shall see, the issue drives me crazy, since that button is the most convenient after parking the car and walking away.
 

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