sorry.
)
Normally I eat dinner around 6:30 and try to be in bed no later than 10... But I'm on summer break now and went to a Chinese Buffet after church, I wasn't hungry until nowDinner at 9pm? Hell I'm close to bed! Lol ima geeezerrrrr....
Again, no clue... Where's TG?? Lol
I'm no help.
That's not what I wanted to hear! What a stupid design...You are going to need a new front hub/bearing.
I can't imagine a good indy could not hook this up somehow.
Hopefully, nothing to do with fire.So what's the trick in removing the hub?
i can't believe all of this is happeneing to us. stripped lugs...Hey man, I've been there and it's extremely frustrating. It was the exact same story. . . went to the dealer, they used impact wrench, over torqued, when removing the bolts by hand very carefully two of them I just stripped off two of them and one could not be removed at all. I was very frustrated . . . anyway, long story short, if you drive carefully it should be fine for you to drive to your shop on 4 bolts. That's why they have that many, in case one or two fails.
No trick - pretty straightforward actually. You have to take the knuckle off, and the hub is press-fit into that. You need metric sockets, a good breaker bar, a BFH, and some patience. PB Blaster is always good to have if fasteners are really stuck. I wouldn't want to use a torch for most of this job, and luckily never had to go that route.So what's the trick in removing the hub?
BW - great write up. you should start a new thread with this so that it can be stickied.No trick - pretty straightforward actually. You have to take the knuckle off, and the hub is press-fit into that. You need metric sockets, a good breaker bar, a BFH, and some patience. PB Blaster is always good to have if fasteners are really stuck. I wouldn't want to use a torch for most of this job, and luckily never had to go that route.
Borrow a "front end service kit" from AutoZone, it should have the special tools required to take balljoints and tie-rod ends apart without tearing boots.
Remove your caliper (2x 15mm bolts), and rotor. Hang the caliper up with some wire or rope, I attached mine to the coil spring. This is to keep from damaging your brake line. The rotor will come off with some persuasion, it's only held on by pressure from the lug nuts. Give the centre part of the rotor a few whacks with a BFH and it should loosen. Do NOT hit the outer part of the rotor at all, do your best not to touch it so it stays clean and damage-free.
Once the rotor is off, use your balljoint/tie-rod end tools and disconnect those joints. If the boots are torn, you will have to replace the parts on re-assembly.
There's a bolt in the centre of the hub - remove it. It will want to spin with the axle, so stick a prybar between the wheel studs and use the floor as leverage to keep the wheel from turning. It's a low-torque bolt and should come out easily. Once it's out, put a long brass punch into the hole and tap it with your BFH to loosen the axle - it shouldn't be too hard. You want to keep the axle from dropping down, so tie it up to the coil spring as well - those CV joints can be damaged when they get pulled apart or overextended.
There's a cable connected to your hub - it's the ABS sensor. Disconnect it by pushing in the plastic tab and pulling the connector out.
The last step is to disconnect the bolt that holds the steering knuckle to the strut tower. It's on there tight, use a socket and a breaker bar. Once it's off you can wrestle the whole knuckle off the tower, and then worry about getting the hub pressed out. Before you walk away, make sure your axle and caliper are hung securely from the coil spring - you don't want to have to replace an axle or brake line!
When you put it all back together, put some anti-seize on the mating surfaces of the rotor, some blue Loctite on the caliper bolts, and make sure you torque everything to spec.
I don't think I missed anything but I'm going from memory here (did it last night). Good luck!
