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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had the IPD Track-Spec swaybars on my car for almost 5 years now. For the first couple years, I would need to replace the chassis bushings every year. No matter how much grease I would put in, they would dry out and wear. I know this is a common problem for most owners.

To be clear, IPD is always very helpful and sends me a new set if I call up, but replacing the bushings can be a huge pain if the rear bolts are stuck in the subframe, and the fronts are tough to do without dropping the engine cradle. So, I came up with a solution.

I simply drilled a hole in the metal bracket and threaded in a grease zerk. I tossed a little epoxy putty around the zerk to help seal and secure it. Then I drilled a corresponding hole into the bushing, and ground a path around the bar to allow the grease to flow. When I reassembled everything, I used a tiny bead of silicone between the bracket and the bushing to encourage the grease to go between the bar and the bushing. Since I did this 3 years ago, I just hit the zerks with grease every time I change the oil, and they have held up pretty well. The pics below are from the replacement of the rear bushings, as the grease was escaping between the bracket and the bushing, so they wore out. That is why I added the bead of silicone.

FYI, I used a straight zerk on the center of the rear as shown, that gives the best access. I didn't take any pics of the front, but I used a 90 degree zerk facing the wheel, mounted on the front face of the bracket. That offers the best access to a grease gun.







 

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What makes the bushings wear out quickly is rust that forms on the bars where bushings rub and strip the paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What makes the bushings wear out quickly is rust that forms on the bars where bushings rub and strip the paint.
That is a symptom, not the cause. When the grease drys out, rust can form, and I am sure that does not improve the longevity of the bushings. A well-greased interface between bushing and bar will prevent rust even if the paint is gone. If you do this mod and grease them a couple times a year, the bushings last several times longer for almost no added time or expense.
 

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And then when you do replace them you just reuse the bracket so it's a good investment of money and time
 

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I have NOT done the upgrade with the grease fittings so I've only used the IPD grease when I replace them. They use AquaLube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I use everyday automotive grease in a grease gun. It does not last as long, but you can refresh it with a jack in about 10 minutes, so I have not bothered trying to fine aqualube in grease gun tubes.
 

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The evolve/elevate brackets and bushings have grease fittings iirc, just not sure if the diameter matches with the ipd bar. This is a great writeup though. Mine start to creak after a few months and then a slathering of grease usually helps resolve it for a while.
 

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IPD bar is 28mm, IIRC the Elevate bar is 25mm.
So shave 1.5mm off the bushing all around, there is your 3mm diameter change.

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That's only if you have the VR IPD bar in the back. The SR IPD bar in the back is 25mm like the front. The neutral bar in the back is 22mm I believe
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So shave 1.5mm off the bushing all around, there is your 3mm diameter change.

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I don't know about the Elevate bushings, but the IPD bushings (and every other poly swaybar bushing I have used) has channels molded in the ID to accomodate grease. If the Elevate has those, you would have to bore out the ID 3mm and somehow recreate those channels. I would rather modify the IPD bushings, it took me about 30 minutes per and doesn't require special tools or measurements.
 

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What's the trick for getting the bolts out when they're stuck? I'll definitely be doing this mod but I have to get the d*mn things out first!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What's the trick for getting the bolts out when they're stuck? I'll definitely be doing this mod but I have to get the d*mn things out first!
I assume you mean the bolts for the rear swaybar? I insulated anything not made of metal in the immediate area, removed the nuts, and hit the area of the suspension cradle where the bolts go through for like 5 minutes with a MAPP gas torch, then got them to spin with a big impact gun on the head of the bolt. This will probably melt/ruin the existing swaybar bushings, so make sure you have replacements on hand!
 

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Bump on this old thread, I am about to do the IPD sway bar install. Is this the best solution? Anybody else have remedy for the bushings being eaten all the time as seen in so many threads on here...
 

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I don't drive my R's much but when times comes, I just replace bushings, not hard to do. One very important suggestion I have for you - Do NOT use IPD bolts for rear swaybar installation. Use original bolts. IPD ones rust like sh!t and will weld themselves to aluminum subframe and when it's time to replace rear bushings a nasty surprise will wait for you. Or if you still want to use IPD bolts, at least cover the entire length that would be inside aluminum with thick grease before installing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I don't drive my R's much but when times comes, I just replace bushings, not hard to do. One very important suggestion I have for you - Do NOT use IPD bolts for rear swaybar installation. Use original bolts. IPD ones rust like sh!t and will weld themselves to aluminum subframe and when it's time to replace rear bushings a nasty surprise will wait for you. Or if you still want to use IPD bolts, at least cover the entire length that would be inside aluminum with thick grease before installing.
Correct, absolutely do not use the IPD bolts, and still coat the factory bolts in anti-seize.

My bushings are still going strong, I just hit them every oil change. They failed every 12-24 months before I did this.
 

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Just saw this. I will be removing the iPD bolts and putting in the originals. Thanks for reviving this thread.


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