[vikila]

Hello guys,
I´m new in this forum, great pleace. I come from Polend and have a V50 2011 with halogen light and would like to change on Xenons.
I have original xenon front lamps with D1s. Now I need a ballast. What do you think is better a Hella 5dv 009 000 00 or a HID ballast?
Me other problem is how to cheat the CEM, can I use only the error cancellers like this one:
http://allegro.pl/filtr-przeciwzakloceniowy-xenon-hid-error-cancel-i3977402723.html

Is it also nesesery to use a relay with direct conection to the battery?

Please help me guys

 

[vikila]

please

 

[theshadow27]

This is a question regarding upgrading to an aftermarket HID kit: Is the DRL disable necessary or just recommended?

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...ulb-Out-Warning)-flickering-and-poor-starting

 

[theshadow27]

Thanks for the reply, but that is information overload for me. To narrow it down, what you you recommend in order to run this kit? http://www.theretrofitsource.com/hid-systems/morimoto-elite-hid-system-h11.html#.U8qGcdm9LCT

1) this is off topic - you should post your question in the thread I linked to. This thread is about using the OEM headlight assemblies.

2) there is not an easy answer. you need to understand the risks and side effects of each solution, which means RTFT.

That thread is actually broken down very simply. The information overload is in the original discussion.

 

[blvd]

Sorry for the OT post, but this was the only working link in the sticky.

Mods, feel free to delete.

 

[GermanicR]

WARNING: This modification potentially caused WMM failure after around 2 years of operation, even with DRL disable, probably due to the lack of an auxiliary additional ground point. If you follow this procedure, you MUST add a ground point by tapping or cutting the brown ground wire (pin 4 on the connector) and physically screwing it to the chassis like this - which defeats the purpose of plug-and-play

---------- Original Post -------------

If you have an 05-06 and want the new body style LED city lights, or have any year (05+) with halogens and want factory Bi-Xenons, this how-to describes how to drop in a pair of 07+ (facelift) bi-xenons. This applies to S40s and V50s, but I see no reason it shouldn't work on C30's and C70s (new) either. The process is extremely simple, though expensive, *almost* direct swap. A few drawbacks worth mentioning:
- There are possible fitment issues using the 07+ lights in the 05-06 (pre-facelift) body? Need clarification here.
- Will set you back $1600 if you get new units from the stealership
- Road following and auto-leveling won't work. Yes, I've looked, no, there is no workaround
- For direct swap with no additional parts, you MUST get DRLs disabled. If you are comfortable building a KBOWE and cracking open a headlight housing, there are much less expensive ways to retrofit bi-xenons

That said, if you've got the cash (or the time to find used parts) and don't mind loosing your DRLs, like I promised this is a super simple process - 2 steps!! (well, four if you count getting the housings and installing them in the car). It is almost impossible to detect the modification and it does not prevent the lights from being re-installed in a car that came with OEM HIDs (i.e. you can sell them w/o having to undo anything).

On to the guide!

We are going to use a piece of wire to connect pins 4 and 10 inside the housing. You'll need a piece of wire 16 gauge or higher (i.e. 16, 14, 12AWG) about 8" (20cm) long. I used brown, to match the factory wires, but color really doesn't mater.

Step 1 is to make the connection to pin 10, the low-beam ground. The best place to get this is the brown wire in the 4 pin connector that plugs into the factory ballast (the metal back cover). You can get at it by unclipping the back cover/ballast and pulling it away from the housing - no need to unplug anything. In the spirit of "super simple", I've used a 3M quick tap:

But don't let that discourage you from doing it properly (cut brown wire, use butt connector).

Step 2 is to connect your new wire to the high-beam ground (pin 4). The easiest place to make this connection is on the high-beam connector, which you can get at by removing the small twist-off circular cover on the top of the light assembly:

I pulled the QD out from the plastic holder and crimped my wire on:

Then re-installed it like so

However if you have less patience than me you can use a 3-way butt (alright) or a quick-tap (worst).

And that's it! Put the covers back on, pull your old headlights out, plug the new headlights in, and you've got a set of plug-and-play bi-xenons, with working turn signal, LED city light, side marker, and high beam flapper!

Cheers to carreragt7 for letting me borrow his headlights

Jacob

Thanks for the writeup. An in principle question. Could the dealer fully retrofit Xenons into a Halogen car or would they have the same issues you discribed. If they could, any idea what that should cost? As an alternative, how challenging would it be to get EURO halogens with leveling motors fitted into a Halogen car and then just swap the halogen bulbs for some of the new LED aftermarket bulbs that are coming out?
Cheers!

 

[theshadow27]

Thanks for the writeup. An in principle question. Could the dealer fully retrofit Xenons into a Halogen car or would they have the same issues you discribed. If they could, any idea what that should cost? As an alternative, how challenging would it be to get EURO halogens with leveling motors fitted into a Halogen car and then just swap the halogens for some of the new LED aftermarkets that are coming out?
Cheers!

I did ask the dealership about this before I started any of my HID projects.

Basically, you are looking at least $5k in parts and at least that in labor.

You would need to buy the following, at a minimum:
- L&R headlight assembly (~$800 ea IIRC)
- L&R GDL modules (~$450 ea IIRC)
- Engine bay harness (~$600)
- Leveling sensors, 4x (~$300 ea)
- Rear vehicle harness (~$700)
- CEM Reflash - they wouldn't even tell me how much this would cost, as they would have to do some shiesty work to convince Volvo to send them the correct software (it's normally tied to the VIN)
and that's just the big stuff

Then, they would basically have to rip out the entire car, replace all the harnesses, and put it back together. That's 40+ hours of labor. Not to mention there is no "everything harness replacement procedure" in VIDA, so it might take longer...

For me, I was not willing to lay down $10k+ for HIDs (would have probably done $2k though, lol)

Euro Halogens or Bi-Xenon, you still need the leveling sensors which requires the engine and rear/interior main harness.

At the end of the day, impractical. Sucks

 

[GermanicR]

I did ask the dealership about this before I started any of my HID projects.

Basically, you are looking at least $5k in parts and at least that in labor.

You would need to buy the following, at a minimum:
- L&R headlight assembly (~$800 ea IIRC)
- L&R GDL modules (~$450 ea IIRC)
- Engine bay harness (~$600)
- Leveling sensors, 4x (~$300 ea)
- Rear vehicle harness (~$700)
- CEM Reflash - they wouldn't even tell me how much this would cost, as they would have to do some shiesty work to convince Volvo to send them the correct software (it's normally tied to the VIN)
and that's just the big stuff

Then, they would basically have to rip out the entire car, replace all the harnesses, and put it back together. That's 40+ hours of labor. Not to mention there is no "everything harness replacement procedure" in VIDA, so it might take longer...

For me, I was not willing to lay down $10k+ for HIDs (would have probably done $2k though, lol)

Euro Halogens or Bi-Xenon, you still need the leveling sensors which requires the engine and rear/interior main harness.

At the end of the day, impractical. Sucks

That sucks, so basically I made a mistake not buying a car with Xenons because I won't be able to take it back to the EU in a couple of years without a 10k retrofit.... damnation..... well that puts a crimp on my plans to make any major mods to the car if I can't drive it in the EU after we go home.... I miss the old days when I had my Jetta GLI... retrofitting the EU Xenons in those was super easy.....

 

[torro]

A budget solution to get the OEM Bi-Xenon headlamps with D2S bulbs to AMP wired ballast.

Follow the instructions and short the brown and black/purple wire and you will get full Bi-Xenon function at a much preferable cost.

 

[Oo.et.oO]

anyone have part numbers for the oem assemblies and/or sources for USA and euro assemblies?
also, is there a thread on this for P2 cars?
thanks!

answer some of my own questions with a lot of research.
http://www.swedishautoparts.com/S40/Volvo-S40-lights-&-lenses.html
has some assemblies.
30744679 driver's
30744680 passenger

but they are non-black bezel! :nono:

 

[alyn-acn]

Does anyone have the diagram of the headlamp connector for an 09' S40??
I want to know what does each wire!
Thanks!

 

[jondevieonS40]

SwedeSpeed P1 (C30, S40, V50, C70) HID Retrofit Index

1. SKBOWE Plug-and-Play harness for P1 HID conversion
2. Background info, general questions, and share your HID setup
3. KBOWE How-To (Original 2009 Version) build your own PWM filter
4. Original 2009 investigation and technical discussion on S40 HID issues
5. ForceFed's E46 D2S Bi-Xenon Projector Retrofit guide
6. Rewire OEM Bi-Xenon headlights to work on the halogen harness (you are here)
7. DRL Disable Alone not enough for safe Aftermarket HID retrofits

WARNING: This modification caused WMM failure after around 2 years of operation even with DRL disable - as we found out later DRL disable does not actually disable PWM - and the lack of an auxiliary additional ground point.

If you are able to build your own mini KBOWE it is still possible to do this swap, but you MUST use a full 30,000uF+ capacitor PWM filter AND add a ground point by tapping or cutting the brown ground wire (pin 4 on the connector) and physically screwing it to the chassis like this - defeating the purpose of a plug-and-play If you put the KBOWE inside of the headlight housing (to keep it looking stock) the capacitors will run warm so get high quality 35V 105C 5000hr caps only! I'd be glad to help with it - just drop me a PM.

That said, this is technically the only street legal (DOT approved) HID retrofit for P1 cars.

---------- Original Post -------------

If you have an 05-06 and want the new body style LED city lights, or have any year (05+) with halogens and want factory Bi-Xenons, this how-to describes how to drop in a pair of 07+ (facelift) bi-xenons. This applies to S40s and V50s, but I see no reason it shouldn't work on C30's and C70s (new) either. The process is extremely simple, though expensive, *almost* direct swap. A few drawbacks worth mentioning:
- There are possible fitment issues using the 07+ lights in the 05-06 (pre-facelift) body? Need clarification here.
- Will set you back $1600 if you get new units from the stealership
- Road following and auto-leveling won't work. Yes, I've looked, no, there is no workaround
- For direct swap with no additional parts, you MUST get DRLs disabled. If you are comfortable building a KBOWE and cracking open a headlight housing, there are much less expensive ways to retrofit bi-xenons

That said, if you've got the cash (or the time to find used parts) and don't mind loosing your DRLs, like I promised this is a super simple process - 2 steps!! (well, four if you count getting the housings and installing them in the car). It is almost impossible to detect the modification and it does not prevent the lights from being re-installed in a car that came with OEM HIDs (i.e. you can sell them w/o having to undo anything).

On to the guide!

We are going to use a piece of wire to connect pins 4 and 10 inside the housing. You'll need a piece of wire 16 gauge or higher (i.e. 16, 14, 12AWG) about 8" (20cm) long. I used brown, to match the factory wires, but color really doesn't mater.

Step 1 is to make the connection to pin 10, the low-beam ground. The best place to get this is the brown wire in the 4 pin connector that plugs into the factory ballast (the metal back cover). You can get at it by unclipping the back cover/ballast and pulling it away from the housing - no need to unplug anything. In the spirit of "super simple", I've used a 3M quick tap:

But don't let that discourage you from doing it properly (cut brown wire, use butt connector).

Step 2 is to connect your new wire to the high-beam ground (pin 4). The easiest place to make this connection is on the high-beam connector, which you can get at by removing the small twist-off circular cover on the top of the light assembly:

I pulled the QD out from the plastic holder and crimped my wire on:

Then re-installed it like so

However if you have less patience than me you can use a 3-way butt (alright) or a quick-tap (worst).

And that's it! Put the covers back on, pull your old headlights out, plug the new headlights in, and you've got a set of plug-and-play bi-xenons, with working turn signal, LED city light, side marker, and high beam flapper!

Cheers to carreragt7 for letting me borrow his headlights

Jacob

Do you know if i could take factory d2 HID from a pre-facelift and retrofit them into a post-facelift holegen housing? Is PMW still an issue even with your SKBOWE harnesses installed?