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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It is my attempt to make this a pictorial on how to change the spark plugs on your R.

First things first. Tools you will need:

1) Flat head screw driver
2) Torx 20 bit
3) 10 mm wrench and/or 10 mm ratchet socket
4) Safety wrench size 4
5) 3/4 inch spark plug socket w/ rubber grabber on the inside
6) 5-10 inch extender
7) Ratchet



Next thing you need to do is remove the over the engine (OTE) pipe. Start by loosening the screw on the front side of the pipe.



Then remove the torx screw



Then remove the 10 mm bolt



Next start to work on the clamp on the turbo side of the OTE pipe. This is where you will need a flash light to see what you are doing unless you have a very well light garage.



Once the clamp is loose enough you can swing the bolt off and the clamp will become loose. Do not loosen until the screw comes off!



Wiggle the OTE pipe off. Takes a little force, not much though.

Next get to work on the several screws that hold the blue plastic pieces down. Note: You may have to remove the cross bar.



Once all eight screws are removed pull up on the tab on the front left of the engine.



Then pull the tab off of the back part.



I pulled off the silver plastic piece covering the fuel rail so I could clean everything. It is really dirty. http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif

Exposed engine. (Yes that is oil. My mechanic forgot to tighten the oil cap and I had some oil spill out. Will be cleaned up during this project.)



On the engine you will now see all five spark plug cylinder sockets. To remove the rubber part you have one 10 mm bolt that needs to be unscrewed.



Then remove the plug on the boot.



Then firmly pull up on the rubber piece. You will hear a popping sound when it releases.



Then use your spark plug socket and firmly remove the spark plug. My dirty plug http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif



Insert the new spark plug and tighten. Here are the factory specs thanks to blot.

Spark plugs
P/N272313-8 or equivalent
- Gap 0.028- 0.032 in. 0.7-0.8 mm
- Tightening torque 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm)

Reverse the process to put everything back on.

You also may want to consider some of the boot protector gel to keep those boots sealed. I will probably come back and modify this later. Hope this helps someone out in the future.

http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

Modified by Rangeball at 10:54 PM 4-16-2007
 

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Re: How to change your spark plugs (RearWheelPaul)

Quote, originally posted by RearWheelPaul »
Great post and nice clean engine!

Agreed! Now this is the type of great stuff that belongs in this forum..... now it is time for a poll on which plug you replace first in the process
J/K!

Nice job Will!
 

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Good write up.

I am dumbfounded at just how clean your engine is!

Also, it's good practice, although doesn't seem to be a problem on the R's to shoot some compressed air down the head before you remove the spark plug to remove anything that may have worked it's way in there. That way it wont end up inside the cylinder. Like I said, it doesn't seem to apply to the R but it is a good habit to develop.

Plus it wont hurt either to throw some anti-seize grease on the threads and like you said some di-electric grease on the nipple.

P.S. "5) 1/4 inch spark plug socket w/ rubber grabber on the inside" Think that should read 3/4"
 

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Re: (ibanezplayer)

Good points. If you use anti-seize compound, just back-off on the torque by a few foot pounds. Volvo's specs are for "dry" plugs. Lubricant will allow the plug to turn an additional 1/2 to 1 full turn before the torque spec is reached. This places some unneeded strain on the head threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: (ibanezplayer)

Quote, originally posted by ibanezplayer »
Good write up.
P.S. "5) 1/4 inch spark plug socket w/ rubber grabber on the inside" Think that should read 3/4"

Whoops! Thanks for catching that. I will update that immediately.

Thanks all for the comments. It was actually pretty fun. The hard part was remembering to take the pictures.


On another note I noticed a fair amount of oil in the OTE pipe. I am pretty sure this is normal though, right?



 

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Re: How to change your spark plugs (AaronSoto)

Just curious - how long does this process typically take you? Just for grins, I'd like to compare it to the time it used to take me to change 'em on my 122S'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: (speedemon)

Quote, originally posted by speedemon »
Hey, while you had the OTE pipe off, should've done this


http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=55105 http://********************/smile/emthup.gif http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

Since I have the wrong spark plugs I still have the OTE pipe off. I do have a dremel but it is the hand held one. Think that will suffice or should I find more professional help. I am not the best when it comes to dremel'ing. You should see my "R" Kelly CAI intake install.


Quote, originally posted by dradernh »
Just curious - how long does this process typically take you? Just for grins, I'd like to compare it to the time it used to take me to change 'em on my 122S'.

Good point, it took me around an hour to get everything off. This however did include stopping to taking pictures and a 15 mintues session to have dessert that my fiance prepared. I would say it will take about 30 minutes to put it back together now that I know exactly how to do this. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

To follow up on my previous question, oil in the OTE pipe is normal?
 

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Re: (Rangeball)

Quote, originally posted by Rangeball »
Since I have the wrong spark plugs I still have the OTE pipe off.
Since you've got things opened up, I would suggest doing a compression test. It's easy. You can buy a gauge at any auto parts store.

There is a known problem with intake valves on some of these cars. See the TNN list. I don't know if your car is included in the suspect population, but it couldn't hurt.

I did it on my car and found one cylinder to have half the compression of the other four. Brought it to the dealer and got 20 new intake valves (covered under warranty).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: (Dyno)

That is a good idea. I will pick one up today. Can I leave the OTE pipe off or should I put it back on for the test?

Edit-
Doing some research on how to do a compression test and I still have some questions.

1) Do I remove all of the spark plugs or just for the cylinder I am testing?
2) Do I start the engine?
a) If so idle or throttle?

Thanks


Edit again. Appropriate directions? Pulled from an Talon website.

1. Before you begin, make sure the battery is fully charged. Take it for a good hard drive. 5 minutes of idling won't cut it.

2. Pull the MPI (MultiPort Injection) fuse on the positive terminal of your battery. This cuts power to the injectors so they don't spray gas all over the place. Does this apply?

3. Unplug the coil connector, it's on the right side, at the back of the block. You could get a nasty shock if you don't.

4. Remove all 4 plugs and examine them carefully for signs of a problem. If your valve seals are bad in any cylinder, the plug will be fouled to some degree. Signs of oil on the plugs could indicate a ring problem.

5. Screw the compression gauge into the plug hole

6. Press the gas pedal to the floor to open the throttle plate, and keep it at WOT (wide open throttle) for as long as you're cranking (if you didn't pull the MPI fuse, there would be a bit of a mess, now).

7. Turn the ignition to the ON position, and hold it there for a count of four revolutions (do not turn the key on-and-off four times). On each rotation, the gauge needle will jump slightly less than the previous one.

Note: It may take more than 4 revolutions to get a stable reading; crank for up to 10 seconds or until the needle stabilizes, whichever comes first.

Note: If your battery is weak, the engine will turn over slower and give you lower readings.

8. The last number the gauge jumps to is the compression for that cylinder.

9. Repeat for each cylinder.

Modified by Rangeball at 9:37 AM 4-17-2007
 

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Re: (Rangeball)

You need to put anti-seeze compound on the threads of the plugs before you put them back in. It prevents the metal in the plug from bonding to the aluminum in the heads. Prevents possibly stripping the threads.
 

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Re: How to change your spark plugs (Rangeball)

Excellent thread!

While you're installing your new plugs, you may want to consider aligning them (spark plug gap) towards the intake valves for a cleaner burn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: How to change your spark plugs (blot)

Quote, originally posted by blot »
Excellent thread!

While you're installing your new plugs, you may want to consider aligning them (spark plug gap) towards the intake valves for a cleaner burn.

Thanks Blot,

So have the metal piece (I forget the name) pointing towards the front of the vehicle?
 

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Re: How to change your spark plugs (Rangeball)

The intake valves are in front, so you'd want to expose the spark to it... i.e. the spark gap facing forward and not the metal 'spine'...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: How to change your spark plugs (blot)

Quote, originally posted by blot »
The intake valves are in front, so you'd want to expose the spark to it... i.e. the spark gap facing forward and not the metal 'spine'...

that is what I meant. Thanks blot. Lots of fun things to do tonight.
 
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