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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Post #1000. Woohoo! OK, celebration over.:beer:

After starting this thread: Linky: Please-help-diagnose-grinding-noise-from-rear-axle-area-(video), the consensus was bad wheel bearing. I also had two faults displayed on the message center:

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After reading many, many threads, I pieced together the knowledge shared by many. Here are some of those threads:
1. linky: For-all-you-hub-rear-wheel-bearing-lovers
2. linky: How-to-Install-a-rear-wheel-bearing

Here goes.

Tools:
- Metric socket set. Standard and deep depth. 3" extension.
- Small persuader (sledge hammer), e.g. 3 lb.
- Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer.
- Cold chisel.
- Jack stand(s).
- Hydraulic jack.
- PB Blaster.
- Patience.
- Heated garage (optional, but rather helpful in the cold weather).
- Loud music.
- Heavy duty nitrile gloves (mine are 6 mil) - keeps the hands cleaner.

Parts:
- Rear wheel bearing (hub) 31340690 - I obtained my OE from the dealer parts department.
- Splash shield kit - included with bearing.
- Technical Journal TJ25167 (Sept 2011) P2 Rear Hub Bearing Splash Shield Instructions
- Brake shoe kit - 31262869 because my shoes started to delaminate.
- Wheel speed sensor - 30773743 because my sensor was broken from excess movement in bearing.
- Parking brake springs - because I was replacing the shoes.
- return spring 3546028-6
- retaining spring 30645831
- return spring 9173601-7​
Here is the Technical Journal (5 pages).
PG01


PG02


Notice the orientation of the "teeth" on the inner diameter of the shield, and the pointy protrusions on the inboard edge of the shield.
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PG04


PG05



And now the pic-by-pic instructions.

Remove axle bolt. Jack up car. I supported mine on jack stand because I would later use the hydraulic jack to lift the rear lower control arm.
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Remove caliper (2 bolts) and rotor (1 screw on rotor hat).

Remove axle bolt. I forgot to remove mine before jacking up car, so I put the lug wrench under the lug bolt (to prevent hub from spinning) and tapped on the socket wrench handle with a rubber mallet to simulate an impact wrench. If I had an impact wrench, I would have used that.

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View of my axle with axle bolt removed. Thankfully no rust on the splines. That meant my hub was not seized to the axle. Phew!
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Loosen the four hub bolts from the inboard side. The dark fluid is the PB Blaster I applied to the bolts the night before. I struck the end of the wrench handle with a rubber mallet to break the bolts free so I didn't smash my knuckles. No particular order. I just numbered them for the sake of numbering them. It is not necessary to remove the parking brake shoes or rotor's steel splash shield. My wheel speed sensor was broken away from its mounting bolt, so I removed the sensor to get it out of the way.
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The fourth bolt (lower, rear position) is partially blocked by the rear lower control arm. Many threads suggested various ways around it (box end wrench, 6" extension, etc.). I jacked up the rear lower control arm until the car was just about to lift up off the jack stand, e.g. the rear suspension was at is rest state as if setting on the ground with the wheel on.
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I could reach the bolt head with the wrench and loosen it by hand without a breaker bar. I was only able to loosen it one click at a time with the ratchet. Once loosened several clicks, I could back out the bolt the remaining threads by hand. An no bloody knuckles!
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Now the fun part, removing the old bearing (hub). I tried various forms of persuasion, including hammers up to and including a 3 lb. sledgehammer. As I was beating on the bearing, some of the old, broken bearing were falling out and the splash shields worked themselves free. What finally worked was to use a cold chisel as shown, here with blows in the clockwise direction.
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And counterclockwise direction. I wasn't worried about destroying the threads in the bearing, or the ID of the holes in the knuckle because the chisel didn't come close to the knuckle.
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After working the bearing in both directions, I inserted a pry bar between the bearing and knuckle like this. I used a hammer to wedge the pry bar in slightly, working my way around the bearing so as to not get the bearing cockeyed too much within the knuckle. I did manage to knick the paint slightly on the brake splash shield, so I touched it up with spray paint. Once the bearing separated from the knuckle about 1.5 mm outboard, I was able to wiggle it the rest of the way out by hand.
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Here are several photos of the carnage. Ugh.

The rings should not look like that!
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Here are the steps to putting it back together with the new plastic splash shields described in the Technical Journal.

Two views of small plastic ring that fits on driveshaft. Pay attention to the orientation of the pointy protrusions per page 3 of the Technical Journal.
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
General overview of splash shield that fits within knuckle.
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020


Inboard view with splash shield installed without cutting the tab off.
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Outboard view with splash shield installed without cutting tab off.
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Front view with splash shield installed without cutting tab off.
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Now that you understand how it doesn't fit if the tab is not removed, here are details on the correct installation. The mounting tab on splash shield fits between wheel speed sensor bolt and knuckle.
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Green rubber seal greased and ready to install.
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Although not necessary, I hand started each of the four bolts to ensure they started OK, before fully tightening them. Similar thought pattern as tightening lug bolts properly in a star pattern.
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So there you go. Depending on how stubborn the old bearing is seized to the knuckle, it is relatively easy. Rough estimate for time: 45 - 90 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Replacing rear wheel speed sensor.

Replacing rear wheel speed sensor; passenger side in my case. The interior photos under the rear seat and in the boot are from my V70 R. Those with a S60 R might differ. I can sit on my knees while working in the boot and not have to contort my body and stretch as you might have to do in a S60.

My bearing had worn enough to allow the wheel to move sufficiently to break the wheel speed sensor off the mounting flange.


If you follow the sensor's wire from just above and outboard of the CV joint, it snakes its way above the fuel tank, seemingly into oblivion. However, it goes into the cabin under the rear seatback, through the circular cover. Here are step-by-step photos.

Remove the LATCH anchor (ISO Fix) stamping/rod assembly by loosening the two nuts. The wheel speed sensor wire is the black one.
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Wheel speed sensor connects to the wire harness at the outboard side under the rear lower seat cushion. Green connector.
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Follow sensor wire to the access panel (round stamping). Remove the two nuts; two more accessible from boot. Unclip the wire from clasp holding it in place; another one is accessible from the boot.
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Closeup of clip.


Remove two nuts from inside boot.
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Cover plate removed. I wrote "B" for back, to indicate the correct orientation for installation later.
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In-cabin view of cover plate removed.
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Unclip #2 to remove old sensor wire. Wire fits though slit/hole in rubber gasket.
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Back in the wheelhouse, I taped the green connector of the new sensor wire to the old sensor. Then pull the new wire through the access hole above the fuel tank.
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Reconnect the green connector, and put the interior back together. Reinstall the sensor into the knuckle. Put the rear brakes back together, re-install the wheels, and viola! No more error codes.










My parking brake shoes were starting to delaminate (approx. 25 mm), so I replaced the shoes and the springs. When I picked up the parts, the service manager said a recent customer had a parking brake shoe delaminate. Rather than fixing it immediately, the customer drove around for some time. The repair bill was close to $3000, which included new bearing, rotor, knuckle, etc. Ugh!
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Wow man, that is a very informative write up! Thank you for taking the time to do this. Sticky please.
 

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Great writeup as always Melvin! You had the same exact problem I did on my R as well with the "Anti-Skid Temporarily off" & "Anti-Skid Service Required"
 

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Awesome write up Melvin!
I like how you referenced other threads as well.

As BlazinBob mentioned...This needs to be added to the shortcut sticky.
Hopefully GiRaff3 will add it to the technical section for safe keeping.

Cheers!
 

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This is a great post and a perfect example of what makes this forum such an excellent resource for all of us aspiring DIYers. Cheers :beer: :thumbup:
 

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Awesome post :thumbup:

I have asked Chris to add it the R Forum FAQ.
 

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I have these same messages. So it's def a wheel bearing? My front right side makes a weird noise like a loose strut when I hit bump, that's prolly it. I just haven't had time to jack the car up and look around. Hopefully it's just the bearing. When the message pops up, feels like my abs is more touchy. Like as in if I'm trying to stop slowly at a stop sign, the abs kicks on even if I feather on the brakes. Feels like I'm on ice when I'm really on solid asphalt.
 

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Very nice write up. Now I am wondering if I should have gone OEM. I know I did not install a plastic ring or the plastic splash shield. See pics in my sig. I guess it pays to have the techincal journal. How does one know of an update like this? How did you get this info?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
How does one know of an update like this? How did you get this info?
Ari,

I found out the hard way: When I picked up the bearing, it came as a kit with the plastic rings and grease. Thinking I could figure it out (insert male comment here :D), I didn't think to ask for instructions at the time and figured it would be intuitive to install. It was intuitive, except when it came to the tab. It was in the way from the splash shield sitting flush inside the knuckle, as I felt it should. I didn't want to just cut it off without verifying with Volvo. When I inquired, the technician printed the Technical Journal and handed it to me. To simplify things, I think that part could have been molded without the tab.

Lesson learned: when the parts guy hands me a kit that includes parts I don't expect or didn't remove when I disassemble the car, ask for instructions. It might save a trip back to the parts department and/or frustration.

Another way to answer your questions: an awesome forum like this one...:thumbup:

Cheers,
Melvin
 

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Great write up!
 

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thats for the write up. This is something I hope I never have to do.
 

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o.. and congrats on 1000 posts!

you win the best 1000 post thread ever
 

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Annnnd its been sticky'd. Thanks Chris :thumbup:
 

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Thanks for taking all the time to take the pictures and then write up this great How To post.
It's always such a pain to clean up, take a picture, then go back to it, clean up, take a picture, etc.
 

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AWESOME!!! Thank you so much for the tutorial. I changed my wheel bearing out several weeks ago and only had the guts to tackle it because of your photos and description.

Warning to anybody else. The rear hubs now come as a Right and a Left due to that plastic insert peice being directional. Part numbers are different for the two sides - since this is a new change your part supplier may mess it up (...mine did....), so probably best if you know the part numbers to double check:
RIGHT rear hub: 31340690
LEFT rear hub: 31340689

Thanks again!
 

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Any way to get pics reposted?
 
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