SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 92 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently changed bulbs in my R. I chose PIAA Plasma Ion Yellow (2500K) for the foglamps (H3) and HID bulbs (D2R) from Link: DDM Tuning. I tried both 5000K and 6000K since they are so inexpensive, $12/50 per pair.

Below are how-to photos along with, and perhaps more useful, before/after photos comparing the various color temperature bulbs. Fog lamps are first, followed by headlamps. In each photo of the beam pattern/output, I recorded the camera settings for reference. I set the camera's color temperature at 5000K. For comparison, early afternoon daylight is about 5000K, typical noon daylight is about 5500K, and overcast sky is about 6000K.

Each indoor photo was the head/fog lamps shining on my garage door (painted white). Outdoor photos were either looking directly at the head/fog lamps or onto lawns with freshly fallen snow. I was interested more in the color difference and relative output/brightness between the OE bulbs and the aftermarket bulbs. Changing the bulbs usually doesn't affect the output (lumens) for a given wattage. Increased wattage would result in increased output, but at the possible expense of melted components (e.g. wires or bulb housings).

Anyway, here's some information you may find useful.

Cheers,
Melvin

FOG LAMPS

Foglamps can be reached/seen under the air dam without removing any body parts. Because the front end is low, I parked the front wheels on ramps to lift the front end.

Disconnect the wire harness by pressing on small plastic clip. Pull rearward on connector, perhaps with a little wiggle.
02
02

Twist the cap (CCW approx 10-15 degrees) to remove it. Room is a bit tight and there are many sharp plastic corners that would love to eat the skin off your knuckles, so I wore thin, leather gloves. The caps were rather tight on mine (probably first time they have been removed), but they did twist off eventually by hand. See the alignment screw for aiming lamps when job is done.
03


Once the cap is off, disconnect the wires to the bulb. Connectors are simple blade-type that require just a gentle tug/wiggle.
04


Unhook the spring clips holding the bulb in place in the socket.
05


Swing the spring clips out of the way. Remove old bulb, noting where the notch in the flange is orientated.
06


Insert the new bulb (be careful not to touch the glass bulb with bare fingertips). The fingertip oils can etch the glass and cause premature bulb failure. Reverse the steps to connect and close the cap. Aim lamps as necessary.

Here is the difference between the OE and PIAA bulbs.
07


08


09








Headlamps

I disconnected this wire harness to provide more room to reach the back of the headlamps.
11


The I detached the connector from the steel cross member (radiator support). You can see the sharp teeth that hold it in place. I gently pried it away using a small, flat screwdriver.
12


Twist (approx 10-20 degrees) the cap off the rear of the headlamp. This is the passenger side, looking down inside the engine compartment.
13


Once the cap is removed, unhook the two spring clips.
14


Twist (again, approx 10-20 degrees) the bulb holder. Then pull the bulb holder directly rearward (in car position).
15


Remove the bulb from the bulb holder by twisting base of bulb. Again, be careful not to touch the glass with bare fingers if you wish to save the bulb. I saved them in case one of the new bulb unexpectedly burns out and I have a replacement on the shelf at home.
16


Notice how the bulb's nubs fit into the bulb holder.
17


When installing the new bulb, I found it easier to install the new bulb into the socket (headlamp housing) first, then install the bulb holder:
A) Align the notch in the bulb base to the emboss in the socket. The replacement bulb has additional notches in the base; the rectangular notch fits over the emboss in the socket.
B) Insert the bulb holder into socket. Holder will be slightly angled so the notches in bulb holder align with nubs on bulb base.
C) Once bulb holder inserted and nubs engaged, twist holder clockwise to lock bulb into bulb holder. In correctly installed position, the wires coming out of the bulb holder point down.
18


Re-hook the spring clips. Attach cap, wire harness, etc.

Here are photos of the differences. The photos should be self explanatory. In summary, I installed the 5000K bulb in one headlamp, then took some photos to compare OE to 5000K. Then I installed a 6000K bulb in the other headlamp and took some more photos to compare 5000K to 6000K.

My personal preference is the 6000K bulb, but these photos are to help you choose your preference. 6000K has a slight bluish tint, but more importantly, objects in the dark seem to be illuminated better. Road signs seem to glow in the dark, as they visually "pop" out of the darkness. I live on a rural, county road. Hitting a deer is always a threat, so improvements are most welcome. Long ago, I also aimed my headlamps a little higher and more outboard than from the factory. I rarely, rarely get flashed by other motorists at night as if I had my high beams on.

Anyway, on to the photos. Again, all were shot with the camera's color temperature setting at 5000K. Notice the greenish light "leaking" just below the passenger side beam. It was that way with the old bulbs and that way with the new bulb. I don't know why, but that will be the topic of another thread.
19

______________________________________________________________________________

20


______________________________________________________________________________

21

______________________________________________________________________________

22


______________________________________________________________________________

23

______________________________________________________________________________

24

______________________________________________________________________________

25

______________________________________________________________________________

26

______________________________________________________________________________

27







Old vs new bulb. Notice the cloudiness of the old bulb.
10


09
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,269 Posts
excellent!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,628 Posts
Well, that's how you change a light bulb.

P.S. nice write up and comparison pics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,480 Posts
Now that is a How-To. Nice job, Melvin. Excellent presentation.
Scott
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,199 Posts
So did you decide on the 5k or 6k's?
If anyone is looking for another online vendor, I used SharpeHID and they were great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
At first, I was hesitant to publish a how-to on changing bulbs. You know, the whole "if you can't change a bulb, you shouldn't be working on your car" type discussion. This is the first car I have owned with HID headlamps. I have seen the warnings about the dangers of the high voltage systems. I am NOT an electrical guy. So, since I was changing the bulb, I thought I would document and publish it. There may be some other owneRs in the same boat and this shows that it is just as easy as normal bulbs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
My personal preference is the 6000K bulb, but these photos are to help you choose your preference. 6000K has a slight bluish tint, but more importantly, objects in the dark seem to be illuminated better. Road signs seem to glow in the dark, as they visually "pop" out of the darkness. I live on a rural, county road. Hitting a deer is always a threat, so improvements are most welcome. Long ago, I also aimed my headlamps a little higher and more outboard than from the factory. I rarely, rarely get flashed by other motorists at night as if I had my high beams on.
So did you decide on the 5k or 6k's?
I chose to go with the 6000K. In addition to what I described above, the slight bluish appearance to the headlamp along with the yellow fog lamps just look cool and distinctive. :cool: It is just enough blue to be blue without looking so blue that it screams aftermarket blue HID wannabe. I see so many cars that put blue bulbs in their normal halogen headlamps that it looks fake and ridiculous.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,964 Posts
FANTASTIC easy DIY explanations and pics - thanks for taking the time to document and explain for all of us! This was done on your 2006 VR, correct? Were the fogs and headlights the same wattage as OEM?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,266 Posts
Very well done, thanks for posting this . This should be a sticky as well as be part of GiRaff3's project.

there was a guy a while back that fracked up his headlights trying to install bulbs that really could have used this thread
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
FANTASTIC easy DIY explanations and pics - thanks for taking the time to document and explain for all of us! This was done on your 2006 VR, correct? Were the fogs and headlights the same wattage as OEM?
Correct, this was done on my V70 R.

Fog lamp bulbs are rated 55W. And I should thank Evan (Evos_R). After see his fabulous photos of his R with 3000K fog lamps, I finalized my decision to go with these bulbs/color.

The headlamp bulbs do not have wattage rating written on the packaging, DDM's website, or the bulb/base. Seeing that the output is virtually identical to OE bulbs leads me to believe they are the same as wattage as OE.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,964 Posts
So 55w fogs won't overdue the wiring harness or fuse for a 35w fog? I thought I read somewhere that folks were having a hard time w/55w fogs...I could be mistaken.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
956 Posts
Wow great write up!! I have a passenger side fog light that droops down and to the left... I have been wanting to change the lights and fix the droop... was thinking of getting the clear assemblies off ebay, but do i have to take the front bumber off to make the switch for the housing assembly?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
It looks like your high beam is a bad joke compared to what we have here in Europe. They should deliver all cars with the same light imo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
So 55w fogs won't overdue the wiring harness or fuse for a 35w fog? I thought I read somewhere that folks were having a hard time w/55w fogs...I could be mistaken.
The fog lamp bulbs I removed are rated at 55W (12V) also; here is a photo of the base of it. Since I purchased my car used, I would assume they are OE bulbs. Plus the owner's manual states the replacement bulb is 55W H3.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,389 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It looks like your high beam is a bad joke compared to what we have here in Europe. They should deliver all cars with the same light imo.
It is a bad joke. And North American R owners are not laughing either. :mad: Here is a video of high beams in action. Yes, the low beam reflector just moves up. We certainly wish we had the same high beam setup as you in Europe. Much to the jealousy of many, some North American owners have converted theirs to European spec headlamps, but at a substantial cost.

For North America, the high beam has been converted to a Daytime Running Light (DRL)

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,628 Posts
It is a bad joke. And North American R owners are not laughing either. :mad: Here is a video of high beams in action. Yes, the low beam reflector just moves up. We certainly wish we had the same high beam setup as you in Europe. Much to the jealousy of many, some North American owners have converted theirs to European spec headlamps, but at a substantial cost.

For North America, the high beam has been converted to a Daytime Running Light (DRL)
That's why I got me some E-Codes from across the pond
 
1 - 20 of 92 Posts
Top