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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As noted in
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?218343-first-oil-change&p=2407515#post2407515,
here is the How-To write up as promised. I believe it will also work for the T5e.
I wanted to do this first extra oil change at 5K miles, but ran out of time before our trip to Ohio. So i did it after we returned to MA at 6425 miles.

For this engine, the manual recommends a special 0W20 Castrol Edge Professional synthetic, but dealers don't have it, nor can I find it anywhere in the US or at a reasonable price. Dealers buy 5W30 Castrol Edge Professional synthetic in drums and use it in all Volvo engines. I found 6 liters on eBay. Mobil 1 0W30 would have been my second choice. There are more details on oil choice in:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?216683-Drive-E-Engine-Oil

The Volvo plastic filter housing will need a 16-flute 86mm end-cap socket. Neither Autozone, NAPA, nor CAP has this size, but I found several alternatives on line, then ended up ordering a 3/8" drive Lisle 61660 86mm 16-Flute End Cap Wrench, which had all 5 star reviews on Amazon. This size seems to be used by Volvo and BMW. You can see it at left in this picture, which also shows the extra housing, 2 filter elements, 2 magnetic drain plugs, and numerous crush washers from eEuroparts.
[/URL]OC1 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]

First, put on the ebrake, chock a rear wheel, and follow your manual to find the front jack points. I used a floor jack and jack stands for safety. About 6" high is enough. You may also prefer ramps or be fortunate enough to have a lift or are thin enough to do this on an XC60 without jacking it up at all. Remove the 8 T30 screws that hold the bottom cover and undo the clips at left and right, then move the cover out of your way.

I was pleased to find neither engine nor transaxle leaks, while the steering, ball joint, and CV joints boots were clean and dry. Here is a view looking up at the front of the pan, with filter housing at left, oil-to-liquid cooler at center, and what must be the oil level sensor cable below it.
[/URL]OC2 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]

Here, you can see the air pipe to the intercooler at center and transmission oil-to-liquid cooler at right.
[/URL]OC3 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]

While under there with my phone, I thought some may be interested in other views. Here is the turbo
[/URL]OC5 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]

And I think this is the CAT..note that it has supplier company names on the label. I was disappointed in not being able to see the supercharger, which seems to be hidden by heat shields.
[/URL]OC6 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]

Here is the back of the pan, with the original (non-magnetic) 17 mm hex head drain plug at center.
[/URL]OC4 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]

Undo the drain plug and let the oil into a pan from which you can pour it into a calibrated container if you want measure it's volume. If you are collecting a sample to send away for analysis, first let out about 2L, collect the sample (~0.1L), then let out the rest. Then undo the filter housing and dump it's oil into the pan. Ours was loose enough to turn by hand. There was 5L of oil plus the sample, quite close to the Volvo-specified capacity of 5.7 US qts (5.4 liters). The sad story of why i found it necessary to measure the old oil because Volvo chose to replace the dipstick with an on/off level indication is in:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?215383-Drive-E-Electronic-Dipstick-Question

Looking up after removing the filter housing. The mess was not as bad as I expected, easily cleaned up with brake cleaner spray.
[/URL]OC8 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]

I usually use assembly lube, so put some on the O-rings at each end of the filter, the housing, and the new magnetic drain plug. Here, you can also see the oil sample and the old vs. new drain plugs.
[/URL]OC7 by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]

Our dealer gave me the torque specs, which I posted in another thread:
"The drain plug torque is 38 Nt-m and the oil filter housing is 25 Nt-m. Volvo does not recommend removing the plug in the filter housing that is for the European market only."

The housing has torque specs on it: 25 Nt-m overall and 4 Nt-m for the plug, which is 6 mm allen. I'm not sure what they use the plug for in Europe, but it may help to let the oil out in a controlled stream to reduce the mess when you remove the filter housing.

Don't forget the new crush washer. After torqueing, pour in 1 liter of new oil, then check for leaks. Then pour in 3 more liters, start the engine and let it idle for a minute or so, shut it off, and check for leaks. After it has been off for 10-15 minutes, you may want to also check the electronic oil level sensor. With 4 liters of new oil, ours displayed
[/URL]oillow by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]

When I added another 0.5L, it displayed:
[/URL]oilOK by tonyjag03, on Flickr[/IMG]

I should have added smaller increments to see exactly where the electronic dipstick's threshold is; what i did only shows that it's between 4 and 4.5L. If the specified 5.4L at MAX is accurate and MIN is 1 L less, the threshold would be 4.4L at MIN. If someone can do that and post the result here, we will appreciate your effort!

Add the remaining new oil. I put a total of 5L in., but may add another 0.4L, according to the specified capacity, to allow for a bit of oil it may have consumed, that didn't drain out, or ended up in a rag. Secure the cap and replace the bottom cover. Don't forget the chocks.

Good Luck! Please post any observations or improvements. Thanks in advance.

Upon hearing from Blackstone, I will summarize the results here. :)
 

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Nice write-up. Just as info, the names listed are supplier componies. For example, Johnson Matthey is a major supplier of exhaust components, Faurecia of many different parts and I would assume Emitec is an emissions component supplier as well. :)
 

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why is it that nearly all european cars make the oil filter housing in a location that will cause a mess upon replacement? My old Audi did this and so did my Saab 9-3. Doing an oil change on my Sienna was so simple and clean, that I finished it in 10 minutes and took another 5 minutes to figure out if I had missed anything. The hardest part was getting the van on ramps!

Regardless, thanks for the detailed writeup and I look forward to seeing the results of the blackstone analysis!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice write-up. Just as info, the names listed are supplier componies. For example, Johnson Matthey is a major supplier of exhaust components, Faurecia of many different parts and I would assume Emitec is an emissions component supplier as well. :)
Thanks for explaining that! So they aren't signatures of the guys who built it ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
......

Regardless, thanks for the detailed writeup and I look forward to seeing the results of the blackstone analysis!
Here are the comments from the Blackstone report, with [values/universal average in ppm]:

TONY: Wear metals [Al 26/3, Fe 23/9, Cu 29/5] and silicon [21/11] are high in this sample, but there's no need to fear. These materials are from the initial break-in period. The metals come from new parts meshing together, and the silicon comes
from sealers and gaskets used at the factory. After a few oil changes, these materials should wash out and
read close to universal averages (showing typical wear for this type of engine with ~4,800 miles on the oil).
A trace of fuel showed up, but it's probably just from operational factors. The TBN was strong at 3.0, so try
8,000 miles next run. Nice report!
 

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I appreciate your complete write up, but my $.02 is as long as my wife's $50,000+ car is under warranty the dealer does all the work. I know that may not be the popular thing to say, but if it comes to warranty question, there is none from our end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I understand and share your view in general. But in the case of the extra oil change, I discussed it with the service manager, who told me that if it were his car, he would do it.
 

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I appreciate your complete write up, but my $.02 is as long as my wife's $50,000+ car is under warranty the dealer does all the work. I know that may not be the popular thing to say, but if it comes to warranty question, there is none from our end.
The high amount of metals in the sample absolutely prove that the decision to do the first oil change early was the smart move. It would not have any impact on the warranty period, but rather, much further down the line when the engine is OUT of warranty! An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I later added another 0.4L of oil and have not seen any overfill warnings, so I think it is as close to MAX as it is possible to achieve without a real dipstick or VIDA.
There has been a noticeable drop in MPG, but it's hard to say whether that's due to colder weather, shorter trips, or the thicker 5W30 oil...probably a combination of all of these factors.
If anyone finds a Volvo-compliant 0w20 oil (like Castrol Edge Professional developed for this engine) in the US, please share the source with us!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Oil Change Procedure Refinements

I just did another extra oil change at 29K miles (6K since last change by Volvo, ~0.5 L of oil burned, none added). Here are some refinements to the procedure:
- The oil drain plug, both original and magnetic, has a 17mm hex head.
- The mess can indeed be reduced by first removing the plug from the bottom of the filter housing (6mm allen head) and letting it drain. There is still about 1" of oil left in the bottom of the housing, but the mess is nevertheless diminished. The Volvo oil filter replacement comes with a new O-ring for this plug, so why not use it?
- After cleaning up the housing and before putting it back under the engine, the plug can be replaced and torqued.

Torque specs and type of wrench summary :
- 8 screws that hold the bottom cover: ? torque; T-30
- Plug at bottom of filter housing: 4 nt-m; 6 mm allen*
- Housing to engine: 25 Nt-m: Lisle 61660 86mm 16-Flute End Cap Wrench*
- Drain plug to pan: 38 Nt-m, 17mm hex* Use the new aluminum crush washer that comes with the Volvo filter.
* use assembly lube.

Hoping to now safely extend the change interval to 10K miles, I sent another oil sample to Blackstone and will share the results when they come.
 

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Tony:
With my BMW 335xi - I went from 5-30 to Mobil 1 0-40 European blend. My mileage went up. I have read in many places that the first number (cold viscosity) is the more important one for engine longevity. This oil is readily available in (among other places) Walmart.
 

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I just did another extra oil change at 29K miles...
Tony, what oil did you use?
I used castrol 5w-30 extended performance (gold) for the first "in-the-middle" oil change at 5K miles. Dealer did the next one @ 10K, presumably using castrol professional. For the third, @ 15K, I was surprised to find castrol no longer specifies ACEA A5/B5, so my only other option was Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 (blue) - which I used. All of these oil changes didn't really affect gas mileage, btw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Answer + Blackstone Report: 10K OK

Tony, what oil did you use?
I used castrol 5w-30 extended performance (gold) for the first "in-the-middle" oil change at 5K miles. Dealer did the next one @ 10K, presumably using castrol professional. For the third, @ 15K, I was surprised to find castrol no longer specifies ACEA A5/B5, so my only other option was Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 (blue) - which I used. All of these oil changes didn't really affect gas mileage, btw.
I use Castrol Edge Professional 5W30. I found a Volvo dealer in NH who sells it if you bring containers.

Here is the latest report from Blackstone:
TONY: Thanks for the notes. We don't have any problems to report with these results. Wear metals line up
nicely with last time, so internal parts are getting along well. There have been some slight improvements in
metals, which may be due to the last bit of wear-in material finally washing out of the system. The viscosity
was just a little thin, but that wasn't caused by excess fuel or any other contamination, so it's not much of a
concern. With results as good as these, we don't see any reason you can't go up to the recommended
10,000 mile interval. Very nice report!:)
 
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