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Looks nice.

Whatever questions you'll ask them, it will cost a lot of money to get it up to date. IMO it is more important to have it nice in and out. All the mechanical stuff has to be fixed at this age, but at least it is still possible to buy common wearable parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update:

I contacted the dealership directly. Title is clean, three owners, mileage is legit. They did mention that the timing belt looks new and so do the fluids, but have no receipts. I asked about the front suspension and PCV and they said there are no issues with the car. So next step is to go there physically. Any trouble spots to go to immediately. How can I test certain things to make sure they're in good condition?
 

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Bring a rubber glove. Put it over the oil filler and start the engine. If the rubber glove blows up, pcv is clogged. If it sucks in, pcv is fine.
Look at the color of the transmission fluid. Should be cherry red.
When the timing belts are changed, it is standard practice to put a sticker near the power steering fluid container indicating that it was changed and at what mileage. Without that, or receipts or records of the belt being changed, I personally would not trust it. Volvo says to change it at 105k miles, so it should be new, or way over due for a change. Considering the catastrophic events that occur in the engine if the belt fails, I would not trust 'it looks good' as an indication of the condition of the belt or the pulleys that are typically replaced.
I would also look over all the bushings-- control arms, engine/torque mounts, etc. Drive the car and hit bumps. If there are any clunks or bangs, you have bushings that are bad. They are typically easy to replace DIY, but use that to your advantage with price.
Make sure you get it up to operating temperature when you test drive it. After you do, put the transmission in park, then switch through the gears to make sure that all engage quickly without any slams or bangs (I don't know the histories of 2005 transmissions, but the older ones have issues)
 

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To add to what's been said, I would take it to a mechanic for a PPI.

The timing belt may be fine but very often it's the tensioner that fails. If there is no record that it's been done you would have to assume that it has not and factor that work in to the purchase price.

I'd also be a little leery of a place selling a car where they couldn't even clean the car before posting pics but that's just me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not to be rude, what looks dirty? The interior or the exterior? I didn't notice any dirt or any trash on the inside of the car
 

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Not to be rude, what looks dirty? The interior or the exterior? I didn't notice any dirt or any trash on the inside of the car
I see white specs all over the floorboards, but I wouldn't give a flying hell about that. The leather looks shampooed and conditioned, but the cargo nets are hanging out so I'd ask about that and see if they go in fully, but that might be an xc thing where they just sit there, I haven't looked at any xc's in person. I bought my 2001 t5 and a few months in, realized that the seats won't completely fold down correctly. Not the biggest deal but when you're getting a wagon you should be sure you're getting a functional one.
 

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Not to be rude, what looks dirty? The interior or the exterior? I didn't notice any dirt or any trash on the inside of the car
I guess you didn't look at the wheels - about three year's brake dust accumulation there, lol, but if it's all good with you that's all that matters:).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well as long as it is an easy clean, like vacuuming the interior I don't mind. I would be more worried about physical damage over superficial damage
 

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I have the same car in Nautic Blue with 175,000 miles. It's been a great car - quiet, smooth riding, comfortable, merges into traffic easily. Other than standard maintenance items, I've replaced or fixed: alarm module (battery corrodes, then leaks all over the circuitry), ABS motor, fuel pump, broken front spring (I replaced both), temperature sensor, Booster Vacuum Switch, rear wheel bearing, air intake hose, fuel door hinge, ignition switch, switchblade key, radiator... They're a great car, but have their needs!
 

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There's a back door way you can look at Carfax maintenance records using their 'mycarfax' app.
The VIN for that car is 'YV1SZ592551199588.' I hate when dealers make you subscribe to get a VIN, but I keep a phony email for just that.

Looking at the records and citing some specific ones of interest...
03/19 - Tire balance @ 133,521 miles
12/15 - Brakes checked and rotor replaced @ 103,498 miles
07/15 - Oil change @ 100349 miles
07/12 - Coolant flush, PS flush @ 79,461 miles
05/12 - Front brake pads changed @ 78,753 miles
03/12 - Rear brake pads changed, brake fluid flushed @ 76,625 miles

So, you have a lapse of any maintenance records between 2015 and current. The repair shop changed between 2012 and 2015, and I'd bet that's when owner #3 got it. These cars are finicky with maintenance, and that one is right on the cusp of needing what is likely a full suspension overhaul, timing belt (yeah, sure, 'looks new' but no record of replacement...), PCV update, etc. No transmission service history either.

My personal opinion... I'd pass and find a cleaner privately owned car or one with better records. P2 XCs are cheap, and it's not like that is an exceptionally nice one. I'm a bit jaded against BHPH dealers like that though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well either this or an old Lexus, whichever I have the money for first. Florida is such a cruel state to shop for either
 

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I like the second one more (I like the color combo and seats look mint) but needing a timing belt/tensioner/water pump service will make it 2 grand more than the first one - not sure it's worth that. Both cars need new tires so that's a draw.
 

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There's a back door way you can look at Carfax maintenance records using their 'mycarfax' app.
The VIN for that car is 'YV1SZ592551199588.' I hate when dealers make you subscribe to get a VIN, but I keep a phony email for just that.

Looking at the records and citing some specific ones of interest...
03/19 - Tire balance @ 133,521 miles
12/15 - Brakes checked and rotor replaced @ 103,498 miles
07/15 - Oil change @ 100349 miles
07/12 - Coolant flush, PS flush @ 79,461 miles
05/12 - Front brake pads changed @ 78,753 miles
03/12 - Rear brake pads changed, brake fluid flushed @ 76,625 miles

So, you have a lapse of any maintenance records between 2015 and current. The repair shop changed between 2012 and 2015, and I'd bet that's when owner #3 got it. These cars are finicky with maintenance, and that one is right on the cusp of needing what is likely a full suspension overhaul, timing belt (yeah, sure, 'looks new' but no record of replacement...), PCV update, etc. No transmission service history either.

My personal opinion... I'd pass and find a cleaner privately owned car or one with better records. P2 XCs are cheap, and it's not like that is an exceptionally nice one. I'm a bit jaded against BHPH dealers like that though.
He's right, Carfax is the Gold Standard for used cars. My neighbor bought a used car with a rolled back speedo. When he registered the car after buying it, the DMV told him that the mileage was now lower than the smog cert that was done less than a month ago. Bt 100,000 miles. Carfax will at least help you spot something like that, and maybe help you avoid buying a car that has been in a bad crash.
Like BackRoadSeeker says, you can back door Carfax by enrolling the VIN in your app as your car. Worked for me!
The Pre-Purchase inspection at a Dealer is worth the money, too. My wife's car checked really good, and we also found that the '13 S-60 still had warranty and service plan coverage. The car lot didn't know that! Nor did we tell him until the ink was dry on the contract.
By the way, I bought one of those CarFax wannabe's, and it was useless. Pretty much told me that the cars I looked at were sold when new, and nothing after.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I like the second one more (I like the color combo and seats look mint) but needing a timing belt/tensioner/water pump service will make it 2 grand more than the first one - not sure it's worth that. Both cars need new tires so that's a draw.
I think the one for 4k is looking a lot more appealing, since I have proof the timing belt and everything was changed, plus I don't have to shill out for an aftermarket radio now. The extra 10k miles don't bother me all too much
 

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I think the one for 4k is looking a lot more appealing, since I have proof the timing belt and everything was changed, plus I don't have to shill out for an aftermarket radio now. The extra 10k miles don't bother me all too much
That eBay seller for the cheaper of your two eBay links is pretty reputable I believe for Volvo's, but.... I'd go for the more expensive one myself between the two. The HU-850 stereo is phenomenal, one owner, and it has matching Michelin tires. All signs of someone loving their car.

The cheaper one has mismatched tires and that aftermarket stereo looks hideous. Ideally, if you can drive both though, they're both far better than your first car.

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I agree about the condition of the second car but it does have a mismatched tire - the second from the bottom in the string of pics is a Pirelli Scorpion and the others are Michelins. Also, the radio in this car is the HU-650, which is a decent radio but nowhere near as nice as the HU-850.
 

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I agree about the condition of the second car but it does have a mismatched tire - the second from the bottom in the string of pics is a Pirelli Scorpion and the others are Michelins. Also, the radio in this car is the HU-650, which is a decent radio but nowhere near as nice as the HU-850.
Ah, good eye... I saw the center stage speaker and assumed it was an HU-850.

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Ah, good eye... I saw the center stage speaker and assumed it was an HU-850.

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Every P2 V/XC70/S60 has the center dash speaker grill. Usually there's nothing behind it though ;)
 
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