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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 1998 s70 t5, as far as I knew it was stock when I got it a year ago, however I just installed boost guage and it hits 15-16 psi max, I tried 2 different gauges to make sure it was correct. I guess the ecu was tuned at some point before I got it, and I have added cold air intake, and removed rear muffler. How much horsepower should I have like it is?
 

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That's overboosting. I wouldn't assume it's OK that way. Without a wideband to monitor your AFR's, it may be running lean up top. Guessing it was tuned is not a good way to look at it.

Could be around 200WHP if it actually sustains 15psi, on a 16T, assuming good compression, stage zero all done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you mean to say 300hp? Cause the car has more than 200 completely stock, and i can only guess about it being tuned, there's no way to really tell is there? What else could cause me to get 15 psi besides ecu tune? There's no mbc on the car. It looks like it holds at 13 psi and spikes to 15 psi at shift
 

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200WHP aka wheel horsepower, measured at the wheels after considering drivetrain loss through the transmission.

It's a quick 200 though, considering these cars can make more torque than horsepower in some instances.
 

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200-210whp is probably a safe bet. My R is in the 230whp range most likely. Have yet to get it to a dyno.

What's not a safe bet is your higher boost levels. It could be a bad or improperly set wastegate, which can blow an engine. If you are running too lean as well, that will blow your engine too over time. Get your car checked out. Might have to fork over $100 or so to get the stock files put on at a dealership just to be sure. If you're wanting a tune. Lucky at ARD can get you a proper tune file and probably give you the stock files as well on a separate ecu.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is my first turbo car and I've never worked to much on engines. Mostly I've worked on my 87 mustang gt (450hp) :). So how do I check the wastegate to make sure it's right? And what does it mean if it's running lean? And how do I fix it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also isn't possible that it was simply professionally tuned? I've had the car for a year and it runs so well, very smooth, 30+ mph and the car was checked out at the Volvo dealership where I bought it
 

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Also isn't possible that it was simply professionally tuned? I've had the car for a year and it runs so well, very smooth, 30+ mph and the car was checked out at the Volvo dealership where I bought it
Very possible, and many of the tunes wouldn't set off any alarms if Volvo hooked it up. Just don't want your engine to blow up either! :D

Running lean means your air to fuel ratio is on the low side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yea, I dont want it to blow up either. Going to get timing belt changed next month, should I get them to check anything else. How can I check fuel, air ratio?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was planning on getting the obx turbo back system off of eBay, does that already have one on it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If it is running too lean or rich, then what would cause this? And is there anything else that can cause me to get 15psi besides mbc, or a ecu tune? And last thing is if it holds at 12.5-13 psi and spikes to 15-16 at shift then what is the psi actually set to? 13 or 16? By the way thanks for your knowledge. I am still learning
 

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If you're holding steady at 13, then I would think you're ok and not running lean. It's typical for turbo cars to boost at shifts, hence why all the evo/sti crowd have bov's that SPOOOOSHHHHH when they shift.

Keep an eye on things and report back in a few days.

Also, where are you located? There are Swedespeeders all over, so chances are you live near one. Maybe they could come out and take a look at things?
 

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So does that mean the psi is set to 13?
If there are no codes for TCV (the device that regulates the wastegate bleed) then it may be that the ECU is modified. You can remove the ECU & see if there are any markings that would indicate it has been tuned. What's surprising is that the PO didn't tell you, if it is indeed 'tuned'. Maybe you should contact them.

For all the questions you have, I would suggest a little reading on performance mods, which will give you some background info to go on,
 

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I would hold off on modifying this car for awhile. I'm not trying to be rude, but you need to have a good base of automotive knowledge before you start putting parts on a car. If you have to ask about each individual modification, you shouldn't be doing it. Modifying a car solely through others' knowledge means you end up with a hodgepodge of parts that probably won't work well together....and you end up none the wiser.

Once you can come to your own conclusions about what occurs when certain things happen in an engine, the finished product will be a safe and reliable vehicle that you can be 100% confident about, since you know exactly what's in it and why.
 

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^^He's correct on several points, which is why several of us have stressed you need to find out exactly what your car is running and why.

I'd get in touch with the seller and ask if he knew there were modifications on the car at the time of sale.
 

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I would hold off on modifying this car for awhile. I'm not trying to be rude, but you need to have a good base of automotive knowledge before you start putting parts on a car. If you have to ask about each individual modification, you shouldn't be doing it. Modifying a car solely through others' knowledge means you end up with a hodgepodge of parts that probably won't work well together....and you end up none the wiser.

Once you can come to your own conclusions about what occurs when certain things happen in an engine, the finished product will be a safe and reliable vehicle that you can be 100% confident about, since you know exactly what's in it and why.
Wow - that sort of logic just doesn't compute for me. Are you saying that you can't find sage advice and follow it to get decent results?
Maybe it takes a bit of reading to discern sage advice from awful advice but finding someone that you trust knows what they are doing to advise you to achieve a decent outcome has been going on for years with cars and just about everything under the sun.
 

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I think what he means is that it's best to undertake a project like this with a good understanding of what you're doing.
And I agree. A lot of people have wasted a lot of money just throwing stuff together without a plan, just forum BS.
Burnout makes a really good point about having some patience, learning about your Volvo and logically
taking things step by step. Then you can put together a direction for your goals with confidence.

It seems that a common mistake is to jump into upgrades before having a good grip on how it all works.
Sure, there's plenty of good advice on the net, but it's no substitute for real knowledge. How can you tell
what's decent advice or not if you haven't got anything to compare it to? Learning isn't bad, it's good.
And it doesn't happen overnight, it takes a while and you have to want to know how stuff works.

Step 1 - STAGE 0! Know what you have and be sure it's running correctly. Get the car to a clean stage 0 before
you start spending money making changes the car isn't ready for. Ignition, suspension, fluids, timing belt, etc.
There are plenty of posts on the subject in the Volvo forums. Sort through them to get started.
Then start getting your hands dirty and accumulate some first hand experience. :thumbup:

Step 2 - Know what the car is capable of and what you can reasonably expect for an end result. A big part of
that is knowing your options, deciding how much you can afford and whether or not it's even worth going after.
Heck - Who knows. You may chuck it all and go buy an old Camaro!

The logic here is often based in a desire for self-sufficiency, curiosity about how things work and an aversion to
dropping large wads of cash at shops. You also get the added bonus of having a clue if you find yourself in
an unexpected situation on the side of the road. Life's messy...Be Prepared! At least that's my logic. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I've owned about 6 mustangs in the past 9 years some of which I've built from just a shell. So I'm not clueless. My dad helps me with everything I don't know, but this is the first turbo car I've ever had and my dad knows nothing about turbo either. I'm not looking to do any major mods right now, just trying to find out how my car is running higher psi than stock, I will see if there are any markings on the computer. I've had many fast car and with the help of my dad I've always kept them going right. But now that I have the turbo I'm trying to learn all I can about it and it's components. By the way, as for a camaro? Sorry I have to stick with my 87 mustang gt convertible with 450hp and 13,000 original miles. But I will to say I am enjoying this s70 t5 more than any car I've ever had:) I have had it exactly a year and here is my list of mods: cold air intake, rear muffler removal, xc70 grill, 17" Pegasus wheels(painted gloss black by me) they rims came out real nice, clarion 6.5 touchscreen with DVD and navigation, headlight eyebrows painted factory red, cross drilled rotors front and rear, painted calipers red, new exhaust tip, boost guage, and I am almost done with stage 0. I am fully capable of doing major mods but I appreciate all advice I can get first. But for now just completing stage 0 and enjoying the turbo
 
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