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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wasn't really sure what to title thread.

Fairly simple question to those of you that have already replaced your 4C struts. My 04 has 108k and the original shocks and although none are leaking its probably about time to replace them so its on my list of things to do.

My question is that of dampening. Currently the car seems to transmit a lot of vibrations into the car in the form of jiggling. The only way I can describe this is it seems exactly like my Miata's cowl shake before adding a roll cage. The entire structure of the car shudders in certain situations. Never before have I had a fixed roof car exhibit this behavior and I've had some hoopties back in the day that I knew damn well the shocks/struts were bad.

For what its worth the PO had the steering stops, ball joints, and control arm bushings replaced at 105k and I replaced the front sway links last Friday.

Is this "normal" or can I expect this to disappear after a shock replacement?
 

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Comfort= Marshmellow....kinda like the ride of a mid 90's cadillac.

Sport=Stiff....a little rough but not insane...try going over a speed bump and notice the rebound or how sharply your car "slams" to the asphalt after the bump (or how quickly it re achieves full contact with the flat road)

Advanced=Very Stiff sharp response, a good way to tell if this is working or not is slowly go over a speed bump and feel how it literally feels like your tyres are magnetized to the road, your rebound rate is very high with stiff suspension so it should feel like it sucks down to the road almost instantly.

Also you could try to go to a large parking lot and do sharp turns in each setting...if your getting any body roll in advanced then something is wrong...


So as to your exact problem, when/at what setting are you feeling this shuttering? Further what wheels and tyres are you running? This could effect your ride as well....especially if your on 19" wheels.
 

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Good question. I had similar symptoms, but my steering wheel was shaking too. I found out one of my front tires was on its last leg. After replacing my tires the steering wheel shake is gone, but caR still has a slight shake to it at 60+ MPH that seems exaggerated depending on road conditions. I have new struts/shocks waiting to go on, but I'm not sure when I'm going to get around to installing them. I have 113k miles on the odo and I'm thinking that has got to be a factor in how well the shock & strut dampening is working.
 

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I'm waiting on new shocks and struts so mine feels like it's floating down the road even on sport and to an extent advanced settings.
 

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For the over 60mph shaking do you have factory or aftermarket rims on the car?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
 

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For the over 60mph shaking do you have factory or aftermarket rims on the car?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
TD Pro Race 1.2 35ET 18x8's

those would def be aftermarket :D

The 60mph shake might also be spacers if you run them. Try taking them off if you do in fact have spacers and see if that solves the shake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Comfort= Marshmellow....kinda like the ride of a mid 90's cadillac.

Sport=Stiff....a little rough but not insane...try going over a speed bump and notice the rebound or how sharply your car "slams" to the asphalt after the bump (or how quickly it re achieves full contact with the flat road)

Advanced=Very Stiff sharp response, a good way to tell if this is working or not is slowly go over a speed bump and feel how it literally feels like your tyres are magnetized to the road, your rebound rate is very high with stiff suspension so it should feel like it sucks down to the road almost instantly.

Also you could try to go to a large parking lot and do sharp turns in each setting...if your getting any body roll in advanced then something is wrong...


So as to your exact problem, when/at what setting are you feeling this shuttering? Further what wheels and tyres are you running? This could effect your ride as well....especially if your on 19" wheels.
Thanks for the response Jesse

Your explanation of each mode is pretty spot on, I'd describe them almost the same. Comfort is a joke, I almost never use it (only had the car 2 weeks though). It reminds me of my grandfathers Buick Roadmaster wagon.

Advanced is STIFF and Sport is a nice compromise between the two extremes. The car is mechanically stock with cheap Nexen N3000 235/40/18 tires the PO put on. I'll be putting Yokohama W.Drive winter tires on next week in the same size so perhaps that'll make a slight difference. Maybe its the weight of the car but to me ride isn't as controlled and taught feeling as I think it should be. My guess is new shocks will certainly help, just wanted to get other opinions first.
 

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My question is that of dampening. Currently the car seems to transmit a lot of vibrations into the car in the form of jiggling. The only way I can describe this is it seems exactly like my Miata's cowl shake before adding a roll cage. The entire structure of the car shudders in certain situations. Never before have I had a fixed roof car exhibit this behavior and I've had some hoopties back in the day that I knew damn well the shocks/struts were bad.
Make sure your wheels and tires are in good shape (balanced, no bent wheels, etc).
This doesn't sound like bad shocks to me...
FWIW I have 118K on my original shocks, and they still seem just fine. Whenever I start to get symptoms like you describe I just know it's time for another wheel/tire rebalancing.
 

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Make sure your wheels and tires are in good shape (balanced, no bent wheels, etc).
This doesn't sound like bad shocks to me...
FWIW I have 118K on my original shocks, and they still seem just fine. Whenever I start to get symptoms like you describe I just know it's time for another wheel/tire rebalancing.
...agree, and to add to that a SUM calibration. When first got my car it CRASHED over every expansion joint, gawd forbid you hit a pothole... Even in comfort. After calibrating the SUM it felt normal again.

Also HIGHLY recommend TME springs, poly LCA bushings, and IPD subframe inserts. Really tighten up the car, with no added harshness IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
...agree, and to add to that a SUM calibration. When first got my car it CRASHED over every expansion joint, gawd forbid you hit a pothole... Even in comfort. After calibrating the SUM it felt normal again.

Also HIGHLY recommend TME springs, poly LCA bushings, and IPD subframe inserts. Really tighten up the car, with no added harshness IMO.
I'll have to look up the SUM recalibration. Any mods will likely wait until spring and no LCA bushings - they were replaced 2k ago but the subframe inserts sound like a good idea.

I mentioned before we'll see what new tires do first and they're going on next week (Yokohama W.Drives). I found a small sidewall bubble in the front tire when replacing the front sway links last week.
 

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V70R Shocks

Hi all.

I have never understood why ppl seem to think that the shocks (thou they are expensive) fitted to these cars can last forever and not wear out! FACT: The average life of a shock absorber (whether it be gas/hydraulic or even a mixture of both) is approx 60-70k. Just because the shocks a V70R/S60R are electronically controlled does not mean that they defy the laws of physics nor can they withstand the pounding that the planets roads give them forever.

I have also heard Dealers tell customers that they are ok if they are not leaking! Utter rubbish my friends.

The fact of the matter is that if your car has done 70k or more and you are still running on the same shocks from new then trust me when i say...you WILL notice a MASSIVE difference with brand new shocks fitted all round.

I should know cos i did just that at around the 110k mark. I bought the car with 100k and the car just didn'nt handle right. So, new shocks, support plates and a SUM calibration and the difference is night and day!

V70R/S60R shocks wear out like any other shock does and they do not have to be leaking to be knackered.
 

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I just replaced my rear shocks a month ago - at 123k miles. The old ones looked fine and performed fine (different settings, manual push / pull etc). The ONLY thing I can feel that's different (and the reason for the replacement), is that we had an odd thump noise in the rear, especially going over speedbumps etc. After replacing the rears and doing a SUM reset, that noise went away. I will keep the fronts a bit longer.
I agree they wear, just like any other car. I think you have an easier time compensating for the feel on this car because you can put them in Sport or Advanced. I also know that on our particular car the majority of the miles are highway miles heading back and forth to ski country, and beach in the summer. So it's not like we have 123k of city miles on it. Still original clutch as well...
 

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Like a cool breeze......
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just wanted to report back

Its been 4,000 miles (I do a ton of highway driving) since making this thread all of which were on new tires (Yokohama W.Drive Winter tires) and while the slight shimmy is gone due to the old tires being out of balance the jittery front right is still present. I think its safe to say with almost 111k the front right strut is toast although its not leaking. The front right bump stop is badly worn too for what its worth. The plan at this point is replace the struts in the spring along with aftermarket springs and maybe sways.

Time to start saving those Benjamins because this one is going to hurt.
 
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