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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK without pulling the engine or turbo, is there some ridiculously easy way to get to this vacuum hose to unclamp remove and replace?
Note this picture taken by dangling camera down narrow space on driver side with inlet pipe removed (obviously).

 

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I had the Upper Engine torque mount, OTE pipe, intake pipe, and airbox off. I laid a quarter folded 'moving blanket' on the engine bay. I then hefted my 350+ pound self up onto the engine and laid across the bay. From there I was able to reach down and have "adequate" access to the hose. I remember noting to myself that I would probably be able to change the TCV using the same technique as well.
 

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I had the Upper Engine torque mount, OTE pipe, intake pipe, and airbox off. I laid a quarter folded 'moving blanket' on the engine bay. I then hefted my 350+ pound self up onto the engine and laid across the bay. From there I was able to reach down and have "adequate" access to the hose. I remember noting to myself that I would probably be able to change the TCV using the same technique as well.
why do you need that technique to change the tcv?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, go underneath the car and you will see it/have open access to it.
Yeh wish I knew what you were seeing from underneath ... here's my view ... worse than from above!

 

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Is that line split or broken? Is there some obvious reason it has to be replaced?

If not, then do what I did. Cut it in a convenient location and get one of these for a dollar from AutoZone:



It can be your secret, just like mine is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Is that line split or broken? Is there some obvious reason it has to be replaced?

If not, then do what I did. Cut it in a convenient location and get one of these for a dollar from AutoZone:



It can be your secret, just like mine is.
That's the ticket.
 

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I took off the strut braces, stretched my body over the top of the engine and just went down there by feel with angled pliers to squeeze the clamp lol. I actually thought it was going to be harder then what it really was lol. Got it off within 2 minutes
 

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Despite what others might tell you I am convinced it is totally unaccessible other than by magical or other unworldly powers. It simply cannot be reached without removing lots & lots of parts unless you are in league with the devil
 

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One of the RARE instances where RHD is > LHD.
(we don’t have the brake booster in the way!)

It’s accessible, albeit tough to reach.

1. clean off all the oil & grime around the turbo (so you can see what you are lookin’ at)
2. remove the strut braces & turbo inlet pipe
3. get an inspection mirror & flashlight
4. angled pliers & feel is your best bet (typically when laying on the engine!)
 

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When Bobby and I replaced the lines and CBV on my R, we did the "rotate the turbo housing" trick to get to it. You'll need some fancy ratchet attachments to get all five bolts loosened, but you can then turn the whole right side of the turbo upside down and get to everything.

Just be sure you rotate the turbo housing back completely so the outlet is straight up or you'll be leaking boost like me :(
 

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IDK about you, but I managed to get it off with just needle nose plyers. Nothing fancy, just a regular set... I had removed only the MAF-Turbo pipe.
 

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IDK about you, but I managed to get it off with just needle nose plyers. Nothing fancy, just a regular set... I had removed only the MAF-Turbo pipe.
Did you put it back the same way?
 

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Did you put it back the same way?
I put it back the same way... I've had no problems for 6,000 miles. I also didn't do it from under the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I took off the strut braces, stretched my body over the top of the engine and just went down there by feel with angled pliers to squeeze the clamp lol. I actually thought it was going to be harder then what it really was lol. Got it off within 2 minutes
This is the only correct solution. I tried for hours (on and off for 15 minutes at a time) over days trying to be "smart". Finally laid my ass across the engine and got to work with several types of angled and straight plyers. The final answer was quite simple ... pull the hose so it is straight away from the turbo so you can turn it freely. This lets you quickly get the clamp in the most accessible spot to grab with straight but short needlenose plyers. Use fingers to feel how to attach the plyers then pull. Clamp slides off, yank hose and you're done.
 
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