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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have some EBC yellow pads I am probably going to install tonight. Typically when i install new pads, i use a c clamp to push the caliper back in enough so that the new pads fit over the rotor.
Does anyone do anything different? For the moment, mainly interested in the front.
 

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I usually just use a set of channel locks for normal calipers. For fancy brembo ones with a finish on them I have a generic brake caliper clamp or use a rag or piece of rubber to prevent the calipers from getting scratched. Leave the cap off the brake fluid reservoir and watch closely so the reservoir doesn't overflow.
 

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The first thing I do is to suck some fluid out of the reservoir using a turkey baster. Otherwise, you may overflow the reservoir when pushing the pistons back. Annoying!

Before I take the caliper off I wedge a screwdriver between pad and disc to push the piston(s) back as far as possible. Then I take the caliper off.

I have one of those pump-up brake bleeders which really really makes the job of changing fluid easier.
 

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Is it enough for the rear caliper? I thought you need to not only push but screw them back at the same time.
Is it accurate?
No it's not enough for the rear. You need the plate with the two little dimples as shown in the kit posted earlier in the thread.
 

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No you don't. Once the EPB is retracted, the piston simply pushes in.
My fault, I thought it was just like the C30's rear breaks.
 

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No you don't. Once the EPB is retracted, the piston simply pushes in.
Good to know! I assumed twist and push like prior P1 platform cars I've had.
 

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While I used to use a c-clamp, I have to say that a spreader tool like this or this is inexpensive and a lot easier to place on the rear calipers considering how wide the EPB mechanism makes the caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I changed my front pads last night. I have to say the volvo caliper "spliting" like it does made it super easy. The new pads didnt have much more material than the old ones so i was able to use the bolts that connect the two halfs to squeeze the caliper into place. Pretty easy job. If the front pads stay noise free, im going to put some EBC yellows on the rear.
 

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I changed my front pads last night. I have to say the volvo caliper "spliting" like it does made it super easy. The new pads didnt have much more material than the old ones so i was able to use the bolts that connect the two halfs to squeeze the caliper into place. Pretty easy job. If the front pads stay noise free, im going to put some EBC yellows on the rear.
Not that it would ruin anything (I guess it could), but the VIDA guides tell you explicitly not to split the caliper.

I did it the first time myself, because I was having trouble figuring out how to pull the caliper off the rotor.

All you need to do is remove the 7 mm slide pins and push the caliper against the rotor to push the piston in, and it comes right up and off the rotor with no issue. You basically did that in the end to fit the new pad in.
 

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I changed my front pads last night. I have to say the volvo caliper "spliting" like it does made it super easy. The new pads didnt have much more material than the old ones so i was able to use the bolts that connect the two halfs to squeeze the caliper into place. Pretty easy job. If the front pads stay noise free, im going to put some EBC yellows on the rear.
I use a C-Clamp that I bought back in high school for this purpose although some of these other tools now look more convenient. Do you apply anything to the back of pads to prevent noise/squealing?
 

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I use that Syl Glide stuff on the pad backs and channels where the pads rest. Never had a squeaky brake.
 

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I use that Syl Glide stuff on the pad backs and channels where the pads rest. Never had a squeaky brake.
I used this as well before, and it works fine, although I think the silicone gunked up on me and led to sticky pads. This time I used moly grease. The Akebono pads came with a small packet, and I had a large tube of it sitting around as well.
 
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