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I'm new to this forum. My apologies if I am not posting this in the correct forum.

George Dill, I'm interested learning more about in your water injection system. I've been researching this and it seems like a good idea all the way around. Thanks for any real world expertise you can share. I have twin SU HS6s.

Mark Sloo
 

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I'm new to this forum. My apologies if I am not posting this in the correct forum.

George Dill, I'm interested learning more about in your water injection system. I've been researching this and it seems like a good idea all the way around. Thanks for any real world expertise you can share. I have twin SU HS6s.

Mark Sloo
Watch this space!

George Dill
 

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Old quote - links/pics may be dead...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>swiftjustice44</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm always interested in new toys, George! So, how sophisticated did you get, 40 years ago? I've always been led to believe a washer pump didn't have enough pressure to allow the water to atomize properly...of course, that's with a turbo car running lots of boost. Tell me more!!</TD></TR></TABLE><p>For grins here's how it should be done...<p><A HREF="http://www.markphillips.net/wi.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.markphillips.net/wi.html</A><p>...but why not get the same effect and have more fun doing it!?<p>First, save the throw-away paper air filters for show and source two K&N permanent filters...<p><A HREF="http://www.aptfast.com/Images_Parts/kn/Filters_Components/3_SD_Depths.jpg" TARGET="_blank">http://www.aptfast.com/Images_...s.jpg</A><p><A HREF="http://www.aptfast.com/apt_parts/Kn_parts/a_KN_filters.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://www.aptfast.com/apt_par...s.htm</A><p>...but not the ipd skinny versions.<p>Why? Why modify the throw-away filter for the water injection when...<p>BTW, if you do run the K&N 2-bolt filters you will need the itermediate adapter for the front carb to accomodate the PCV hose.<p>Next, visit the local Free Flu Shot Clinic and bum four+ unused hypo needles...<p><A HREF="http://www.made-in-china.com/image/2f0j00DeUTmtSEIGqfM/Disposable-Hypodermic-Needle.jpg" TARGET="_blank">http://www.made-in-china.com/i...e.jpg</A><p>Next, hit the local hospital's emergency ward early on any Saturday evening and source some free small-diameter (unused) surgical tubing - about four feet should do it. This stuff is also found at the city dump in orange plastic bags but...<p>Now visit a non-Mall pet shop and pick up a three-way aquarium hose tee with finger-screw shut-off with push-on connections to match the ID of the surgical hose that you didn't get so just buy aquarium hose instead. If the three-way with shut-off ain't in stock buy both items separately.<p>If you visit a big garage/yard sale just before closing much of this stuff can be had for free just be real careful digging those needles out of the trash.<p>Since you already have a drill/bit at home the next item needed is some pull-n-mix two-part epoxy in as small a package as available.<p>Essentially here's what you will be doing (besides destroying your new motor)...<p>Drill a hole of appropriate diameter in the cover of each K&N air filter just above and centered on the two bolt holes. The hypo needles will fit in this hole so drill too small then keep increasing very gradually until the plastic body on the needle "snap-fits" into the hole. While doing this it's a good idea to keep the plastic cover over the needle. Don't epoxy the needles in permanently until the system is working.<p>Disconnect the wwasher hose at the junction going to the squirters and reroute the loose end near the carbs then secure (later) with a ziptie. If not already now is a good time to install an inline wwasher filter.<p>If you are lucky the aquarium three-way tee/shut-off will press-fit into the existing wwasher hose and also onto the aquarium tubing which will press-fit onto the plastic body on each needle.<p>Now something tells me you already see the big picture so I'll add a few comments from experience.<p>Don't let anyone else drive the car unless you disconnect the water injection first.<p>Don't use the wwasher controll knob on the dash to energize the injection system.<p>Hide a small push/release on/of button under the dash with straight power to the wwasher motor (which you have completely rebuilt, yes?) and hold it down while accelerating violently above 3000rpm in any gear and at no other time.<p>The intake charge will grab the shot of water from the needles and mix it with the gas/air for a clean burn giving more hp and torque - I swear on the bobble.<p>You can still use the wwashers just be sure to close the thumbscrew shut off at the threeway tee first and reroute the hose to the squirter junction.<p>I had this setup on a B18D in my daily-driver 122 sedan (Lil' Ben) for many summers here in central Texas and ran 50-50 water/98% rubbing alcohol in the wwasher jug.<p>During one spirited 2nd-gear on-ramp joining I-35 traffic I hit the button at around 4000rpm and the rear carb's paper air filter element shredded and was eaten by the intake which resulted in an overtaking move of the main-lane traffic that I have yet again experienced.<p>That's why you want the K&N filters.<p>When I pulled the head to do a hand-spin of the valve seats the piston tops and head surfaces were mirror-smooth and shiny from the water's extra KABOOM in the combustion chamber.<p>The tempation to run this homemade water injection system full-time (great cooling effects!) should be tempered with the awareness that too much water at low rpms can cause the intake mix to leak past the rings which can...<p>Gotta go walk the dog during which more details will come to mind about why you should not try this at home.<p>George Dill<p><br><i>Modified by gdill2 at 2:10 PM 7-5-2009</i><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by gdill2 at 2:11 PM 7-5-2009</i>
George Dill
 

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Good graby!!! Is this for real? Does it clean the tops of the pistons (like my recent headgasket failure did)?

I wonder if this could be done using the cold start injector on a D-jet system. I've never used it for its intended purpose and ALWAYS started immediately in very cold weather. I'd think with proper pressure and the right stuff to inject it might be pretty slick. (In fact it might have kept me from blowing the headgasket on the YP coming back from the Gilmore.)
 

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Good graby!!! Is this for real? Does it clean the tops of the pistons (like my recent headgasket failure did)?

I wonder if this could be done using the cold start injector on a D-jet system. I've never used it for its intended purpose and ALWAYS started immediately in very cold weather. I'd think with proper pressure and the right stuff to inject it might be pretty slick. (In fact it might have kept me from blowing the headgasket on the YP coming back from the Gilmore.)
Yes, it's for real but...

I was the only driver of the car and could pay attention back then so never left the water injection "ON" once the rpm dropped below 2,000.

The setup works for any gasoline internal combustion 4-cycle engine of older vintage as cars with "brains" would be confused by the changes in the cylinder charge.

Among the many options would be to control the squirt by rpm and/or thottle position rather than a toggle switch.

For somebody with both cools and skills a separate large-capacity reservoir with a stand-alone powerful electric motor would be used instead of the windshield washer jug and pump.

I drove this '66 B18D 122S 4-door sedan daily for many many years but ran the water injector only in the summer.

Also, even in the summer I did not use the water injection setup while cruising down the highway except to pass and impress blondes (young females).

George Dill
 
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