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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Because of the number of members who have recently installed a hitch, I thought I'd make a thread where people can post their experience or tips/questions. I initially wanted an OEM foldout hitch but the deal breaker was that I needed to tow but also use my hitch mounted bike rack. So Stealth was the way to go. I chose to do the installation myself for a few reasons: My dealer was unfamiliar with Stealth. My local Rack/Attack had not done a V90. I'm fairly comfortable using tools and working on cars and enjoy small projects and felt that if anybody was going to break my car - it would be me. The following is not a step by step instruction but simply areas where I thought additional info would have helped me - I'm by no means a mechanic, so everything following is strictly where I had minor problems. All in all it was not a difficult project - but I took my time. It took 6 hours in total spread over one evening and the following morning.

For the most part, I will reference the Stealth V90 Installation instruction Steps found here: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2182/3043/files/VOLVO_V_90_Tow_2017-C.pdf?8338 I will reference the Step number and post where I deviated from the instructions. I hope the photo's post, I've had trouble with this before.


Stealth Hitch Installation on 2019 Volvo V90 CC.


Step 2: I could not access the fender liner screws without removing the wheels - so I put my car up on Jack Stands. This made if very easy. Note: You could probably access the screws without removing the wheels if you used a T25 Allen key. Otherwise, there was no room - even for just a T25 socket head.





Steps 5 and 6:

The Cross Country Fender Flares fit very tightly together at the joint but they DO release along with the bumper cover when you pull out. Just do not force anything. Pull out to the side of the car and very slightly down at the back of the wheel wells - being careful that you do not bend or break the flares. After the sides release - pull straight towards the rear and the bumper cover comes off. Note: I found the Volvo electrical clips (one on each side) very difficult to release - the tabs (under my thumb) are tiny. Further, the electrical lines are very short - so this is an area where a helper is necessary (otherwise, devise something to hold the bumper cover up while you release these electrical clips.)




The following pictures show how clean the back of the car is beneath the bumper cover. Both the OEM and Stealth require a cutout along the bottom of the bumper cover - which will be an area where future dirt/water/salt, etc can enter. No getting around this.




That black plastic piece on top of the reinforcing beam slides out (towards rear) in order to more easily access the retaining nuts for the beam.





Bumber cover and reinforcing beam removed:




Con't....
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
con't

Steps 8 and 9 should be swapped, IMO. I installed the hitch beam, and the reinforcing beam. But the Stealth latch assembly (a beautiful piece of CNC machined stainless steel) fits very tightly. So I ended up removing the hitch beam so that I could install the latch assembly (using a rubber mallet to get the bolt holes lined up). Even if the fit wasn't as tight, I believe it is easier to install the latch assembly, safety chain brackets and 7 way connector bracket before putting the hitch beam on the car.







Stealth Latch Assembly:





Step 10: For the cutout - put the bumper cover on top of a few layers of corrugated cardboard. Cover the cutout area with painters tape and measure out the cutout. I cut from inside to out. I tested drilling and cutting in the area that was going to be scrapped. I would recommend doing this - just so you get a feel for how the plastic cuts. I ended up using a combination of a sharp box cutter to deeply score the lines where I would cut (you could use just the blade if you want). I used a 1/4" drill bit to radius any inside corners. I ended up cutting along the scored line with an oscillating multi-tool - which I already owned. With the correct blade (a semi-circular plastic/wood blade) - it cuts perfectly straight lines without melting the plastic. For rounded outside corners, I used tin snips. Then I cleaned up burrs with a file, and some fine sandpaper. The Stealth instructions recommend a dremel tool to make the cutout. I would avoid this simply because it is very difficult to make a clean straight line cut with a dremel tool. Use a sharp box cutter blade and/or if you have a multi-tool, like I have - use this too. Side note: That assembly on the upper right of the bumper cover photo is the "kick to open" sensor. I didn't think to disconnect this feature (which is useless to me) when I had the chance. The only time it works is when I don't want it to work...




Oscillating multi-tool:






con't....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
con't...


Well, it looks like the photo's aren't posting. If somebody can offer a tip on how to consistently get photo's to post on this forum, I would greatly appreciate it.

So I'll continue simply by stating that the wiring for tow harness/controller took the most time, simply because the interior panel removal/re-installation took a few tries. Also - the connector for the Volvo OEM hitch control ECU (provided by Stealth) is already wired - but on my car it was tucked out of site, taped and clipped in an area I could not see. Step 17 shows a photo of it - on my car - it was tucked back in the rectangular hole - I only found it by chance, by reaching up and feeling for something that felt like foam wrapping.

For the passenger side cargo compartment panel - you remove it from the front back. Intuitively you would think that you re-install from the back to the front. But it's very hard to get a tight fit this way. So re-install this panel by securing the front clips and working towards the back.

For the bumper cover - there is a curved clip that I found to be the most difficult to get right.

I'll edit this and add photo's if I'm able.
 

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thanks for the detail on this one, impressive. I have a '17 V90 CC, no hitch. I need a 2 bike rack for the back, and beyond that really no need for a hitch. I've been searching high and low for a rack system without hitch, to no avail for this wagon. have you seen anything out there for the V90?

Also, if I purchased a stealth hitch, I would pay someone to install it. Roughly how much did the hitch itself cost without install?

thanks ahead!
 

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Thanks a lot for documenting the most crucial steps and the detailed instructions!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for the detail on this one, impressive. I have a '17 V90 CC, no hitch. I need a 2 bike rack for the back, and beyond that really no need for a hitch. I've been searching high and low for a rack system without hitch, to no avail for this wagon. have you seen anything out there for the V90?

Also, if I purchased a stealth hitch, I would pay someone to install it. Roughly how much did the hitch itself cost without install?

thanks ahead!
If you don't need to tow, the cost is $668 for the receiver only package. Then you have to add shipping and whatever taxes in your region. You can see the cost on the Stealth Website: https://stealthhitches.com/products/volvo-v90-2017-present

For me (in Canada) shipping ended up being costlier than expected simply because Stealth used UPS, who charged exorbitant COD "Handling fees" (we're talking loan shark levels - LOL) simply for paying Cdn taxes on my behalf at the border. This more than doubled my shipping costs (in addition to my Federal/provincial taxes).

Installation of just the hitch (without wiring) is pretty simple as a DIY project - and if you went to a dealer - they should be able to do it within 2 hours (the most time probably doing the bumper cover cutout). Everything fit perfectly. The most time (for me) was spent doing the wiring harness and putting the interior panels back properly (which took a few tries).

Incidentally, I used my car over the weekend to tow to fill up my boat before winter storage (I like to store it with a full tank of stabilized fuel). Very short trip but the hitch and car were great. It's a very solid connection (no slack between the receiver and ball) so it felt very solid. My boat is around 3,000 lbs on the trailer and the car felt and handled fine. I use a tractor to pull the boat out of the water and move it around on my property, so didn't need to pull it up any boat ramps - but feel that the car would handle it no problem.

I have no doubt it will be great for my bike racks too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks a lot for documenting the most crucial steps and the detailed instructions!
No problem. I got fed up with trying to post photo's using my laptop - so added them later using Tapatalk (Not sure why this forum is so difficult to post photos?). Too lazy to type a lot of text using my phone so I'll fill in the details under the photos when I get a chance.
 

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Question for you - did you have to request the OEM tow hitch controller from Stealth? When I asked them, they mentioned that they just splice into brake lights, but other reports seem to suggest that they include the controller. I have a 2020 V60CC, but I imagine it's similar...
 

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If you don't need to tow, the cost is $668 for the receiver only package. Then you have to add shipping and whatever taxes in your region. You can see the cost on the Stealth Website: https://stealthhitches.com/products/volvo-v90-2017-present

For me (in Canada) shipping ended up being costlier than expected simply because Stealth used UPS, who charged exorbitant COD "Handling fees" (we're talking loan shark levels - LOL) simply for paying Cdn taxes on my behalf at the border. This more than doubled my shipping costs (in addition to my Federal/provincial taxes).

Installation of just the hitch (without wiring) is pretty simple as a DIY project - and if you went to a dealer - they should be able to do it within 2 hours (the most time probably doing the bumper cover cutout). Everything fit perfectly. The most time (for me) was spent doing the wiring harness and putting the interior panels back properly (which took a few tries).

Incidentally, I used my car over the weekend to tow to fill up my boat before winter storage (I like to store it with a full tank of stabilized fuel). Very short trip but the hitch and car were great. It's a very solid connection (no slack between the receiver and ball) so it felt very solid. My boat is around 3,000 lbs on the trailer and the car felt and handled fine. I use a tractor to pull the boat out of the water and move it around on my property, so didn't need to pull it up any boat ramps - but feel that the car would handle it no problem.

I have no doubt it will be great for my bike racks too.
Thanks much!......when you were researching this, did you find any "non-hitch" rear mounted bike rack systems that would fit the V90CC?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Question for you - did you have to request the OEM tow hitch controller from Stealth? When I asked them, they mentioned that they just splice into brake lights, but other reports seem to suggest that they include the controller. I have a 2020 V60CC, but I imagine it's similar...
It’s included with the Tow package. I checked the part number on the box and it was actually an XC controller but everything works including the line indicating your towbar. Volvo pre-wires the harness (tucks it away in the fender) so the controller just plugs in - no wire splicing required.

Since you have a V60 you also have the option of the Volvo OEM folding hitch. They have a North American version with a receiver (so can use with a bike rack). I would suggest comparing the two. The biggest advantage with the OEM hitch is that I believe you can fold it with the ball attached which is one last thing to store or forget.

I bought the Stealth towball/receiver storage case but if you want to carry it around - it takes up above-floor space which is already at a premium on these wagons.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks much!......when you were researching this, did you find any "non-hitch" rear mounted bike rack systems that would fit the V90CC?
Honestly, I didn’t look. I prefer to use tray type bike racks - so never use the type that hangs by the trunk/hatch and wouldn’t use a rack where my bike hangs by the frame. I already had a Kuat hitch rack so it was a just matter of getting the hitch.


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Honestly, I didn’t look. I prefer to use tray type bike racks - so never use the type that hangs by the trunk/hatch and wouldn’t use a rack where my bike hangs by the frame. I already had a Kuat hitch rack so it was a just matter of getting the hitch.


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cool thanks!
 

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Thanks! I have been comparing the two. Biggest reservation is OEM price ($$), smaller receiver (1.5"), and cutout. Stealth would be my preference, but only if it integrates with the safety materials. I'm guessing the V60 might not have the pre-wired harness tucked away as the V90 does... Thanks for the reply. I'm waiting for Stealth to respond and clarify!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks! I have been comparing the two. Biggest reservation is OEM price ($$), smaller receiver (1.5"), and cutout. Stealth would be my preference, but only if it integrates with the safety materials. I'm guessing the V60 might not have the pre-wired harness tucked away as the V90 does... Thanks for the reply. I'm waiting for Stealth to respond and clarify!

My own experience with a Class II receiver in my old car was good (I had reservations at first too). Within the limits of what a V60 could safely pull - a Class II (1.5") receiver is likely adequate. My previous car was a MB R-class Bluetec diesel which had the OEM hitch with 1.5" receiver. That car was rated for 3500 lbs but unofficially capable of far more - the hitch rating being the limitation. I used to store my boat in Toronto so would drive it to and from my cottage (2.5 hours on highway) every year. Absolutely no hitch problems and my boat pushed the upper Class II limits depending upon what was inside it. For me - the only inconvenience was that I had to replace my previous hitch rack (a Thule T2) which required a 2" receiver. I bought a Kuat Sherpa to replace it. Now - with the 2" in the Volvo - I had to install the 2" adapter on my Kuat rack - but everything fits tightly.

All things being equal, I too would prefer a 2" receiver. BUT... if there was an OEM hitch for the V90CC with a removable ball and a receiver - I might have gone with that strictly so I wouldn't have to think about where to store the ball/receiver attachments. I like having everything together so that I can tow at unexpected times (which I do a lot during the summer using a utility trailer to haul everything from tractor parts, lumber, bags of gravel/topsoil, to junk to the dump). The Stealth ball and receiver attachments are pretty large and far too big to fit underfloor.
 

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Assuming only a bike rack is used on the hitch, what happens to Pilot Assist? Is Pilot Assist disabled since there is something behind the bumper?

Thanks.
 

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Assuming only a bike rack is used on the hitch, what happens to Pilot Assist? Is Pilot Assist disabled since there is something behind the bumper?

Thanks.

In my experience, Pilot Assist works normally with my Stealth Hitch and 3-4 bikes on the rack.

The rear proximity sensors are fine with just the hitch attached, but just go off continuously if the rack is on, and the rack obstructs the camera to some degree.
 

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Curt #13305 (S90) worked great on my 2020 V90 Cross Country. It’s not approved by Curt, but given the similarities and SPA shared architecture, I tried it. Installed it myself in about 2 hours, pretty darn straightforward. However, I didn’t install any wiring since I’m only using it for a bike rack.
123689
123690
 

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Curt #13305 (S90) worked great on my 2020 V90 Cross Country. It’s not approved by Curt, but given the similarities and SPA shared architecture, I tried it. Installed it myself in about 2 hours, pretty darn straightforward. However, I didn’t install any wiring since I’m only using it for a bike rack.
Am I reading this right? Retail on this component is less than 1/3 the cost of a Stealth Hitches rack receiver. What are the downsides?
 

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Am I reading this right? Retail on this component is less than 1/3 the cost of a Stealth Hitches rack receiver. What are the downsides?
So far, no downsides although I haven't taken it off road at all to test clearance. That said, it hasn't hit my driveway yet either. i picked up the hitch on Amazon for ~$170, with free returns just in case it didn't work. Only deviation from instructions is that I cut out about 5 3/4" instead of 5" on the fascia. I'll get more pics this week and post.
 
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