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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have any information about how this can be done. The ballast being on the bottom of the headlight has caused me the lives of two ballasts and I want to install these and squirrel the external ballast away. Pictures would be AMAZING. This is rather urgent as I do not want a ticket. Secondly are the stock HID's 35w or 55w???

Another issue is the fact that I CANNOT seem to get the headlights to seal without condensing. I have ran a bead of silicone around them to seal the glass up but water is still getting in. Any suggestions?

Any recommendations are GREATLY appreciated.
 

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You def need to give us more details, like why are you putting silicon on your stock lights? Have you had them apart before or your front end been in a accident?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cars condensed since last year I figured a leaky Seal caused the leak so I silicones around the lens....still condensing. It's so friggin frustrating. I wanna get a new ballast but honestly ill need another in like 6 months any idea where it may be coming from?
 

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2 things. If you seal them correctly (and make sure the ballast at the bottom is sealed) there will be no condensation, also if you are getting some condensation pull the DRL rear access cover off to air it out.

Edit for important Q...did you actually take the glass off or are you trying to seal from the outside?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I haven't yet taken the glass off however I'm looking to buy some est lenses with this fix whatever it may include. I figured a full seal if silicone would fill in any holes. I do take off the deal access to air it out but it's getting to the point any moisture makes them leak. Sucks and the ballast is sealed by the included seal should I silicone that when I take it out? Sorry for the vagueness I'm just losing so much money on this stupid issue.
 

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55w can be done pretty easily. in fact any aftermarket slim ballast isn't that much of a headache. my most recent iteration, I've relocated them externally (vs in the oem cavity as I had previously done). made a custom alum cover for the oe opening, and ran the necessary wires out thru a small hole in it. ballasts mounted with 3m exterior tape. will take pics if I can think of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
55w can be done pretty easily. in fact any aftermarket slim ballast isn't that much of a headache. my most recent iteration, I've relocated them externally (vs in the oem cavity as I had previously done). made a custom alum cover for the oe opening, and ran the necessary wires out thru a small hole in it. ballasts mounted with 3m exterior tape. will take pics if I can think of it.
How long did it take for the mail order 55w any codes thrown and are they illegal?

Also does it utilize the stock socket?
 

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socket has to be modified - chop off the stupid proprietary connector and splice it to the one for the kit. no codes, not too challenging.

as to whether they are legal, i dont know the laws where you live. however, i might suggest that its a question of the intensity of the light, and where the light goes, rather than simple power consumption. for example - if your headlights are too high (very difficult with volvo) and blinding oncoming traffic thats bad. if they are effective and bright and help you avoid accidents with animals, thats good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Would 35w suffice I'm in a bind I really need to get some sort of kit or ballast by the weekend the kit is cheaper and may be better as I can keep it out of moistures way but still it's nice that you can splice the connecter that seems easy enough to do AJ do you like the slim ballast? Would 35w be an issue throw codes etc?
 

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Would 35w suffice I'm in a bind I really need to get some sort of kit or ballast by the weekend the kit is cheaper and may be better as I can keep it out of moistures way but still it's nice that you can splice the connecter that seems easy enough to do AJ do you like the slim ballast? Would 35w be an issue throw codes etc?
35 should work fine
 

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I was under the impression that the stock ballasts were 55w. Only reason I say that is because I tried a 30,000k blue bulb in both the Volvo and my Taurus (35w kit). In the Taurus it what a nice deep rich blue like expected but the Volvo had a drained out color which is a signature of the 55w ballasts. If it is indeed 35w I am curious as to why it drains the color and behaves like a 55w.
 

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30,000k bulbs? They might have a nice color but wont that be horrible for lighting up the road?
 

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I think you need to. Fix the problem rather than ignoring it my moving the ballasts. You really need to pull the lens, clean all the old sealant out, and reseal. I would even through them in the oven for a short period of time to make sure all the moisture is removed. I did this with mine when I did the euro mod and over a year later still no problems.

Cleaning it good and making a good seal is the key.
 

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30,000k bulbs? They might have a nice color but wont that be horrible for lighting up the road?
Oh ya. I only entertained the idea for a while. The light output wasn't the issue, it was the fact that everything on the road was blue. If a deer jumped out in front of me it would take my reaction time much longer because I would have to identify the shape only and not the color/shape. I hope that makes sense.

I now use 8000K in my headlights and the 30,000K are for my fogs
 

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I thought 30k color was purple? If you go to hid web sites that's what it shows.

But no err codes on 35 w ballast & if you wire them up outside the headlight assembly like I suggested it would be easy to swap ballasts down the road too. Just need a fresh piece of mounting tape.
 

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Have the DDM ballasts proved to last? How about the Ebay or other sourced kits that are $30-ish?

I recently re-lit my fogs with one of the cheapo kits and they work fine but I knew that for $32 I have low expectations and did it for the fact that Silverstars would have been more than the HID kit that came with bulbs. WAY impressed with my foglight improvement.
 
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