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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (Bulb Out Warning), flickering, and poor starting (theshadow27)

Looking through my server logs...

http://www.volvolandia.com/SVF...64.40

Google translate is not very good so I can't follow the entire thread, but if you guys can read this, 6.7mF is not enough! 15mF minimum and you really need 20-30mF to do a good job.

Edit: Mika, if you're still watching this, you can tell the fellow looking for EMI resistance that the problem is between the ballast and the bulb, not between the ECM and the ballast. The PWM in this case is far below radio frequency - 82hz would only cause problems if injected directly into an audio signal. The HV wires run several hundred khz, but in most setups there is shielded wire most of the way. If you are still worried the whole high-voltage wire may be wrapped in grounded aluminum foil. I've never heard of (modern) HID setups causing problematic interference.

Modified by theshadow27 at 6:54 PM 2-23-2010
 

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Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (theshadow27)

Nice job finding our Volvolandia!


If you read the thread further you'll find out that I've already tried to explain this and suggested 22mF caps. I've already suggested building your device in a few threads. I think we have already made a few devices with success.

What the fellow is trying to do is he's trying to make the wiper motor more "error" tolerant. Not really sure why he's doing this, I already explained it's not the problem, it's just the consequence. I think he's trying to add some protection to the wiper motor's network controller circuit.

We have a few more threads regarding HIDs in S40/V50, at least this one:
http://www.volvolandia.com/SVF...54.60

I'm surprised how many people actually haven't got any problems with the regular setup (just the HID kit).
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (mikamars)

Very cool! It's always exciting to see stuff go international.

Quote, originally posted by mikamars »
What the fellow is trying to do is he's trying to make the wiper motor more "error" tolerant. Not really sure why he's doing this, I already explained it's not the problem, it's just the consequence. I think he's trying to add some protection to the wiper motor's network controller circuit.

Hmm, seems a bit
to me. You can't add any filter to the CAN network - it will stop it from working and probably fry the controllers. CAN is already very error tolerant because it uses two wires and neither is ground-referenced, they are only compared to each other. The problem is the ground connection on the wiper motor, not the network itself.

And overall you are 100% correct about cause-effect. I don't think the wiper motor has ever failed on an unmodified vehicle.

Quote, originally posted by mikamars »

I'm surprised how many people actually haven't got any problems with the regular setup (just the HID kit).

Me too. Perhaps some kits are better than others? I do know that even on cars where the HID worked without a BOWE, adding one made the HIDs brighter and turn on quicker. That makes me think that the arc is going out and re-igniting 80 times per second, which is bad in many ways, especially for EMI...
 

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Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (theshadow27)

Quote, originally posted by theshadow27 »
I don't think the wiper motor has ever failed on an unmodified vehicle.

Absolutely correct, according to my Volvo dealer, wiper motors are pretty much never replaced in Volvos.

Quote, originally posted by theshadow27 »
Me too. Perhaps some kits are better than others? I do know that even on cars where the HID worked without a BOWE, adding one made the HIDs brighter and turn on quicker. That makes me think that the arc is going out and re-igniting 80 times per second, which is bad in many ways, especially for EMI...

When I started my conversion process I had cheap and obviously very lousy ballasts, which broke my wiper motor in a matter of days. I do think my new & better ballasts would last much longer without any problems, even without your device. I'm not going to try though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (mikamars)

Quote, originally posted by mikamars »
It's good to watch out for low quality ballasts



That's pretty bad... I'm glad I don't have a motor in the steering column (it's for the self parking)!

That said, Lexus = Toyota = Insane computers these days
 

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Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (mikamars)

I bought a set, they work with the BOW I built from the instructions above. I also have the slim kit 50W on my 600rr, and the slim ballast seems to be a better ballast. It will also fit onto the fender rail under the fender better than the larger raptor ballast.

With the raptor HID set (55w) there is a slight twitching with one of the bulbs for a few seconds during warmup. It seems to be less and less with more time on the bulbs. If you have a few extra $$ I'd go for the slim ballasts.

The install with the Apexcone/DDM kits are pretty easy, I drilled a hole on the backplate of the light, threw some silicone around the rubber seal (on the wires) and connected the leads... took about 30 minutes total. I didn't have to alter the harness up front at all, just under the glove box for the BOW.

I've had DDM HIDs for about 3 yrs without any problems, this was my 5th kit.

Hope that helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (mikamars)

Quote, originally posted by mikamars »

Or which DDM kit would you recommend for our Volvos?

As vinopa30 said, I'd stick with the slim ballasts. I have a pair myself and they work great:
http://www.ddmtuning.com/index...nt=60
(you have to pick 55w from the drop-down menu).

The primary advantage IMHO to the DDM slims is the price - so far they have outlasted "performance" halogen bulbs (Silverstars, US version suck) that I before, and they were around the same price. For that, I have no qualms buying a new pair if/when these burn out.

They are decent quality though, I did a comparison with some more expensive ballasts here:
http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/hidcomp.html
and they weren't much different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (vinopa30)

Quote, originally posted by vinopa30 »
I bought a set, they work with the BOW I built from the instructions above. ...I didn't have to alter the harness up front at all, just under the glove box for the BOW.

Out of curiosity, which car was this in? It aught to be in the list up top!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (vinopa30)

Quote, originally posted by vinopa30 »
08 c30

http://********************/smile/emthup.gif Thanks
 

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Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (vinopa30)

Quote, originally posted by vinopa30 »
Hope that helps!

Yes, it does. Thank you guys for your replies! I guess I'll order a set of those slim ballasts. Then I can put my old ones to my bike and our scooter (55W might be too much for a scooter, lol).

The international shipping is like 40 dollars, but it's still cheaper than most 55W hid kits I've found.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (theshadow27)

With any luck, this project will be available as a COTS box in the not-too-distant-future. In the meantime, version 3 uses SMD diodes, 25v caps, and enclosures that are already the correct size:













BTW it looks like there's a lot of stuff there, but that's only enough to build 5. The reason for the extra bits is it's the same price to order 5 boxes as it is 10, and the same price to order 5 grommets as 100. Stupid price breaks at quantity
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Re: HID/PWM issue DIY fix for BOW (mikamars)

Quote, originally posted by mikamars »
What's a COTS box?
Sorry, government acronym for Commercial Off The Shelf. As in, a store bought solution.
 

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Built and installed BOWE, still having problems, 2007 C30

Hello!

I need a bit of help with solving my aftermarket HID issue. After my HID kit burnt out the wiper motor immediately after installing it I found this thread and built the BOWE, I have also rerouted the ground wire for the right bulb, just to be sure.

After installing the BOWE both bulbs went on and off without issues for one day. After that, the right light won't start up anymore, no matter what I do. The wiper motor has not blown again fortunately, but the right bulb just won't start and the Bulb out Warning is always present.

I have rechecked the BOWE, since my soldering skills are not the best, but as far as I can tell it works - it's letting current through the right way around and when I replace the left and right wires on the BOWE, it's still the right bulb that doesn't work.

Is there anything I can do or should I just forget about the HID's?

In case that's relevant I have a 35W HID kit from a local dealer, the balasts have Canbus Pro written on them and according to the dealer the kit is supposed to work in any Canbus car without the need for additional BOW eliminators. Well, my blown wiper motor has another story to tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Sorry for responding to this so late, the forum migration seems to have wiped my subscribed threads.

After installing the BOWE both bulbs went on and off without issues for one day. After that, the right light won't start up anymore, no matter what I do. The wiper motor has not blown again fortunately, but the right bulb just won't start and the Bulb out Warning is always present.
It sounds to me like the ballast has died. As I explained in the original thread, running the ballast without the BOWE can potentially damage the ballast itself (as well as the car). I would try a new ballast or a new HID kit (for example the $30 DDM kit). And of course check the fuses.

In case that's relevant I have a 35W HID kit from a local dealer, the balasts have Canbus Pro written on them and according to the dealer the kit is supposed to work in any Canbus car without the need for additional BOW eliminators. Well, my blown wiper motor has another story to tell.
As for this, every car built since the 90's has a CAN bus for the OBD-II port. This is a marketing gimmick, there would be no advantage to hooking the ballast into the network unless you flashed the CEM to think it had the OEM Xenons, and even in that case it's hooked up over LIN and not CAN. The "canbus" brand has nothing to do with the Controller Area Network (CAN) bus - so your dealer was telling you BS.
 
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