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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone successfully replaced their lo and hi beam halogen headlight bulbs with either HID or LED bulbs? By successfully I mean properly fitting them inside the headlamp housing without any issues. If so can you share your project - HID or LED bulb brand and source, picture of the back side with dust covers, how long has it been in place, etc. I am aware that you will need to drill a hole on the dust cover to accommodate the ballast wires (for HID) or the driver wires (for LED). I tried this last year with an LED but the base of the bulb was a bit long and pushing on the dust cover. So I set the project aside.

HIDs bulbs may be more compact and would probably work better.
 

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LED.

Morimoto 2 Stroke 2.0 in H7. Fits behind the cap, all contained internally. Bought from The Retrofit Source.

Hights for the -04 glass headlight cars are 9005 so a HIR1 bulb is a very good halogen upgrade, no need to go to HID/LED.
 

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Working an HID Bi-xenon projector retrofit right now. Using the Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 projectors. The reflector is only 105mm tall, so most shrouds need to be trimmed top and bottom. If you have an 05+ with the plastic lenses, they take some work to get apart. The link below has my efforts so far. Scroll to the bottom.

https://forums.swedespeed.com/#/topics/588681
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Working an HID Bi-xenon projector retrofit right now. Using the Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 projectors. The reflector is only 105mm tall, so most shrouds need to be trimmed top and bottom. If you have an 05+ with the plastic lenses, they take some work to get apart. The link below has my efforts so far. Scroll to the bottom.

https://forums.swedespeed.com/#/topics/588681
Thanks. But link does not go to post.
 

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Hmmm. Works when native on SwedeSpeed.com, but not using Tapatalk.
 

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https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...hare_pid=7190503&share_fid=17438&share_type=t

In the quest to find a brighter H11 I went ahead and bought a 4 sets of cheap LED lamp from Amazon.ca to test out.



From left to right:

OE Osram H11 - Halogen

Safego - https://www.amazon.ca/Safego-Headli...safego+h11&dpPl=1&dpID=51Wn5EqLPSL&ref=plSrch

FSM
https://www.amazon.ca/FMS-Headlight...ds=FMS+H11&dpPl=1&dpID=51d8iY6ID8L&ref=plSrch

Nighteye
https://www.amazon.ca/NIGHTEYE-Head...ghteye+H11&dpPl=1&dpID=51EbvhBBIDL&ref=plSrch

Sealight
https://www.amazon.ca/SEALIGHT-Upgr...SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sealight+H11&psc=1]

Brand names don't really mean too much. In my searches I've found many lamps, including the ones listed above, under different names or with mismatched emitters and heatsink. The reason I chose to test these 4 is each of the lamps has the emitter positioned close to where the halogen filament would sit on a halogen lamp. Small, narrow, and thin emitters will create a desirable beam pattern. Measuring the emitters show's there quite a difference between them. Was trying to only purchase LEDs with passive heatsinks, but the Safego had good reviews.

H11 Halogen
Height - 5mm
Width - 1.9mm
(tried to break one open to measure the filament, but I forgot how much pressure the bulbs are under . So this is a rough eye ball with the calipers through the bulb)


Nighteye
LED Height - 5.8mm
LED Width - 1.6mm
Split - 4.4mm



Sealight
LED Height - 5.2mm
LED Width - 1.1mm
Split - 3.7mm



Safego
LED Height - 5mm
LED Width - 2mm
Split - 2.75mm *emitter is recessed into housing. True split is less.




FSM
LED Height - 6.7mm
LED Width - 1.7mm
Split - 6.1mm



Beam patterns. I locked the camera settings for all pictures. All test were done only using the left side headlight at 25'. Overall, patterns for all of the lamps look ok. All lamps were quite easy to seat in the headlight and there's adequate room for the heatsinks. The Sealight being the dimmest seems to be the most comparable to the halogen. The nighteye and FSM were ok, but the cutoff did not look as clean. The Safego is by far the brightest, cutoff and pattern is good. I installed the other Safego into the right side and took it for a test drive.





They are very bright, and they look quite sharp. Light is thrown out quite a bit with a clean cut off. With properly adjusted headlights they do not glare. There is a hot spot in the middle, but the halogens also had the same spot, just less intense. I'm going to run the Safego for now as I'm quite happy with them. The H9 I will keep as a halogen, possibly get a colour matched Philips. Testing the LEDs in the H9 seems to have less intensity than halogen. Even though the LED is brighter, the Halogen has a more focused hot spot. I will be swapping out he H1 fogs to LEDs.

All the lamps had a faint flicker to them only really noticeable at low engine RPM, I'm sure there's a fix for that, but it's not too annoying. Also, the low-beam failure is triggered.

Hopefully this was helpful. Was a quick and easy experiment, did it in the grocery store parking lot since I'm there most the time anyways. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Cheers.

Update:
So I've decided that the Safego are a bit too bright for the lowbeam. While the cutoff is good, there is still quite a bit of light thrown out by them. I've swapped in the Sealight lamps and they are much easier on the eyes, as well as maintaining a decent amount out light output. I swapped in the Safego into the H9 HighBeam position.

Sealight Lows (Alleyway is on a slight downhill)


Sealight Lows/Safego Highs




I've got one more lamp I'd like to test out, as well as one for the H1 fog lights.
 

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You will need load resistors to cancel out the bulb warnings.

https://www.amazon.com/d/Headlight-...rsion-8400LM-Replacements-Headlamp/B07CL15ZVB

Currently using this lamp in the low beam. I find that the beam pattern is better and less intense (fewer hot spots) than the ones previously tested. The fans can be a little noisey, but can't be heard over the engine noise when running.



Sent from my ZTE B2017G using Tapatalk
 

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Don't drill holes in dust covers, just tap into the + wires at the harness connector. Then put in a 4-6 ohm resistor in between to body Gnd.

Do not put resistors inside the housing, they will melt any plastic it touches and it will fill with smoke. They should be mounted to metal or somewhere away from plastic. (i mounted mine on an aluminum plate attached to the radiator support)

The "decoder" boxes doesnt work with volvos. Just use a basic load resistor.


Same applied with rest of bulbs on car. They need at least 6-8ohm load resistor. Only headlights may need 4ohm. (i combined 6+20 ohm in parallel to create 4.5 ohm because 6 was not enough in my case)

edit: my headlight resitor plate

 

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I have to used tinsince LEDs they are pretty bright but the cutoff seems good for an led. Slightly different to the ones mentioned by @Antherzoll
I have not installed my load resistors yet. I plan on doing that soon..
Unfortunately this is the only picture I have of them lol. I do wish they were more like 5k in color temp since I prefer that OE look. But this will work till I start my retrofit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739N7QPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RywOCbR3ESNSN


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for sharing especially Antherzoll's project. One thing you did not mention is how you addressed running the wires out because I am guessing that all the LED cables and driver does not fit inside the housing??
 

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Thanks for sharing especially Antherzoll's project. One thing you did not mention is how you addressed running the wires out because I am guessing that all the LED cables and driver does not fit inside the housing??
Everything that I tested fits in the housing with the cover on.

Sent from my ZTE B2017G using Tapatalk
 

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I am running bi-xenon projectors with HIDs in mine. It was pretty much plug and play. Hardest part was probably trimming the projector shrouds to fit the housings. Otherwise just bolts in.

The projectors I am using are cheapy Ebay units. They get the job done for me. If you want better quality and crisper cutoff you can get Morimotos. They install the same way.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-3-0-H1-...395413?hash=item1ea69e0f95:g:0pgAAOSwyUpcok2U

I had to drill a hole in the cap for wiring but otherwise no other mods.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Everything that I tested fits in the housing with the cover on.

Sent from my ZTE B2017G using Tapatalk
Thanks. Did any of them have driver boxes?
 

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Picture of load resistors I mounted in factory bolt locations. They are mounted to painted steel. I had to get h11 extension so I can mount them somewhere safe because they do get hot.


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Has anyone successfully replaced their lo and hi beam halogen headlight bulbs with either HID or LED bulbs?
While you can successfully put one of these bulbs in there, you can't get better light with any of them.


For more detail on it (from actual engineers who work on this stuff);
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?380558-What-s-wrong-with-projector-retrofits

and
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...2001-Vehicle&p=4533560&viewfull=1#post4533560

and
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?387680-LED-headlight-bulbs-illegal
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
So the tests Antherzoll did are no good? Light brightness can work both ways. If halogens do not provide adequate lighting for the driver in can be unsafe. I believe this why people "upgrade" in order to see better. I would think that if you find the right balance of light intensity that will make the driver drive safely while not too intense to affect other drivers then I don't see the problem.

These articles were also posted in 2014. Lots of progress have been made since and it changes almost every day.
 

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Great information! Thanks for sharing your conversions and output pictures!
 

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I have load resistors and attempted using them when converting to LED, instead did the method found on the forums about drilling a hole into the headlight resistor shunt. I have spares I can offer anyone who wants them.
 

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Also worth noting, if anyone tries the shunt hole drilling method, start with a very small hole. The first time I tried it, the hole I drilled was too large and it resulted in my headlights not working at all.
 
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