SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
I believe the HIDs use a different connector to the headlight itself and are wired somewhat differently. You need to download the Volvo Electronic Wiring Diagram Tool and compare the Halogen wiring to the HID wiring. There's also definitely going to be a software swap that needs to happen for the CEM to recognize the voltage differences between an HID system and a Halogen system with the PWM and such. It's not plug and play, for sure. There's likely not going to be any software on a halogen car to allow it to recognize that headlight control module, since I'm fairly certain it's an HID exclusive component and it handles the role of properly supplying the ballast for the factory system with the PWM monitoring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
I believe you need to disable DRLs too, either through software or the wiring mod to the headlight switch (which forces the headlights on full in all positions). This way you aren't trying to drive the ballasts with a low voltage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
I believe you need to disable DRLs too, either through software or the wiring mod to the headlight switch (which forces the headlights on full in all positions). This way you aren't trying to drive the ballasts with a low voltage.
I believe this is correct. The HIDs don’t run with a “low power” setting like halogens can. I just disabled my DRLs entirely.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
I believe this is correct. The HIDs don’t run with a “low power” setting like halogens can. I just disabled my DRLs entirely.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The dealer is disabling mine right now via software, among other repairs. Will be swapping in "E46" projectors, Morimoto D2S HID kit, and making my own SKBOWE kit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
I have been thinking of retrofitting the OEM xenon headlights to my car, unfortunately I am a bit cheap and haven't found the parts for a reasonable cost, yet..


Anyway, from my foundings you need to obviously change the projector and get the ballast, leveling sensors for the front and rear control arm and the new interior light switch without the manual adjustment if you had that before. Last by not least you also have to change the car configuration in the CEMs flash memory. Volvo Vida will NOT support this in any way as this is according to Volvo "impossible" but aftermarket software or soldering into the MCU and changing the car configuration in CEM will do for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
I have been thinking of retrofitting the OEM xenon headlights to my car, unfortunately I am a bit cheap and haven't found the parts for a reasonable cost, yet..


Anyway, from my foundings you need to obviously change the projector and get the ballast, leveling sensors for the front and rear control arm and the new interior light switch without the manual adjustment if you had that before. Last by not least you also have to change the car configuration in the CEMs flash memory. Volvo Vida will NOT support this in any way as this is according to Volvo "impossible" but aftermarket software or soldering into the MCU and changing the car configuration in CEM will do for sure.
I’ve heard a lot of conjecture on what those sensors actually are. I thought they were headlight leveling but I have one on the front and the rear for my AWD car and the rear doesn’t have any headlights. I think on pre facelift cars, those black sensors are for the AWD system.

I think I recall seeing software on the new VIDA to add the xenon configuration, for US cars on pre facelift anyway. You also may need to switch wiring harnesses. Each xenon headlight has a “headlight control module” mounted in the upper front wheel well also. I’m not sure if this is more software you’d need or what.

CEM/fuses/etc > headlight control module > headlight housing > ballast > bulb ignites


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
832 Posts
I’ve heard a lot of conjecture on what those sensors actually are. I thought they were headlight leveling but I have one on the front and the rear for my AWD car and the rear doesn’t have any headlights. I think on pre facelift cars, those black sensors are for the AWD system.

I think I recall seeing software on the new VIDA to add the xenon configuration, for US cars on pre facelift anyway. You also may need to switch wiring harnesses. Each xenon headlight has a “headlight control module” mounted in the upper front wheel well also. I’m not sure if this is more software you’d need or what.

CEM/fuses/etc > headlight control module > headlight housing > ballast > bulb ignites


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Rear sensors are also for headlights :p you get a front and rear level sensor so the car can compare them and figure out how level the whole car is sitting; if you have a heavy load in the trunk, it'll squat the rear down but not so much the front, pointing the headlights higher. The angle on both sensors is compared, the difference calculated, and the levelers in the headlights adjusted accordingly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
Rear sensors are also for headlights :p you get a front and rear level sensor so the car can compare them and figure out how level the whole car is sitting; if you have a heavy load in the trunk, it'll squat the rear down but not so much the front, pointing the headlights higher. The angle on both sensors is compared, the difference calculated, and the levelers in the headlights adjusted accordingly.
I’m pretty sure my headlight levelers ceased to operate long ago :p You don’t get that fancy directional xenon system the facelift cars had.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
You can get xenon headlights without aiming. Check out car-part.com. You can get a pair for starting around $450, but they will need to be restored more than likely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
You can get xenon headlights without aiming. Check out car-part.com. You can get a pair for starting around $450, but they will need to be restored more than likely.
I get them for about $150 a pop off of eBay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Order the PCBs from here OSH Park ~

I got 3 of them (1 spare) and it was really cheap. Took a few weeks to get tho. I got all the CCA parts from Digikey, wire and potting from Amazon, cases from Polycase, and I already had the metal braid for the ground wire. Soldered it all together in 2 hrs. Gonna pot the assemblies in the cases tomorrow hopefully.

I also got 9006 connectors from Amazon to hook everything up. Hope to install this weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Order the PCBs from here OSH Park ~

I got 3 of them (1 spare) and it was really cheap. Took a few weeks to get tho. I got all the CCA parts from Digikey, wire and potting from Amazon, cases from Polycase, and I already had the metal braid for the ground wire. Soldered it all together in 2 hrs. Gonna pot the assemblies in the cases tomorrow hopefully.

I also got 9006 connectors from Amazon to hook everything up. Hope to install this weekend.
Thanks, keep me updated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
I finished up making the SKBOWE's last night. For the diode heat sinks I used copper tape a few layers thick. Not sure if the heat sinks are necessary given the thermally conductive potting compound.

The 832-TC thermal potting compound was a real PITA. It was likely chosen because it's cheap and readily available on Amazon. It's super thick and messy. It does thin out at higher temps, so if I were to do it again with the 832-TC I would heat the SKBOWE and the mixed epoxy for like 15 mins at 150F in the oven (not long enough for it to cure), then quickly take it out and pour while its warm and thin. I cured in the oven at 150F for 2 hrs. Some leaked out and needs clean up but should be no issue. I mixed it be weight (1.1:1) instead of by volume (1:1), which is much easier. 300g total was about right.

However, I would like to find a thinner (less viscous) thermally conductive potting compound/epoxy. I would bond on the back cover of the case and drill a fill hole on the same side as where the wires exit the case. Then slowly fill the unit through the fill hole. This would be significantly cleaner.

Gonna try to install everything this weekend including swapping the projectors.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top