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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
UPDATED: HID Fog Light Install and Impressions

[edit] - updated impressions below.

I found this upgrade to be a bit harder than expected, and would've appreciated some tips prior to the installation. I anticipated plug-n-play like my buddy's GTI, but those Swedes kept it challenging for us! Hopefully this will be helpful to someone out there.

Why:
I wanted something to supplement the high beams on the back roads. It's never foggy here so turning the fogs into "driving lights" made sense and it's an inexpensive mod.

What:
I ordered the 55w set from DDM Tuning with H3 bulbs @ 4500K. These are a good match for my stock headlight color. I also went with lower temp bulbs in case I ever do need real fog lights and figured 4500K would be better than 6000K for example.

Note that I ordered the older style DDM kit that seems to have been replaced with the "Raptor" kit. The only difference looks like the ballasts are bigger now, so the info below should be the same for the new kit.

Issue #1 - not typical:
The passenger side back fog cover could not be removed because the main bulb housing had come loose from the assembly. If you find that twisting the back cover twists the whole housing, you have the same problem. We ended up removing the whole assembly then we were able to pry off the back cover and bend back the tabs that hold the housing to the assembly. A big time waster, but fixable.

Modifying the cover:
Once you have access to the bulbs, the typical method is to drill a large hole in the back cover and use the provided grommet to fill the hole. Looking at the cover though, there is a small square cap that fits over an opening leading to a channel inside the cover.


4 wires need to pass into the cover and there is plenty of room for them in the channel. You will have to cut/splice 2 of the wires though since their ends are too big to pass through. The wires with spade connector ends fit through just fine. I used heat-shrink crimp connectors from RadioShack and they worked really well. I like this method since it keeps the cover intact and you don't have to deal with trimming to fit the grommet or using any silicon sealer.


Issue #2 - only for DDM?
Someone said that the DDM bulbs are longer than other kits and to get everything to fit under the cap we had to remove the channel that is inside the cover. A hot-knife or dremmel will do.


Install note:
Mounting the ballasts was done with zip ties and some really awesome 3-M "VHB" tape also from the 'Shack. It was in stock at my local store. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103344# The stuff is super sticky.

UPDATED: Impression/Results:
Initially I was a little disappointing with the light output; it was "fill" lighting but that was about it. I went back and aimed the fogs up a bit and also did a slight upward adjustment of the headlights and WHAMMO: huge difference!

The fogs aren't as bright as the low beams, but they are fine by themselves for city driving IMO. When used with the low or high beams (a not-free software install is required to keep them on with the high beams) and you get a significant increase in light output.

For around $50 this is a must-do mod for anyone who wants more light. This solved for me one of the few weakness of the R. 'm not sure how the actually foggy-weather driving is affected though, but it's not an issue for where I live.


Shown installed with small channel cap replaced:


Out of curiosity though, does anyone know what that "channel" is for? Since the small cap has an open bottom I figured there was no need to silicone around the opening.

Side note too, you don't need the bulb-out warning cancelers.
 

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good idea, although the spliced wires will be prone to water getting to them and shorting the system.

be sure to seal the hole or your fogs fill start fogging-up inside
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
good idea, although the spliced wires will be prone to water getting to them and shorting the system.

be sure to seal the hole or your fogs fill start fogging-up inside
The splices are heat-shrunk really well, I don't see that being an issue.

Yeah though, that is the curious part. The pass-through is not sealed though from the factory - the cap is open on the bottom as stock and leads into the housing.
 

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What do you have the ballast wired to as the on/off "trigger"? If you're using the stock wiring harness, did you get a software update to keep the fogs on with the high beams?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, I got the "Euro Fog" software install.
 

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Awesome write up, thank you. I actually thought about doing the same project but after reading the impressions, I decided not to. I thought that the light output may e strong enough to substitute low beam (silly).

And in regards to that channel, perhaps it is intended to keep the moisture out, just like regular light housing? Does not work either way though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I updated the write up. See first message.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do you have any problem with the 55w in the small fog housings?
Coming up on 6 months later and doing fine. I don't run them all the time though, just when I need extra lighting or in the rain or when I want to look cool.
 

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Coming up on 6 months later and doing fine. I don't run them all the time though, just when I need extra lighting or in the rain or when I want to look cool.
I ,ight have to try the 55w... My 35w are not cutting it and I have a spare pair laying around I think.
 

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The splices are heat-shrunk really well, I don't see that being an issue.

Yeah though, that is the curious part. The pass-through is not sealed though from the factory - the cap is open on the bottom as stock and leads into the housing.
Thread revival. The only issue with Jozooka's install is that if a bulb needs a replacement, you'll need to redo the splicing/heat shrink method all over again. I recently had to replace my DDM bulbs which were at the verge of burning out, With the hole behind the cap method, all I had to do was replace the new bulb + harness + rubber grommit. A 15 minute job which includes removing the bumper.
 
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