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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new here. I have a 2006 V77 2.5T, 5sp auto, with about 130k mi. on it. I'm looking to do a few upgrades to tighten up the suspension, free up the exhaust and in just in general make it a more fun to drive vehicle. Being on a fixed income means I have to do this in stages. I'm thinking. 10mm wheel spacers, cat back exhaust, and new shocks and struts. It already has a k&n air filter. Sway bars? Bushing? Suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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Welcome to the V70 and Volvo family!

Before starting down the mod trail, make sure the basics are up to snuff, or as we like to say "Stage 0".

If they haven't been done recently, timing belt and PCV service. Check all the rubber intake couplers after the turbo. They tend to leak as they get older.

After that, a transmission fluid replacement is wise. Possibly engine mounts, upper and lower torque rods at a minimum. Then, probably lower control arms. Probably shocks and struts too.

If you're lucky, the previous owner took care of all that. These cars can get a bit needy after 10 years and 125k miles. But, once you take care of those items, you should be good for a while.

I've done all those items (except for the timing belt and struts) on my 07 V70 2.5T after I bought it with 138k on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply. The timing belt and water pump were done about 6 mo. ago. I'm keeping with the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual (which was in the vehicle when I bought it!). So far my service provider says everything is fine. Due for another scheduled maintenance in about 5k. It looks like the previous owner took good care of her.
 

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Sounds like you have a good starting point.

Brake upgrades are usually an inexpensive place to start. You can upgrade from the base 288mm front rotors to the 305mm from the T5 models. Just need the caliper bracket, pads, and rotors. Some of the XC90 front and rear brakes are larger and compatible. Finally, you can go for the R model 4-piston Brembo calipers and 330mm rotors. But, only certain wheels will fit them.

For better performance, a tune and downpipe are the best bets. The smaller 14T turbo in the 2.5Ts doesn't have a lot of top end. Upgrading to a 16T is possible. But, a bit more money. The 2.5T won't reliably make big HP due to the thinner cylinder walls. So, don't get too carried away.

Handling can be improved with better struts and shocks as a starting point. A rear sway bar from a T5 model will help handling. There are larger aftermarket sway bars available. Lowering springs are also available.

Exhaust-wise, removing the resonator and replacing with a straight pipe will improve the sound a little bit. Everything else will be cat back and $500 and up.

That's everything I can think of in a nutshell!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, Wasn't planning on doing the brakes, but thinking about it, it makes sense. Will start with shocks and struts. then brakes, then sway bar(s), then the tune and cat back, and finally if I change wheels and tires, the wheel shims.
 

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Delrin subframe bushings. It’s the single largest improvement you can make to these cars. As factory the front subframe is soft mounted and wiggles about under the car.
 

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Sway bars (BOTH bars, not just one bar, from ipd) is the largest improvement you can do, bushings are next.
Change the oil MUCH sooner, every 5K miles, NOT 7500 or more, and change over to FULL SYNTHETIC OIL RIGHT NOW!
 

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Sway bars (BOTH bars, not just one bar, from ipd) is the largest improvement you can do, bushings are next.
Change the oil MUCH sooner, every 5K miles, NOT 7500 or more, and change over to FULL SYNTHETIC OIL RIGHT NOW!
Agreed on the oil. Mobil/Castrol Euro 0w40 or rotella t6 5w40 are popular among members.

Disagree on the sway bars. P2 front bar is pointless to change as they’re already 24mm factory on the fwd cars. Rear bar from a later t5 can be had for a quarter the price of IPDs kit from Volvo new. Making a super stiff understeer biased suspension setup is not brilliant. Making the front subframe into a chassis brace and thus making the steering crisper, stiffening the frame, retaining the alignment is much more beneficial. Full delrin replacement subframe bushings made by Kaphlenke not the I Paid Double poly inserts.
 

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Thanks for the tip on the Kaphlenke bushings, looks like lowering the front subframe is part of the procedure for installing the front Sway Bar. Just ordered them, been behind on the new F & R sway bar install due to work, another few days waiting for the bushings will save going in there twice.

Best Regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Quick question: If I install bigger brakes (i.e. 288mm to 305 mm) will I have to replace the brake rotor shield or will the stock one be ok?
 

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Quick question: If I install bigger brakes (i.e. 288mm to 305 mm) will I have to replace the brake rotor shield or will the stock one be ok?
Stock works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK: thanks everyone. I have another question. If I install 10mm wheel spacers will I need new studs or lug bolts?
 

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you will need a stud conversion or longer bolts to match (usually come with).

Also just to add to everyone else. If you live to a pick n pull yard that has volvos you can get many upgrades at a good price if you are good with tools (T5 brake brackets/Xc90 brakes, later T5 bigger sways, Xenons, 16t, T5 OTE pipe, steering wheels etc) at a fraction of the price.
 
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