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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my car has the premium amp. So, I think the feed from the dash is low level or even MOST back to the amp right? Does this mean I need to run speaker wires from the dash all the way back to the amp and tap into the speaker wires there? Am I missing something?

Here is the difference in the two setups. I think I have B and I will need to connect at 16/105 in the back 1/4 panel of the car.



Here is why I need to know :D











 

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Rad! Hopefully install goes smooth, I've been looking at those for a little bit now!

You have a microphone in your overhead console? Cutout for it is right in front of the seatbelt indicator. That would be my indicator on if the setup was infact A or B.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There is a cutout but ill have to check if there is a mic, thanks. Do you know if at the amp is the best place to tap?
 

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There is a cutout but ill have to check if there is a mic, thanks. Do you know if at the amp is the best place to tap?
No idea, but hopefully someone will chime in soon. My sound is the basic variant, I would be running new wires from the head unit. When I was running my mic, there was a foam insert in the cutout where the mic should be.

Good luck!

Sent from my Redmi Note 2 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·


It was varient B. Man that amp in the rear was heavy! With that plus the 6 CD changer + the factory DVD and nav screen I probably saved 10 lbs! This was by far the hardest sterio install I have done in a LONG time. It just F'in sucked. I ended up tiying in the speaker wires at the rear amp connector in the hatch. Had to cut the fiberglass GRP in the dash. My hands have been itching for 10 hours!

But...... it was worth it. The system is SWEET. I now have streaming and google + Waze nav.

Action shots over the next few days... I promise ;)
 

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Something abut your install pic doesn't wash.... In the earlier picture where you are holding the unit up against the aluminum waterfall, the unit looks slightly smaller than the outer perimeter of the aluminum which would leave a nice, narrow frame of the aluminum around the face of the unit. But in your install picture, it looks like you have cut the aluminum and the width of the unit goes exactly to the outside edge of the waterfall.

What about the climate display?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Its all about perspective. There is still a lip of the aluminum left but I crinkle coat painted it because I didn't like the thin little strip of aluminium. It just didn't look right. Plus I scratched up the top of the silver when trimming part of it :( The climate display is currently just hanging but I will relocate it to the sunglasses holder spot once the MOST fiber optic extension cable comes in. Cant leave it unplugged.... I wouldn't know what the climate control was set at.

FWIW I think you may have to root the unit to get it to talk with an OBDII bluetooth scanner propperly. I cant seem to get Torque Pro to talk to the BT adapter. The in dash connects to it but the system never asks for a pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·


One thing I didnt get connected. Anyone know what adapter I need for the antenna?
 

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One thing I didnt get connected. Anyone know what adapter I need for the antenna?
CT27AA35 CT27AA58 are the part numbers I bought for my FM transmitter.

Looks like so, with the clip in the middle.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-aerial-adapters-DIN-connectors-when-using-FM-modulator-CT27AA35-CT27AA58-/221478524534?hash=item3391261676:g:vuQAAOxy3zNSgpw7&vxp=mtr


Edit: Guess you just need the one... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Stereo-Volvo-to-DIN-Aerial-Adapter-Lead-Connects2-CT27AA35-/251803363654?hash=item3aa0a66946:g:M70AAOSw1vlUwSBp

Part Number: CT27AA35
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Thanks, I was googling everywhere! But good lord that's expensive for a connector. Oh well.... purchased. Thanks so much!

Funny thing is, now that I have this unit working I doubt I will listen to the radio as often.

Edit: for those interested in doing something similar. Thats $30+ for this adapter and another $6 for a MOST jumper and another $50 for a fiber optic extension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
The writeup:

1. First pull the power connection on the battery. You will find out why later.
2. Next pull the waterfall & remove electronics.
3. Remove GRP cross brace inside the dash.
4. Cut the waterfall to match the new stereo.
5. Pull trim from both driver side door stills. Front and rear.
6. Pull trim from rear driver side strut tower.
7. Pull rear ¼ panel trim in hatch/truck
8. Remove 3 10mm nuts holding the amp&GPS receiver in place.
9. Unplug all cables from amp assembly.
10. Note that the large white and black wires on their own plug are the power and ground for the amp. This plug stays hot even when the key is off. At least for a while so that the amp stays online with the MOST bus.
11. Pull wires from the waterfall area around the drivers side of the car under the carpet (its easier than your think).
12. I chose to tap in ALL of my speaker feeds at the amp since it was one single point. See the wiring diagram above for the correct connections. Also note that the wires may be slightly different color due to age. The speaker connector has the pin numbers printed on it. Go by those.
13. Power- I chose to run a large power wire along with the speaker wires since I wanted to retain the factory fuse location. I tapped the 12V+ power at the amp. I know its not the best place but I was already pulling wires there.
14. Next connect the accessory sensor wire for the amp. I chose to use the cigaret lighter plug since it is switched with the key.
15. Now find a good ground. You could use the cigaret lighter ground but there are many others and the wires are small.
16. Now, connect the MOST jumper in place of the stock CD player.
17. (optional) connect the steering wheel controls to the key 1 and key 2 inputs on the unit.
18. Dimmer. You could connect some of the dash lights to the dimmer input. I'm not 100% sure but I think the light in the hazard button dims with the dash. I have not used this feature yet. I still have to pull the unit back out to remove the sock navigation display and player.
19. Find somewhere else for the DIMM climate control display. In my case I will be locating it in the sunglass holder above the driver. But the MOST cable will reach the stock nav location spot. I have seen others move the display there. I want that space for gauges so I am installing a 2 meter MOST fiber extender to go around the windshield.

Mmmm very 90's GTR. I hope the G-meter works ;)

I need to clean up my paint a little when I pull the waterfall back out for the DIMM relocation but this is how it will ultimately look with a little more clean up. That is the only reason the rear plastic cover is not back on. I am also adding some hidden switches back there for my exhaust cutout, DSTC disable and a few other things.

Note the little gap on the left because I didn't trim enough material and the plastic tabs on the head unit are pushing the aluminum out. It will be flush with more trimming. Also, the head unit looks offset again perspective since I was sitting in the drivers seat.


 

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Thanks, I was googling everywhere! But good lord that's expensive for a connector. Oh well.... purchased. Thanks so much!

Funny thing is, now that I have this unit working I doubt I will listen to the radio as often.

Edit: for those interested in doing something similar. Thats $30+ for this adapter and another $6 for a MOST jumper and another $50 for a fiber optic extension.
My thoughts exactly...

Dig the radio! I think I might have to follow suite if I can get these drive train issues worked out.

Sent from my Redmi Note 2 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I finally was able to get the unit to remember the ELM327 pin and connect Torque. Something neat I found out. The newest version of Torque Pro automatically tacks fastest ET 1/4 and 1/8th mile runs. I have had a couple of glitches with Pandora on the unit but for the most part it works well. I think the issues are related to the wireless tether through wifi on my phone. This wont matter when my USB GSM adapter comes in. I need to mess with the Eonon settings some since it keeps coming up in bluetooth connect screen rather than radio etc..

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
FYI for anyone planning to do this install, i just confirmed that the dimmer feed on the hazard button can be used for the stereo. Convenient.
 

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This is turning out to be a wicked mod, I'm following closely! Keep up the fantastic work! I know I'm dreaming but just imagine "Vida/Dice for Android" once again I know I'm dreaming.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Im running Torque Pro, msDroid and another logger app. I have yet to attempt connection to both the OBD2 port and the Megasquirt via Bluetooth simultaneously. Im hoping to set the logging to the same frequency and dump bothe the OBD2 and Megasquirt logs into a single time sinked file based on the android clock.

Update: I just ordered a plastic waterfall so that I can get a cleaner cut and recess the Eonon further into the dash for a flush look.
 

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Im running Torque Pro, msDroid and another logger app. I have yet to attempt connection to both the OBD2 port and the Megasquirt via Bluetooth simultaneously. Im hoping to set the logging to the same frequency and dump bothe the OBD2 and Megasquirt logs into a single time sinked file based on the android clock.

Update: I just ordered a plastic waterfall so that I can get a cleaner cut and recess the Eonon further into the dash for a flush look.
Hows the sound quality? I have a Facelift Armrest / Waterfall that I would probably be installing concurrently. Interested to hear how this unit has been working for you so far. I've got a 6 hour drive to a work class coming up in a few weeks and think that might make a perfect chance to test her out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The sound is better than most stock stereo head units. However it is not nearly as full as the Volvo amp that came out. Actually the OE amp seemed a bit too bassy. I think they did that to give the impression of premium sound lol.

If you like it loud and some crazy bass I suggest you use the line outs and feed an aftermarket amp located where the volvo amp was. There is power and speaker wires there anyway.

All in all I am satisfied with the sound quality. I didnt expect much for $200 and all those features. Its cheap and Chinese. You get what you pay for. Overall I am VERY happy with the unit. Im a little afraid to root it though. There are some nagging little things that rooting would fix. But those are just personal preference.
 
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