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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '97 960 with 48k miles on it.

I just finished one of my 120 miles trips and the next day when I woke up and turn the car on the CHECK ENGINE light comes on the W S E lights are blinking back and forth (the lights near the gear box), then I tried to drive it and it wouldn't go over 30mph so I took it back home. Then 4 hours later it worked fine but the check engine light was still on?

grr i'm poor I can't pay people to fix this

hehe
 

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quote:

Originally posted by gar598:
I have a '97 960 with 48k miles on it.

I just finished one of my 120 miles trips and the next day when I woke up and turn the car on the CHECK ENGINE light comes on the W S E lights are blinking back and forth (the lights near the gear box), then I tried to drive it and it wouldn't go over 30mph so I took it back home. Then 4 hours later it worked fine but the check engine light was still on?

grr i'm poor I can't pay people to fix this

hehe
Although I am far from being a "qualified" mechanic, it does sound that there is a problem with either the transmission or the transmission microprocessor. Too bad that you are out of warranty. At least, try to get a correct diagnosis of the problem (if there is a problem, indeed) so that you can plan ahead.

Best of luck,

Yannis
 

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quote:

Originally posted by gar598:
I have a '97 960 with 48k miles on it.

I just finished one of my 120 miles trips and the next day when I woke up and turn the car on the CHECK ENGINE light comes on the W S E lights are blinking back and forth (the lights near the gear box), then I tried to drive it and it wouldn't go over 30mph so I took it back home. Then 4 hours later it worked fine but the check engine light was still on?

grr i'm poor I can't pay people to fix this

hehe
I just recevied my oil filter wrench from IPD and I noticed a flyer they put in with the wrench (to try and sell me more stuff, of course). One of the items was the engine fault code reader. Only costs about $180 or so, and you can plug it in and read the fault codes yourself and determine if the fault is major enough to take the car to the dealer or fix it yourself. My car is still under warranty, but one of these would be the first thing I'd get when the warranty drops off.

Turns out, there's a fault code that blaps the engine check light when you don't put the fuel cap on all the way. To get the dealer or a mechanic to read that code will cost you $80. So you can see the reader will pay for itself in no time.

Just a thought. Check out IPDUSA.com
 

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quote:

Originally posted by adamisadam:
You should scrap it and upgrade to a nice 1998 V70 T5(M). Anyone know where he can get one? Oh wait! I HAVE ONE FOR SALE! ;-)

Adam,

good to see you here! You are selling your beautiful car? Are you crazy?


Yannis
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well I just took it to volvo
( $80 bucks down the drain).They said I needed a

1.) PnP Switch $304.40 (I can't afford that)

2.) Node switch $132.90 (or this)

3.) Sunroof garter $187.00 (or that)

I thought volvo are suppose to be reliable

I am a poor college student

Anyone know a good cheap place in the Raleigh/Durham area?

thks
 

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quote:

Originally posted by gar598:
I thought volvo are suppose to be reliable
They are reliable, but the 960 is a POS. Read the Brickboard RWD if you think I'm joking.

quote:

1.) PnP Switch $304.40 (I can't afford that)
That part is $91.20 from IPS. How much does the stealership want to charge you for it? How many hours of labor to install it? You should be able to knock $100+ off that quote if you go to an indy shop with the part in hand.

Good luck.
 

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quote:

Originally posted by gar598:
those prices include parts/labor


what is a indy shop? hehe

what is the brickboard rwd?

hehe
Indy shops can be found all over the state of Indiana. Otherwise, it is another name for an "independent" service shop, meaning they are not a dealer and they service all kinds of cars (which in its own sense can present many disadvantages).

"Brickboard rwd" is the Rear Wheel Drive forum at www.brickboard.com. A very nice place to find advice but I am warning you...80% of the people go there to vent and rant. So, I would take the comments ther with a HUGE (like those fed to the deer) grain of salt.

Yannis
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do you recommend taking the part to a "indy" shop instead of the dealer? or should I just deal with the price and take it to a dealer?

I'm pretty sure that I will buy the part at a third party shop and just bring it in.
 

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quote:

Originally posted by gar598:
Do you recommend taking the part to a "indy" shop instead of the dealer? or should I just deal with the price and take it to a dealer?
Check my profile and you will get your answer...and...Play it SAFE!

Yannis
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
wow, you own your own volvo dealship


so how much does it normally cost for parts/labor for the items I listed?

PnP switch $304
Mode Switch $132.90
Sunroof Garter $187

I have found the PnP switch for 91 bucks at gapa.com

Another thing happened, after I took it in the check engine light went off
so does that mean everything is fine?

[This message has been edited by gar598 (edited 02-10-2002).]
 

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Originally posted by gar598:
own your a volvo dealship


OWN? hardly...I am..."owned" by my work, that is!


Yannis

P.S. I am not at work, obviously, so I cannot give you prices but most parts are about the same at most Volvo Retailers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yea, the only reason I was worried about the sunroof is because it was leaking water
but now I think they sealed it up properly :0 (so I won't worry about that for awhile).

I have the code from the readings

"600 hooked up vst. CODES 666, 114, 113. Needs Mode and PnP Switch"
 
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