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Yes, I’ve been following the thread and read about the mid-cycle theory - tried many times to do that deliberately with no effect. Battery does look OK, no corrosion, terminals tight, voltage good. Couldn’t see a date on it but doesn’t look obviously newer than it’s surroundings so could well be the original, in which case it wouldn’t really owe me much even if it were to die tomorrow… will continue to wait and see for now
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Yes, I’ve been following the thread and read about the mid-cycle theory - tried many times to do that deliberately with no effect. Battery does look OK, no corrosion, terminals tight, voltage good. Couldn’t see a date on it but doesn’t look obviously newer than it’s surroundings so could well be the original, in which case it wouldn’t really owe me much even if it were to die tomorrow… will continue to wait and see for now
I will say, I thought on one short Start / Stop and Foot lifted up the brakes, my car was going to certainly stutter and not restart. But it did restart So the problem isn't straightforward. Other than the proposed idea of why this is happening, I've got zero ideas. @Tech says he's seen these issues be the starter.

Batteries typically last about 6 years. So if you're cruising around in a 2017 (probably manufactured in 2016?) the battery is about 5 years old. So very likely coming upon the End of It's Life Cycle.
 

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Well I didn’t have to wait long… did it again yesterday. By coincidence I do have a brand new main battery I can throw in … purchased it for my ‘11 but turned out was not a battery issue after all… so next reasonably warm dry day I’ll swap that out and do the fog light/hazard switch routine to reset the battery meter and see where I go from there
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Well I didn’t have to wait long… did it again yesterday. By coincidence I do have a brand new main battery I can throw in … purchased it for my ‘11 but turned out was not a battery issue after all… so next reasonably warm dry day I’ll swap that out and do the fog light/hazard switch routine to reset the battery meter and see where I go from there
I haven't had another issue so try main battery swap. Doesn't mean that the battery was my or is your issue. If it is the starter as @Tech thought, bad spots get worse over time and don't always show up immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 · (Edited)
So I hate to revive this thread, but I think @Tech was right. Dealer said I had a bad car battery, and that could be partly to blame, but tech and I chatted about this issue a little bit more. With me hinting winter might bring out the gremlins.

It was about 30 degrees in the garage and 10 degrees outside. I went to start my car today and you hear it struggling to kick over. Guessing the issue is a bad spot on the starter as Tech Suggested from the get go?

Here's an Audio Clip. You'll have the car struggling to start in the last 5 seconds of the clip. I made a 15 second clip though from the dash camera. Mind you, the Dash Camera cuts off at a point when the car does start. But I believe this clip is sufficient to show something else is at play other than just the battery. Note: You may wish to turn up audio so you can hear things better.

Feedback Welcome:

Audio File: CLICK HERE
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
@ Tech,

Hmmm Ok. It struggled to start for like 10 secs vs instantly starting and turning over.. Normal in cold?
 

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No, not normal, not for 10 seconds of cranking on a modern car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 · (Edited)
duplicate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 · (Edited)
No, not normal, not for 10 seconds of cranking on a modern car.
Video Posted.

@Tech @Wayne T5

Posting Video in a second. So people can see. Had to edit it.

CLICK BELOW: Is that normal? Sounds like car is struggling to start.

 

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That's still too long, at least IMHO. Something's not quite right here, whether it's spark, fuel or some other problem.

Edit: Good thing you have an appointment for the rear defroster. Dealer should look into this long start issue as well - may be battery again!
 

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I didn't say it was normal, I just said it doesn't sound like the starter is the problem here.

A "bad spot" on the starter would cause a no crank symptom. Yours is cranking just fine.

I'd guess fuel related but that's just a guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
I didn't say it was normal, I just said it doesn't sound like the starter is the problem here.

A "bad spot" on the starter would cause a no crank symptom. Yours is cranking just fine.

I'd guess fuel related but that's just a guess.
Marathon 93 Top Tier. Same place I always fill up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 · (Edited)
That's still too long, at least IMHO. Something's not quite right here, whether it's spark, fuel or some other problem.

Edit: Good thing you have an appointment for the rear defroster. Dealer should look into this long start issue as well - may be battery again!
Hopefully I can keep appointment. With 2 Volvo Dealers Closing, this place is swamped. Made appointment in hopes a loaner is available. If not, my choice is seeing if they can get me in and out when they first open or rescheduling. Rescheduling sucks as its a 85 or so mile drive each way. Prob won't be out that way again til march and getting close to 100k cpo expiring. 3500 miles which is about 2.5 or 3 months tops.

At least having a dash camera proves I'm not crazy. Great investment for these spontaeous gremlins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
I didn't say it was normal, I just said it doesn't sound like the starter is the problem here.

A "bad spot" on the starter would cause a no crank symptom. Yours is cranking just fine.

I'd guess fuel related but that's just a guess.
Question. With bad spots, it doesn't keep cranking until it finally starts? Just won't start?
 

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I meant fuel pressure, not fuel quality or octane.

A bad spot would cause it to not crank if it lands in the spot.
 

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Hopefully I can keep appointment. With 2 Volvo Dealers Closing, this place is swamped.
Weren't you in Columbus at some point? Who closed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
I meant fuel pressure, not fuel quality or octane.

A bad spot would cause it to not crank if it lands in the spot.
Sorry, misunderstood. Thought you had meant fuel as in moisture got into it (bad / cheap) fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Weren't you in Columbus at some point? Who closed?
Pmed. I live in a Volvo Blackhole now with no convenient dealer. Columbus isn't close any means but I pass through area right now about every 1 to 2 months on my way to North East Ohio. Though that frequency will probably decrease significantly very soon.
 

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I didn't say it was normal, I just said it doesn't sound like the starter is the problem here.

A "bad spot" on the starter would cause a no crank symptom. Yours is cranking just fine.

I'd guess fuel related but that's just a guess.
Residual fuel pressure low?
 
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