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2004 S60R M66 AWD and 2008 Volvo XC90 V8 AWD - Climate Pkg, Versatility Pkg, and Convenience Pkg
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all,

I apologize in advance for the long post, but I might edit the title of this into a build thread later on depending on where things go. I joined SwedeSpeed back in July of 2020 when I received my parents' 2008 Volvo XC90 V8 (hence the username) with 66k miles on it, which now has 70K issue-free miles on it. On that, I've done a plethora of things, each one being a huge learning experience for me that I'm sincerely grateful for; my dad always says "It's more than just a brake job, it's a life skill." And that's exactly what it is.

Anyways, I've always had a fascination with manual cars since a young age and after a good amount of searching, we found and bought this 2004 Volvo S60 R with 112,000 miles, the M66 AWD, WA/OR-kept (I'm in the Portland, OR area BTW, so hello to any of my fellow PNW Volvo owners!). Below is the Craigslist listing description, and I've attached to this post all the images that he provided.

Craigslist Posting Description:
Hard to find 6 speed manual Volvo S60R. 112K miles. At 103k new steering rack, lower control arm bushings, and front 4C shocks. At 101k new timing belt, water pump, pulleys, oil pump seal , and serpentine belt. At 72k new bevel gear. Have all receipts back to original window sticker. Has down pipe and TME exhaust. Interior in great shape, everything works. Great stereo with big amps and a sub. New battery.

As soon as I saw the "At 72k new bevel gear... and front 4C shocks..." I was hooked onto it and ended up buying the car for around $6,000. It has IPD engine and transmission mounts, a TME Cat-back Exhaust, some sort of downpipe, IPD Lowering Springs, a really nice custom sub setup, and I think that's all that it has in terms of upgrades or modifications. Didn't even have a K&N filter or Cold Air Intake, so I'd call it tastefully modded. I hate loud cars and this TME Exhaust is conservative but hi-flow, which I love.

Anyways, my questions are the following for you all:
  1. I'm getting new tires and brakes on it first thing, as per inspection recommendation. What other things should I look into repairing first, in order of importance/urgency?
  2. The car is currently debadged. Me being the person I am, I hate that--so my first job will be putting the rear badges back on the car. How can I make sure they go where they're supposed to and aren't crooked/misaligned, etc.?
  3. I completely polished, paint-corrected, and ceramic coated my parents' XC90 V8 in Electric Silver Metallic (which, by the way, is the best color for the XC90 IMO) and that's exactly what I plan to do to this R, very soon. However, the trim pieces just below the roof and above the door jambs seem to be suffering from peeling clear coat (I think? See images). Can this be fixed with a touch-up pen from the dealer? Or should I just buy new trim pieces? If so, what's the P/N for these trim pieces?
  4. The very last image at the very bottom of this post shows the door jamb seal having some damage. I think that the only way to repair it is to get a new rubber seal that goes around the DOOR. Not the seal that goes around the chassis/body, but the rubber seal around the DOOR itself. Anyone have a P/N for this? How to replace this? EDIT: Here's images of the seal closeup: 2 new photos by Shudhant Gautam
  5. Is there any way to display the current gear I'm in, in place of where the automatic transmission would display P/R/N/D? Is that possible?
  6. The Bevel Gear was replaced at 72K miles. The car currently has 112K. Should I do a fluid replacement on it to prolong its life? I have yet to do a Bevel Gear fluid change on my XC90 V8 so this would be my first time, but I know that at least on the XC90 V8, it's a royal PITA to do.
  7. Along the lines of the driveline, I replaced the Haldex AOC filter in my Gen 3 Haldex in my XC90 V8 in November 2020 as well as the fluid for the Haldex AOC. Should I do the same for this S60R? I remember it was quite annoying as I had to drop the exhaust and the rear part of the driveshaft just to gain access to be able to remove the pump and clean the little screen on the pump. But I may be wrong if this 2004 S60R has a Gen 2 Haldex AOC (does it have a Gen 3 like my 2008 XC90 V8?).
  8. The front 4C struts were replaced at around 103K miles. When should I expect the rear 4C struts to go? And I don't have a spring compressor at home (too scared to use it even if I had one) so the rear ones should be fairly simple to replace, no?
  9. The LCA Bushings were replaced, and so were the lower transmission mount and upper engine mount with solid blue polyurethane IPD mounts. What other bushings are common failure points on these Rs that I should address, and with what importance? (aka should I do it now, or later?)
  10. There is only one key with the car. What all do I need to get a second key (valet key works, just need to start the car in case I lose the main key with the fob), how much does it cost, etc.?
  11. I did a Pioneer DMH-WT8600NEX (yeah the big boy screens) radio upgrade and backup camera upgrade on my XC90 V8 using a kit from a European company called InCarTec. Is there anything different I need to know about D-DIN head unit upgrades for the Rs? I'll also be installing a backup camera on it once I get the D-DIN head unit, which will all be around Black Friday because I'm a high school senior :)
  12. When I was test driving it, it was on his private drive (which is uphill) stopped and with the handbrake up. I forgot exactly how it happened but I heard a sort-of-loud bang from the rear, which I assume was the common parking brake grenade issue? Is this resolved with a simple parking brake shoe replacement and handbrake cable adjustment? Or do I have to mess with the springs or the parking brake shoe mechanism itself? How difficult is that repair?
  13. The interior black plastic "textured" trim pieces just below the Climate Control Module and around the silver Spaceball shifter is quite scratched up. Should I repair that, or replace it? What's the P/N?
  14. As standard on these used Rs, my 18" Pegasus rims are curb-rashed all around. I know of the IPD replicas, but I can't justify spending $225 x 4 = $900 USD on a set of wheels for this car. I've heard of Plasti-Dip, but that's only on my high school parking lot's classic clapped-out Civics and Infinity G35/37 and Nissan 350/370Zs... Given that the color of this car is dark, what would you all recommend I do if I was to go the Plasti-Dip route? Or should I go the refinishing route? Looking for a cost-effective solution. And you all should know, that I give examples of the clapped-out Civics and VQ cars because I hate a show-off and flashy car and love tasteful mods; so that means please keep the Plasti-Dip color suggestions to a modest range! That's why I almost didn't buy this R when I saw it had been de-badged.
  15. ANYTHING else? Tips? Tricks? Suggestions? Concerns? Questions? Comments? Things y'all would recommend I do to the car (remember, keep it tasteful please, I dig the OEM/OEM+ look)? Seriously, I love positive feedback and constructive criticism with the Volvo community on here and after having done so for some time over on the P2 XC90 forum, I'm REALLY excited to come over here and get my feet wet.
Thank you all so much in advance! I'm really looking forward to getting into this subforum, and especially this S60R. Cheers!

--08XC90V8 :)

Photos:
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Wheel Automotive side marker light Automotive parking light Tire Vehicle

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Vehicle Car Speedometer Automotive design Gear shift

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Car Automotive air manifold


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Blue Font Material property Newspaper Publication

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Congratulations on your R purchase, Just a quick advice- drive it for some time and take time to prioritize your upgrades/repairs on the car- they add up in cost and if you don't do your own work gets Very expensive. These cars need constant attention, I would check PCV service, condition of the oil / is sludge present under the oil cap, also rear shocks- it is the age that kills them , you are going on 17 years. cosmetic stuff like wheels can wait, before you pay money for refinishing- check ebay for good quality used wheels- sometimes it's cheaper than refinishing. Key is about $300 at the dealer, $220 for valet, (two years ago for me) new Angle gear is definitely a bonus, check the boots of the CV axles- at this mileage they start breaking and leaking, Stereo upgrade is similar to XC90, find YouTube videos for peace of mind, Many safe miles!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Congratulations on your R purchase, Just a quick advice- drive it for some time and take time to prioritize your upgrades/repairs on the car- they add up in cost and if you don't do your own work gets Very expensive. These cars need constant attention, I would check PCV service, condition of the oil / is sludge present under the oil cap, also rear shocks- it is the age that kills them , you are going on 17 years. cosmetic stuff like wheels can wait, before you pay money for refinishing- check ebay for good quality used wheels- sometimes it's cheaper than refinishing. Key is about $300 at the dealer, $220 for valet, (two years ago for me) new Angle gear is definitely a bonus, check the boots of the CV axles- at this mileage they start breaking and leaking, Stereo upgrade is similar to XC90, find YouTube videos for peace of mind, Many safe miles!
Thank you for the kind advice. I do my own work but am limited by my experience and tools I have at home, which so far, hasn't been an issue for me. I did the glove test when buying the car and it seemed to pass with flying colors. Oil was changed < 500 miles ago but I'll look for sludge under the oil fill cap. I'll sit and wait for the rear struts to give way, then I guess!

What qualifies as a failed or needs-to-be-replaced CV axle boot?

Thank you once again!
 

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Check the engine mounts. Remove the trim pieces, sand down just a little and respray clear. They are hard to find. I just live with the peeling clear on mine. When the rear shocks go out, replace with aftermarket. 4C is not worth keeping, IMO.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check the engine mounts. Remove the trim pieces, sand down just a little and respray clear. They are hard to find. I just live with the peeling clear on mine. When the rear shocks go out, replace with aftermarket. 4C is not worth keeping, IMO.

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Are you referring to the lower engine mounts? I have a jack and ramps but no car lift or engine jack/bar thing at home. How can I check their condition?

Respray clear coat over the trim pieces--sounds good. Would a touch up pen not be better, or is the peeling (see pic in original post) not of the paint and is only of the clear coat?

Thanks for the reply.
 

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As for point14.
I've plastidipped my winterset, it's on for 8 years. Still holding good&#8230;
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also, my parking brake sticks when disengaging it (I have to move the car for it to then "BANG" back into its resting position) and I need to pull it up really quite high for it to keep the car from moving. Is it time for a parking brake cable adjustment (with the small nut at the handbrake) and also a shoe replacement? I was hoping I could wait till the rotors and pads (which are nearly ready to be replaced) are ready to go before I get new handbrake shoes, but I guess not...
 

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I can't tell how bad the trim pieces are from the pictures. Color pen might be more noticable. If the base coat is intact, sanding with 2000 grit and clear is my best recommendation.

Not sure on the engine mounts without a lift of some sort, if your engine shakes a lot on startup, that could be a symptom.

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I did a Pioneer DMH-WT8600NEX (yeah the big boy screens) radio upgrade and backup camera upgrade on my XC90 V8 using a kit from a European company called InCarTec. Is there anything different I need to know about D-DIN head unit upgrades for the Rs? I'll also be installing a backup camera on it once I get the D-DIN head unit, which will all be around Black Friday because I'm a high school senior :)
If I were you, I would stray away from aftermarket headunits and screens etc. I can not recommend the Grom Bluetooth unit enough. Except for a back-up camera (which imo isn't really necessary), it adds all of the audio features of a modern car while still retaining the oem look of the headunit. I've had mine for upwards of 2 years and in my opinion it really can't be beat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You picked up a dream car of mine!! Congrats dude. Looks awesome!
Thank you so much! Very very happy with the purchase.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If I were you, I would stray away from aftermarket headunits and screens etc. I can not recommend the Grom Bluetooth unit enough. Except for a back-up camera (which imo isn't really necessary), it adds all of the audio features of a modern car while still retaining the oem look of the headunit. I've had mine for upwards of 2 years and in my opinion it really can't be beat.
Interesting perspective--I hadn't really looked at the Grom Units as an option before. I know I want Carplay though, that's a must-have for me. Thanks for sharing though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I can't tell how bad the trim pieces are from the pictures. Color pen might be more noticable. If the base coat is intact, sanding with 2000 grit and clear is my best recommendation.

Not sure on the engine mounts without a lift of some sort, if your engine shakes a lot on startup, that could be a symptom.

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Looks like base coat is intact, the clear is peeling. Will just any old clear coat work?

Thanks
 

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I would get something high quality clear coat vs big box cheap stuff. I've had good luck with colorrite.

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
This happened today, see video here: New video by Shudhant Gautam

When pushed down all the way and let go of, the clutch pedal takes a considerable amount of time to come back up. I have also started to notice that the pedal, after I release pressure off of it to start moving forward, lags a bit and causes the clutch engagement to be a lot more sudden and "jerky" than it normally is/should be.

I took a look at the brake fluid reservoir today, and the fluid level is fine. But in the little mesh filter under the cap, the fluid looks to be very dark in color. I've ordered DOT 4 Liqui Moly brake fluid and have a Motive Power Bleeder. I'll be bleeding the brakes soon, so I had a question:

Does anyone know what size pipe I'll need to attach to the bleeder valve on the calipers?

I'll post my results after the brake fluid flush and replacement. There don't seem to be any codes via VIDA, so could this be a master or slave cylinder issue? Any way to bleed the slave cylinder?

Will bleeding the brakes even do anything to the clutch? In other words, is there a separate clutch fluid reservoir?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Anyone have anything to offer on this? I did some digging and some say it was their clutch pedal return helper spring and the seat it sits on. Any P/Ns for that?

Thanks!
 

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I doubt it's the clutch helper spring - that is supposed to assist in holding the pedal down once you go past the "breakover" point. Mine broke in pieces (fatigue fractured) a couple of years ago, and I never replaced it. No real difference in clutch feel or operation as far as I can tell.

There is a bleeder valve for the clutch cylinder. You can bleed the brakes but it won't do anything for the fluid in the clutch system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That makes more sense, thanks.

Is there a how-to thread on this forum on how to bleed the clutch slave cylinder? And so by your last sentence, I infer that there's a separate clutch fluid reservoir (separate from the brake)? Can I check the fluid level in it somehow?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

This is the second time this has happened. The first time, after about 1 hour of leaving the car off, locked, parked in the garage made it go away. This time, it's been 24 hours and multiple drives and the issue persists.

If you turn up the volume in the video to the max (trust me, it's not ear rape) you can hear a bunch of bass. And that's the issue--only the subwoofer is working, nothing else. No matter the source, volume, fader/balance/treble/bass levels, etc. it's as if someone just pulled out all the mid and treble speakers, and left just the subwoofer in.

Any ideas on what this could be? My car has the HU-613, an aftermarket subwoofer and amplifier, and I'm almost 100% sure, aftermarket speakers driven by an amp next to the sub amp in the trunk.

And then my second question... I took out my radio to take a peak behind and ensure the Crux wiring harness I bought is the right one. Good news first? the wiring harness is the right one. Not so good news? There's an "iSimple" iPod integration interface hooked up and tapped into the CAN connectors going into the radio. See images: 5 new photos by Shudhant Gautam

My question is: will this interfere in any way with my DDIN radio install and SWC retention? I don't feel like taking out all those wire taps for the iSimple thingy but before I dive into the radio install, is anyone familiar with this iSimple interface?
 

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That makes more sense, thanks.

Is there a how-to thread on this forum on how to bleed the clutch slave cylinder? And so by your last sentence, I infer that there's a separate clutch fluid reservoir (separate from the brake)? Can I check the fluid level in it somehow?
Manual pump-the-pedal how to:

Pressure bleeder how to:
 
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