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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, my adaptive bi xenon and high beams are out on my 07/xc getting a low beam bulb failure light on the dash. I changed the bulbs on the xenons 5 months ago so those should be good. Parking lights DRLs and fogs work fine. I dont see any blown fuses in the hood or both driver compartment fuse boxes. Have not checked the fuse box in the rear. I have seen bits and pieces of solutions on various forums but do not feel like paying a shop to chase this problem.

Any ideas on where to head next. I dont see a fuse directly tied the xenon or headlight assemblies.

Thanks
 

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Easiest thing, pull the bulbs out and put back in a few times. Your contacts might just be dirty. My right one does this once in a while. It could also be a short somewhere or the grounding wire might have come undone if it is separate from the battery ground. Just simple ideas.
 

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There is no negative terminal in the engine bay. It is one of the 3 grounding screws on the left side of the frame, kinda near the positive terminal. Do not disconnect it. If you do, the circut tester will not give feedback because the circut is not complete. Likewise, if it is plugged in and the tester does not give feedback, there is your problem. Fuse #3 in the engine bay is headlight washers. 35 amps. Fuses 16 and 17 are HIDs. 20 amps each.
 

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Anything work for the headlights yet?
 

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http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/2007/2007_XC90/07xc90_09.htm#pg201

This is the Fuses pages in the '07 Owner's Manual. I don't see an ECU fuse, but it could be tied in with another major fuse. The only possibility I see is "10. On-board diagnostics, headlight switch, steering wheel angle sensor, steering wheel module" Fuses are located inside the access panel on the edge of the dashboard, on the driver's side. There are also a number of spare fuses, but you wouldn't be able to steer so...

Maybe check this one? "12. Ceiling lighting, upper electronic control module"

Actually, as I go along, this is your best bet! "16. Power steering, Active Bi-Xenon headlights (option)" Again, you would lose something else, but maybe just pull it out and put it in again. Fuse box in the passenger compartment, behind the plastic cover, driver's side.

I pulled all this from the manual, so give it a look and see if you find another possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So broke down and went to dealer. It was the friggin bulbs. I replaced the oem bulbs a few months ago but both went at same time? Strange. I had to pay 220 for oem bulb. Fortunately...they only had one bulb in stock so I wasnt pressured to replace both.
Interestingly enough...I tested my old oem bulb when I was doing the initial troubleshooting but it didn't turn on. Now that they replaced the one side with a new oem bulb the old oem one now works...weird.

Will the new bulb get bluer like the old one after initial burn in or will it stay white with tinge of yellow?
 

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Wow, $220/bulb! I have the Sylvania ones (Amazon) and they've been going strong almost 2 years. I think they were each around $40.

Do you keep your headlight switch in the 9 o'clock position or the 12 o'clock position during the day?
 

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Wow, $220/bulb! I have the Sylvania ones (Amazon) and they've been going strong almost 2 years. I think they were each around $40.

Do you keep your headlight switch in the 9 o'clock position or the 12 o'clock position during the day?
Will this put me back into DRLs running and the projectors coming on when dark enough?
Yes, local VA dealer quoted $232 for one Active HID bulb.
 

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Will the new bulb get bluer like the old one after initial burn in or will it stay white with tinge of yellow?
You should replace both at the same time. They will never be the same color if they aren't replaced at the same time because the metal parts that heat the salts warp over time, giving the bluer hue. The initial burn in period warps them quickly till they become stable, then they warp slower, but eventually turn pink when the salts are used up or the metal warps enough.
 
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