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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hope some experts can shed some light on this.

I had pressure build up in the coolant system, decided to strip the engine, found multiple cracks in the head between de exhaust valves and several spark plug holes (see pictures).

Block is good, as are camshafts (2xVVT) and valve cover, so just looking for a new head. Car is a 2004 V70R, but a couple of years ago I swapped the engine for a 2007 T5 (B5244T5). Now I am wondering which heads will fit as B5244T5 heads are rare.

First of all I am confused as the current head has part number 8642545006 (see picture). When searching for this head I only find adverts for the B5254T4 engine (i.e. this head is used for the R motor). But that doesn't make sense as the B5244T5 has a bore of 81 mm and the B5254T4 has a bore of 83 mm. I measured my block with three different tape measures and the bore is 81 mm (the block has B5244T 4094390 stamped into it, so it is actualy a B5244T5 block). I measured my cracked head and I measured 82 mm (I understand that doesn't make sense, but that's it). No idea why all the adverts are for the 2.5L B5254T4 engine and not for the 2.4L B5244T5 engine though.

My primary question is basically which heads can I use for this B5244T5 block, while reusing my dual VVT cams and cam cover?

E.g. the compression of the B5244T3 is the same, the bore is 83 mm (is that an issue, using a slightly bigger bore head?). I understand the B5244T3 only has exhaust cams, so the oil journals on the intake are smaller (https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=79321), but I am not sure whether that is a big issue. The cams seem to fit, the journals in the valve cover are bigger than that of the head and perhaps I need to drill two holes (to feed the oil canals in the VVT cams, see picture of the current cam oil canals and feed), but happy to hear any thoughts on that as well of course.

Many thanks,
Dirk





 

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B5254T4/B52544T5 heads are identical.

Can use the B5254T2 head, will not be able to use R/T5 sparkplugs and will have some reduction in flow.
 

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Why would you want to replace a good flowing head with a sub-optimal one? Get the R head. Last year when I looked there were plenty on eBay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the replies. From your replies I understand the B5254T2 uses a different head with different spark plugs (19mm) and some reduction in flow compared to the head from the B5254T4 / B5244T5. My current T5 engine (B5244T5) has the longer spark plugs (26,5 mm) and extra cooling similar to the B5254T4 engine (the R)(https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?205356-S60r-head-compatibility).

However, since my T5 engine (B5244T5) has multiple thermal cracks around the exhaust valves and spark plugs, the extra cooling didn't realy help. I think the biggest thermal challenge for the engine is driving at +220km/h in Germany and not so much the quick and short overtaking actions, so I may need to take it slower in Germany :).

As there are no heads for the B5244T5 or B5254T4 on sale in the Netherlands and offers abroad are expensive (>EUR 600) and sellers are not always that reliable, I think I will go for the B5254T2 (the 2,5 LPT) (EUR 250). Based on the pictures I do not see any difference in any of the heads whatsoever (height and dimensions seem to be the same after meticulously looking at the foto's), but I trust the different experts that there are differences. As the B5254T2 head has less cooling I am considering putting in a thermostat with a lower operning temperature. Any suggestions on additional cooling are welcome of course.

For completeness sake two other remarks:
- @gottarollwithit, when the engine was swapped some years ago, The enitre R engine was scrapped (including the head), so I don't have an R head to put ons this block.
- Perhaps also interesting, I am shimming the block and even though I have an 2.4L block (i.e. less likely to crack at the cylinder linings), my feeler gages sense a minor narrowing in the middle between the cylinder heads (perhaps 0,1 or 0,2 mm), so shimming may helpt prevent further widening (using Dougy shim design, see: https://www.diyauto.com/manufacturers/volvo/generations/s60/builds/dougy-s-s60r-by-dougy).

Best regards,
WJ
 

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Thanks for the replies. From your replies I understand the B5254T2 uses a different head with different spark plugs and some reduction in flow compard to the head from the B5254T4 / B5244T5.
That is correct. The B5254T2 is a different head with different (shorter) spark plugs and I believe it has less aggressive camshafts than the B5254T4 or B5244T5. Your coils will work however you need the coil boots from the other coil type. One is shorter one is longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That is correct. The B5254T2 is a different head with different (shorter) spark plugs and I believe it has less aggressive camshafts than the B5254T4 or B5244T5. Your coils will work however you need the coil boots from the other coil type. One is shorter one is longer.
I want to use my B5244T5 camshafts, even if they are more aggressive that should work / fit the B5254T2 head correct (from the pictures I don't see any difference in size, form or shape of the cams though)? The coils I will do some further research as to what I need :). Thanks for the help!

BR
WJ
 

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If the camshafts are different you may need to re-lash the valves.

I cannot remember if the B5254T2 or B5254T4/B5244T5 coil boots are longer...
 

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That's a good point. If he's gotta adjust his valves, that's gonna be a pain. There's no adjustment pucks or anything, just switching the entire bucket out to a different thickness. Sounds time consuming and expensive.

That said, why not try to get one of the part out guys in the FS section to ship you a head?? Not sure what shipping is... But, whatever you buy you're probably going to want to bring it to a machine shop and get it cleaned up, checked, and maybe resurfaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
To give feedback on the progress, I just picked up a B5254T2 head today and first thing was checking the intake cams (exhaust cams are the same on all P2 models (pn 8642712). I have read many posts on different fora and there seems to be a lot of confusion on the R intake cams.

As stamped on the top of the cam itself the intake cam PN for the 2007 B5244T5 (T5) is 00080687410 D614 and for the 2006 B5254t2 (2,5LPT) 00086703541 J512, so they indeed seem different. However, both intake cams have the number 100 1835 stamped. I also measured the height of the lobes (with an ordinary tape measure, but I tried to be as accurate as possible) and both have exactly the same width (3,5cm) and exactly the same lobe height (1.1 cm measured from the shaft on the same place, i.e between the two lobes closest to the VVT). Normally race cams have higher lift (several milimeters at least) and duration, but lift is the same and I have looked at the shape of the lobes (for duration) and the angle between the lobes and they seem exactly the same.

As the lift is the same I think I don't need to re-lash the valves. For me the benefit in using the cams and cover of the 5244T5 engine is that these are locked and thus timed, whereas the cams of the B5254T2 I picked up today are not timed. I will keep you posted!

 

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There is no way cooling system will get pressure from those cracks in the head, pcv will. Look at cylinder walls more closely. If no cracks, perhaps head is warped which can happen if engine was overheated. I've never seen that much build up on exhaust valves even with over 200k miles. I'd strongly recommend lapping valves on your "new" head if that's what you end up using unless it's from a low mileage car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
@Shurgen, why can't the cooling system get pressure from those cracks? The valve walls have cooling as well correct? The PCV was never an issue, the engine never overheated and I checked the PCV regularly using the simple glove test and when I removed the container it was a bit filthy but not blocked. The block looks fine with no cracks between the cylinder linings. I do agree that there is a lot of deposit on the exhaust valves, for which I have no explanation other than perhaps cooling fluid from the cracks?

I brought the B5254T2 head to the machine shop today to get the valves lapped, the head honed and perhaps some seals replaced. They strongly advised not to mate the cams and valve cover of the B5244T5 engine with the B5254T2 head because the cam bearings are cylinder honed (i.e. the cover and the head are drilled for the cams as one piece and in their experience if there is a couple of hundred milimeter difference in the cam bearings by using a different valve cover, the head will not last).

So I decided to just use the entire B5254T2 head, including cams and valve cover. The only downside is I have to do the timing now.

I will keep you informed of the progress.
 

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It's a little too much to read for me...Not sure if you mention it but is your R stock? If not what turbo, injectors and how much boost you runing and who tuned it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@ Dougy, standard turbo, standard injectors, 3"downpipe, CAI and MTE tune. Not sure how high boost is.

Block is from the B5244T5 with the thicker cylinder walls (2,4L). Will put the head, cams and valve cover from B5254T2 engine on the block next week.
 

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@ Dougy, standard turbo, standard injectors, 3"downpipe, CAI and MTE tune. Not sure how high boost is.

Block is from the B5244T5 with the thicker cylinder walls (2,4L). Will put the head, cams and valve cover from B5254T2 engine on the block next week.
high temp/heat, high boost will cause those cracks especially pressing it with a stock k24...it will happen again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok tnx. So in your view the boost is probably too high and the K24 turbo probably responsible for boost spikes? Maybe just (having the dealer) reset the ECU to get rid of the MTE tune would help.
 

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ok tnx. So in your view the boost is probably too high and the K24 turbo probably responsible for boost spikes? Maybe just (having the dealer) reset the ECU to get rid of the MTE tune would help.
lets just say in my opinion it's getting lill toooo hot in there... k24 does not help with a combo box tune...but a proper custom tune that is logged and double checked and fine tuned by a tuner will surely prevent that...you will need a custom tune.
 
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