I have been wondering for a while, if a B234 head will work with a B230 block. What kind of stuff would I have to look out for if I was planning on performing such a swap to build an engine. Computer stuff, breathing hardware...etc. Does anyone know of or has anyone tried such a thing, or is it just simpler to find a complete B234?
head swap question
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The 16V head will fit the B23/230 block. The timing belt tensioner will need to be custom, or you can buy one from Richard Prince in Austrailia. The timing belt will also need to be changed from the standard B234 belt. The intake and exhaust manifold from a B230 will NOT fit on the 16V head, so you need the B234 intake. For exhaust, you need the B234 manifold or for a turbo a custom exhaust manifold, or the B204FT exhaust manifold, which won't fit in a 240 without some modification (bending sheet metal, most likely).
Would this hypothetical project be normally aspirated or forced induction?
BTW, do you drive a gold 244?
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Doesn't one need to also use different pistons with the 16V head, due to the fact that the valve travel is greater?
-he who stacks pork
-he who stacks pork
Thanks for all the info. This was a wonderment on my part for the DISTANT possibility of building such a motor for myself. A turbo is not such a bad idea. I wonder if a twin sequential turbo arrangement might work.
I in fact do drive a gold 244. She's a 92 GL with the M47. I recently replaced her Scorpius wheels with a set of Virgos I bought ages ago from some guy in Texas who sold a brand new set to me for next to nothing. She looks good with them on, besides, the Scorpius' are impossible to clean well even with a tooth brush and elbow grease.
I have a few projects for her that I have yet to complete. I have a tach and some other guages to be installed. Stiffer springs would be great for the bendy pavement. I want to put in a hotter cam but that's one of those things that can wait until I get some other issues sorted first. She has a minor coolant leak from somewhere near the water pump and the rear cam seal needs replacement as there is occasionally some oil there. She's a good car and I enjoy driving, so it's a good thing.
I in fact do drive a gold 244. She's a 92 GL with the M47. I recently replaced her Scorpius wheels with a set of Virgos I bought ages ago from some guy in Texas who sold a brand new set to me for next to nothing. She looks good with them on, besides, the Scorpius' are impossible to clean well even with a tooth brush and elbow grease.
I have a few projects for her that I have yet to complete. I have a tach and some other guages to be installed. Stiffer springs would be great for the bendy pavement. I want to put in a hotter cam but that's one of those things that can wait until I get some other issues sorted first. She has a minor coolant leak from somewhere near the water pump and the rear cam seal needs replacement as there is occasionally some oil there. She's a good car and I enjoy driving, so it's a good thing.
Probably not necessary. A nice ball bearing t03/t04 hybrid should give good response and plenty of boost to support a lot of power.
I thought so. I saw your car at Summit Point during the Jefferson 500, parked near the paddock area. I didn't remember it having turbo wheels at the Annapolis show, so I wasn't certain that it was the same car.
I wish I had my car there that day because they let people do laps around the track for 45min. during the lunch break.
I've got a bunch of little projects in the works, but most important was finally replacing the smashed right front fender on my white 244. At the same time I also added smoked Audi side markers and I painted the headlight trim black.
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So you got the QP work done Michael? Sounds pretty cool. I've been debating about painting that front trim black....not sure. I was thinking a nice silver (non chrome) might look good too (sort of a faux brushed aluminum).
Front fender only. Still carrying the big dent on the left rear.
I used Dupli-Color Flexible Bumper paint. It looks like matte black which matches well to the bumpers and grille. It's really easy to remove the trim. 3-4 10mm nuts per headlight, disconnect the plug at the headlight, and the whole thing (turn signal is attached to the headlight) can be pulled forward. Then remove a couple of screws on each of the 4 trim pieces and you're ready to sand & paint.
For what you'd spend in adapting the 16V head to work with your B230 bottom end, you could just as easily do some work with the 8V head (or get a hi-po 8V head) without the added frustration. A well-done 8V head/cam/headers can give comparable power levels as the 16V (~150 HP), and then you've still got all kinds of stuff you can do (more radical cam, bigger valves, stroker kit, turbocharging, etc... Note that for HP levels over 160 you MUST modify the fuel system) The 16V head is kind of a dead-end - since it saw such limited production, the aftermarket did not embrace it. For instance, I only know of one or two sets of hi-po cams for the 16V head. The 8V head has probably 30+ cam grinds, wide valve size selection, headers, and several aftermarket tuners who have solid experience developing these motors.
There was a 16V head developed for the B21 (the Volvo R-Sport 16V head). This was a pure-race unit that was purported to put out well over 200HP when bolted on. I'd like to get my hands on one of those...
There was a 16V head developed for the B21 (the Volvo R-Sport 16V head). This was a pure-race unit that was purported to put out well over 200HP when bolted on. I'd like to get my hands on one of those...
Thanks!
I know about the Stage-3 R-sport head for the B-21. they also had one for the B20 I think. It used to be so easy to get one if you had the cash. In order to make them legal and take advantage of the loopholes in the system, the part had to be "stock" or "factory" That meant available over the parts counter at your local dealer. You just had to know what to ask for by name AND swear on your mother's grave that it wasn't going into a street car. R-sport was some good stuff!
I know a guy with a, r-sport B20 under the stairs to his parts shelf. It just sits there waiting to eat a Honda, but it need work.
I know about the Stage-3 R-sport head for the B-21. they also had one for the B20 I think. It used to be so easy to get one if you had the cash. In order to make them legal and take advantage of the loopholes in the system, the part had to be "stock" or "factory" That meant available over the parts counter at your local dealer. You just had to know what to ask for by name AND swear on your mother's grave that it wasn't going into a street car. R-sport was some good stuff!
I know a guy with a, r-sport B20 under the stairs to his parts shelf. It just sits there waiting to eat a Honda, but it need work.
April '02:
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(Pic by [email protected])
Since this picture (May '02) I painted the chrome above the headlights and tinted the side markers black:
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(I'm standing behind the car holding the cup of soda in my right hand. Pic by [email protected])
Hallsjo Styling headlight eyebrows. One of them flew off while I was going 90mph, so I removed the other one:
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(close up picture of headlight eyebrow)
The earliest picture of my 240, Oct. '99, about 1 month after I got it.
Since this picture (May '02) I painted the chrome above the headlights and tinted the side markers black:
Hallsjo Styling headlight eyebrows. One of them flew off while I was going 90mph, so I removed the other one:
The earliest picture of my 240, Oct. '99, about 1 month after I got it.
Yeah, I screwed up. I had some really sticky double-sided tape that was perfect for the job, but I only used it between the fiberglass eyebrows and the chrome trim above the headlights. I should have stuck another piece right on the front edge to stick it directly to the headlight, but I didn't so the wind ripped one of them off a few miles down Rt.50 headed home (~85-90mph). I circled back around a few times, but I couldn't find exactly where it fell off...or where it went. I had to clay-bar the black scuffs off my hood, but there wasn't any damage. At first I thought I hit a bird!
The fit wasn't all that great (didn't completely cover the chrome above the turn signal on one side) and they really weren't symmetrical, so I'm not too bothered by loosing one. They're clearly hand made, and it took a lot of sanding just to make them look decent. At least I have a couple of pictures with them on the car.
I bought them from Randy Heathcote @ brickstylz.com, and based on that one transaction I'd recommend him.
Hi!
I´d say that the 16v head is a bit unnessesary, if it´s power you´re looking for, the 8v head is good for above 200hp without the use of turbocharging, and a well modified 8v head won´t give up until after 400hp, when using a turbo.
A balanced and renovated B23E with standard 405 head and H cam is capeble of producing 170 hp, this is the kind of engine they use in the swedish "voc" volvo original cup.
The K-jet found in B23E/B230E has a capacity of 170hp, without doing anything. The B21ET K-jet can manage 220hp, even 250 with easy modification. If you´re the owner of an B230F the LH is capable of 200hp.
Here in sweden, the only ones driving around with 16v heads have over 350hp in their engines.
/Eric
I´d say that the 16v head is a bit unnessesary, if it´s power you´re looking for, the 8v head is good for above 200hp without the use of turbocharging, and a well modified 8v head won´t give up until after 400hp, when using a turbo.
A balanced and renovated B23E with standard 405 head and H cam is capeble of producing 170 hp, this is the kind of engine they use in the swedish "voc" volvo original cup.
The K-jet found in B23E/B230E has a capacity of 170hp, without doing anything. The B21ET K-jet can manage 220hp, even 250 with easy modification. If you´re the owner of an B230F the LH is capable of 200hp.
Here in sweden, the only ones driving around with 16v heads have over 350hp in their engines.
/Eric
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michael:
you should try to clear up those lenses. i saw this guy on espn2 last night around 2am demostrate a lense cleaning technique. he got Mag/Aluminum polish and some plastic polish. first he rubbed the Mag/Alum polish over the lense and it became clear as glass, then he rubbed the the plastic polish over it as a protectant. it was kind of neat. hah, i have friends with yellow headlights and i wanted to try it on their cars. alas, i have the dual rounds on my '78 so i couldn't try it.
you should try to clear up those lenses. i saw this guy on espn2 last night around 2am demostrate a lense cleaning technique. he got Mag/Aluminum polish and some plastic polish. first he rubbed the Mag/Alum polish over the lense and it became clear as glass, then he rubbed the the plastic polish over it as a protectant. it was kind of neat. hah, i have friends with yellow headlights and i wanted to try it on their cars. alas, i have the dual rounds on my '78 so i couldn't try it.
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