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The motor started “ started using “ coolant. This was at the same time I had struck a deer. Minor damage - driverside headlight, fender and windshield washer tank and the steering wheel air bag. While waiting to bring it in to get repaired I had to top it off twice (no heat coming out of the heater) When it went in the shop I asked the body shop guy to check to see if there was any coolant leaks he could see with everything apart and couldn’t see anything. This is when I suspected a blown head gasket. It was in the shop a couple months, I had another vehicle to drive and the body guy was a friend so I didn’t push him because he was giving me a good price. When it was done I drove it about 5 miles and it stalls at a stop sign. The oil lamp idiot light is lit and I smell oil. Open the hood and no oil on the dip stick. Put in three quarts to get me to full but I had 5000 miles and was ready for a change, usually at that point it’s a quart low. I hadn’t been changing the O ring on the filter housing cap because it always looked good and a friend said the wetness he noticed in that area indicated I was losing oil probably from the O ring. With the oil full again, I started it and without having any ticking or knocking I drove it home with the check engine verbiage light on. Halfway during that 6 mile drive home the yellow check engine verbiage changed to red “urgent” verbiage. With 2 1/2 to 3 miles to go I babied it home. Letting off the gas as I pulled in the driveway it stalled and didn’t start after that. It kind of sounded like no compression. I don’t own a check engine light reader so I’m not sure what it wold have read. At that time I dove into the he’d gasket job. When I removed the head gasket, much of the gasket material that was impregnated into the serrated metal part of the gasket was disturbed/missing. Only about a dime sized piece of material was on the block that needed to be scraped off, the rest of the block as fairly clean. The head was resurfaced and just prior to finishing it l took a picture of the of it showing the probable area where the head gasket failed and allowed the coolant to be “used”.

I’ll be honest. I don’t want to put a lot of money into this motor if I can’t get beyond this. A local junk yard has one with 118,000 miles on it, 4000 more miles than mine for $850. I have just over $300 into this one now and if it doesn’t work out I’ll reuse the timing/water pump stuff and put it in the junkyard motor.
I do hope I haven’t ruined this thread. If it gets fruitless, moderators, if you think there isn’t any redeeming value go ahead and remove the posts from my first one on. Just trying to be a backyard mechanic, I have had many successes based on info gained from forums, those successes do make you feel pretty good.


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I do hope I haven’t ruined this thread. If it gets fruitless, moderators, if you think there isn’t any redeeming value go ahead and remove the posts from my first one on. Just trying to be a backyard mechanic, I have had many successes based on info gained from forums, those successes do make you feel pretty good.
I hope you didn't take my comment the wrong way. I genuinely meant that you should start your own thread and people can probably help you more because I think your issue is bigger than simply getting the belt on the right way.

If the marks are lined up, and you have the proper amount of "teeth" between each cam mark, and your tensioner is set, there isn't much more to it. Even if you're off a tooth or so, it'll still start.

Since you said you did major engine work, and took the whole head off, I tend to think your issue of not turning over is related to something compression-wise or the likes and will require more investigating - hence your own thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No offense taken by your comment. There was so much good stuff in this thread and I wanted to make I had my timing doubts helped out which in turn, hopefully makes the thread an even better option for viewing. Not sure if all my possible eventual issues can be fixed using this forum but I’ll take it one step at a time. Thanks for commenting.


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You should try to establish if the head gasket job was done properly and move forward from there. You mentioned you resurfaced the head, did you check if the block was within spec for warpage?

The mark on the head is interesting because obviously the passage is leaking, but it isn't bridging anything; unless the gasket was toast.
 

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I am having a similar problem on my car, and I can say with reasonable certainty that you can have HG symptoms with no sign of anything on the head/block visibly. As in just because you can't see evidence of it, doesn't mean it is not leaking significantly. That is just from years of working on cars, where a new HG fixed it, but there were no visible signs of a head gasket leaking.

Would it be possible to do a leakdown test? The tester is cheap from harbor freight, and could tell you alot, help you pin down where your compression is leaking.
 

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We just lost a dearly beloved 2005 S40 T5 to a head gasket failure while on road trip. Friend of family had borrowed S40 for trip from Tennessee to Tampa. Car had about 140K and by all indications was running perfectly. I topped it off with one quart of oil and about a pint of coolant before he left. No particular evidence in garage of leaks of any kind. He said he was driving about 65 mph when car lost power and coasted to side of parkway near Tampa. No dash lights, no check engine light, just lots of smoke, steam, and oil on passenger side front. Car was towed to nearby shop owned by a friend of the driver. They checked it out. Coolant showed on spark plugs and it was very low compression. Wife and I went down the next week and cleaned out car and verified condition. I agreed with shop guy that it was probably head gasket because of the internal coolant leak. We signed over title and took some pictures. Then went to the beach for week and toasted a great little car gone too soon. Coincidentally we had ordered an XC40 back in February and it is due in about month.
 
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