SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not on here much, but I have a big project ahead of me. I decided to post updates as I go and hopefully get some helpful advice along the way.

Day 1: Removed radiator fan, air intake, throttle body, fuel rail and injectors, power steering pump, exhaust heat shield, and timing belt covers. Unplugged a bunch of wiring harnesses and took apart the thermostat, removed all the intake manifold except one (blocked by thermostat housing). I obviously drained all the coolant and oil in the process.

Questions: What size torx bit is the bolt on the thermostat housing where it is connected to the block? T30 was stripping it and T40 was too big, but there were no sizes in between at any local stores.

Is it necessary to lock the camshafts in place before I remove the cylinder head or can I just make sure I put them back in the same postion as before?

Before:


Thermostat housing and annoying torx


After:


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,439 Posts
I couldn't tell you about the torx bit.

as far as the camshafts go, I have locked mine just to be safe before. Not on my Volvo but other cars I've worked on. Although I can't say for sure as I don't know how these Volvo heads are bolted onto the block. So I dunno if the cams get in the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,486 Posts
The 35 bit you need is your smallest worry.

Do not proceed until you read VIDA instructions. You will need a couple of special tools to assemble the head, it's not the easiest job to do.

The cams don't have caps in the traditional sense; they are sandwiched between the head and the "valve cover". The springs are compressed while installing the cover, and you need to buy or fab a tool for that. Also, you need a cam locker in the back end of the engine. You can usually buy one on eBay, it's about $150, but the original Volvo tool is much more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,486 Posts
Yep, that pictorial seems to cover it okay. It even shows how to fab a cam lock tool. It's vital because the timing will be off otherwise at assembly.

You can get a good set of torx bits from Sears.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,640 Posts
Yes, same basic procedure but there are small differences between the 850 and S60 engines, notable the VVT hubs on the S60 cams, and yes those are the tools they talk about.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok I'm about to go crazy. There isn't a T35 Torx bit... Nobody has one. I'm at a stand still on this right now because I can't get the stupid exhaust manifold off. The thermostat housing is in the way. Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok I just read where I can basically shove the manifold up and it will come off that last bolt because it is slotted. Do I really need to take the thermostat housing off for this job? The only ideas I have for getting it off are using a peice of rubber to get more grip on the stipped bolt and possibly cutting out part of the gasket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,439 Posts
I'd get the Sears kit if you have a local store because of their lifetime replacement deal stuff. I have wore out my fair share of torx bits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,306 Posts
Tried using a hex key? sometimes they fit in torx heads just right...

i found it odd that even snap on didnt list a T35 on their web site.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I tried fitting a hex, but once again it was an odd size. I think I'm gonna try getting the intake manifold off with the thermostat housing still on. I'm going to try a 1/4 u-joint with an extension first and if that doesn't work I'll try a crowfoot. If I have to take the housing off I can probably get the bottom bolt out with a T35 but I think I would have to extract or drill the top out at this point. Whoever put that housing on last definitely tightened it way too much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Well I got the intake manifold off finally. The thermostat housing is still on though. I'm trying to get the starter off now, but I can't see all the bolts for it. I can see the 2 obvious ones where it connects to the transmission, but I'm not sure about the rest. (Nevermind I got it now... it was just stuck on there pretty tight)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
773 Posts
You don't have to have the cam locking tool to remove the head, but it is essential to putting the head back together. With the VVT cams, it is virtually impossible to get the cams set without the tool.

When removing the head, you don't need the cam tool, just use the old timing belt to lock the cams together, and then while someone holds the belt so the cams don't move, another person uses the Torx 55 socket to get the end cap off the cam, and then the same socket to remove the mounting bolt for the cam gear. You really need a tool to remove the top cover, the valve springs will push the cams against the cover as you remove it, and you want to do that so that there is even pressure on the cover when you remove it. Once that is off, you then have to get your wrench into the head to loosen the head bolts. 14 mm socket, and you will be better off using 1/2" socket wrench, and a looong extension, so that you can loosen the bolts. They will be very hard to loosen. I've taken several engines apart, and on one, I had to use a special tool, because the head of the bolt rounded. Seems the cheap socket made a mess of that bot. However, these are torque to yield bolts, so you throw them away ofter you take then out, and use brand new bolts when you replace the head.

Start unscrewing them with one in the center, then go to the one in the center on the other side of the head, loosen it, and then loosen other bolts in a circular pattern. If they are numbered 1-12, starting at the #1 cylinder (at passenger side of engine), start with bolts 5 and 6, then go to 7 & 8, next to 3 & 4, then to 8 & 9, then 1 & 2, and finally 11 & 12. Even number on radiator side of engine, odd numbers on firewall side of engine. So, #1 is passenger side, first bolt at front of engine, #2 is first bolt at radiator side. Good luck. Sounds hard, but is easy if you pay attention and do it carefully.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Alright well everything is apart and I took the head to a machine shop. It was very warped, so I had them straighten it, clean it, resurface, pressure test, and do a valve job. Everything else was fine and they said the valves were good and the head isn't cracked. Is it likely that the block is warped or cracked or should I not worry about that too much? Also when I put the head gasket on should I use the volvo sealer along with copper spray-a-gasket or just stick to the sealer only? I get the head back tomorrow, so I'll take some pictures of everything then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,017 Posts
for the head just the headgasket for the valve cover volvo sealer. this is the look tool
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
501 Posts
Is it likely that the block is warped or cracked or should I not worry about that too much? Also when I put the head gasket on should I use the volvo sealer along with copper spray-a-gasket or just stick to the sealer only? I get the head back tomorrow, so I'll take some pictures of everything then.
Checking the block is a good idea, you can use a straight edge and then slide feeler gauge under it, I forget what size gauge you need but it usually in a haynes manual.

For the spray a gasket stuff, I am not sure but the safest route is usually to just follow what dealer procedure calls for and nothing else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Alright so I need a new oil trap... The hoses all appear to be good, so is it possible to just buy the trap? The only place I've seen that stuff is IPD.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top