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HD TCV

2775 Views 21 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Ipd-Lucky
Just installed my new tcv yesterday and performed the "learning" procedure. for some reason whenever i go for full boost she cuts out on me and goes int a "limp" mode. No boost whats so ever... the only way to fix it is by unplugging the battery. I have the wastegate tweak done, do you think this may have something to do with it? the car pulls hard at quarter boost and half boost but once i go to full it cuts out....
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Re: HD TCV (PSAC)

Overboosting? I haven't messed with my thimble with IPD S1 because I'm already spiking past 20 psi.
Re: HD TCV (PSAC)

Make sure you have the hoses attached properly. As stated in IPD's instructions, their HD TCV can potentially uncover other issues that the stock TCV will not.

Here is some more info for you:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=111016
http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=114555

Look into those threads and report back!
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Re: HD TCV (PSAC)

PSAC, did you adjust the black valve according to the pic in the original TCV thread? I did that, and it turned out that the red line has no relation to the physical scribe on the plug, in the picture. So align the plug based on the scribe, not the red line (why is that red line even there?)

Do the blow-test. Your situation sounds exactly like a misaligned plug on the TCV. I know, I went through it 3 weeks ago. Good luck http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

My "discovery" from the issues I was having:

Quote, originally posted by JoeLvo »
Thanks Lucky, can you just confirm for me that the red line in the below photo does not indicate the port position, and that I am correct in looking at the physical scribe on the plug, and aligning it that way?



If so, what does that red line indicate?

I had a "eureka moment" at 2am last night, and it seems fine so far, but I would feel much better with your confirmation (I overboosted too many times yesterday).
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so my tcv should look like the one in the picture? the ports in the pic are the way they should be..
Re: (PSAC)

Quote, originally posted by PSAC »
so my tcv should look like the one in the picture? the ports in the pic are the way they should be..

No. he's saying pay absolutely no attention to that red line .you gotta adjust the plug to the scribe yourself and do the blow test until you get it in the right position.(the sure fire way)
i returned my TCV from IPD after a couple weeks, lost my boost. put stock back on and im golden, but im curious to try again.
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Re: (peter_reece2003)

Quote, originally posted by peter_reece2003 »


No. he's saying pay absolutely no attention to that red line .you gotta adjust the plug to the scribe yourself and do the blow test until you get it in the right position.(the sure fire way)

Correct. Look closely at the picture and you will be able to identify the "scribe". The red line has no bearing on the orientation of the pass-through in the plug. If you orient the plug so that the pass-through is aligned with the red line, you *will* get overboost, every single time
.

Also: Note the orientation of the TCV itself. Mine had the IPD lettering on the other side, which caused confusion as well. I then noticed that the square notch in the silver portion of the body did not match the picture above, and so took the plug out to orient it with certainty. Align the port in the plug to the hole in the body which can be seen with the plug out of the body. Do the blow-test, and all should be good.

:edit:

Below - the *correct* orientation of the plug is marked with the yellow line. If you now look at the other picture after referencing th eyellow line below, you may be able to see the scribe.

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Re: (DGBibo)

Is it me or are a lot of people replacing an otherwise working TCV with the IPD unit and having major issues?

It seems the cost and labor involved trying to get the IPD TCV to work as well as the stock unit that came out, are extensive.


I wonder why the part arrives out of adjustment to begin with? You'd think they'd come ready to bolt on. I've never had to "relearn" the ECM after a stock TCV replacement and for the most part, never replaced too many in the field. Maybe just a handful.
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Re: (Oceans60R)

Quote, originally posted by Oceans60R »
Is it me or are a lot of people replacing an otherwise working TCV with the IPD unit and having major issues?

It seems problems arose with the "out of spec" batch, and the misalignment of the plug.

It seems the cost and labor involved trying to get the IPD TCV to work as well as the stock unit that came out, are extensive.


Price for the part is about the same. There is no labor involved if you perform the blow-test *prior* to installing the HD TCV

I wonder why the part arrives out of adjustment to begin with? You'd think they'd come ready to bolt on. I've never had to "relearn" the ECM after a stock TCV replacement and for the most part, never replaced too many in the field. Maybe just a handful.

They aren't all out of adjustment. Mine arrived fine, but that stupid picture with the red line messed me up (that, and I didn't have the harness plugged in completely) and made me un-adjust it to match the line.

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Re: (Oceans60R)

Cost and labor? IPD unit is pretty cheap and takes a few short minutes to hook it up. Furthermore majority of the people including myself had no issues with it. I noticed a great improvement in terms of how soon and smooth the boost built after I replaced mine at around 50k miles.
Re: (xman03)

Labor as in taking the old one out and putting the new one it and then back out to adjust and then adjust again, then call IPD to ask WTF? Then getting on SS and searching for HD TCV Problems, posting, back to car to wrap lips around new valve and blow it.

I'm just saying I've seen a lot of threads with issues with this valve and people are spending good money on a product that otherwise is replacing a perfectly good part and then having drivability issues that were not there before.

I understand this has not happened to everyone but there have been many issues and some have resorted to putting the original back on to "fix" it
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Re: (Oceans60R)

But once working correctly it's day and night difference between the IPD and the stock one, especially with some miles on it. In the end it is worth it.
Re: (xman03)

Not to mention the fact that what IPD did was sell us a valve which will last the lifetime of your vehicle. What Volvo did was sell us a car where the valve lasts 15k miles or 3 WOT runs, whichever comes first. I've had my car for 1 year and bought 2 replacement TCV's from Volvo after the one that was on there crapped out, then the 2nd after about 2 months, then the 3rd, literally, after installing it and doing some hard pulls.\

I don't have any abnormal oil blow-by either, as I checked that out over the weekend. I'll be happy to clean the IPD TCV every year or so, and enjoy not having to purchase another one, ever.
Re: (Oceans60R)

Quote, originally posted by Oceans60R »
Is it me or are a lot of people replacing an otherwise working TCV with the IPD unit and having major issues?

It seems the cost and labor involved trying to get the IPD TCV to work as well as the stock unit that came out, are extensive.


I wonder why the part arrives out of adjustment to begin with? You'd think they'd come ready to bolt on. I've never had to "relearn" the ECM after a stock TCV replacement and for the most part, never replaced too many in the field. Maybe just a handful.

Hello Oceans,

We agree with your point. We don't like seeing customers have to go through this sort of thing (and they shouldn't have to) , so I will follow up with Lucky, our R&D manager and see if we can get some clarification around this as it's my understanding that this should pretty much be a plug and play product.

We did have a few that needed adjustment last summer in the initial release, but it was my understanding that we addressed that with the valve manufacturer. Possibly we need to have them bench tested prior to shipping, but whatever it takes, we'll do it. I will also have Lucky follow up on the above mentioned thread that discusses adjusting the valve to clarify what appears to be a confusing procedure.

Thanks!
I do know that if the base wastegate is out of spec, you can run into overboost situations. We strongly advise against blind wastegate adjustment, ( i.e. crank it up a few turns and see how she does....) . Our position is that adjusting the wastegate to the upper end of the factory spec using a low pressure gauge is the only safe way to do it. Not saying that is the cause in this particualr case, but it has been the cause of overboosting in most cases.

Lucky is out until Monday, so look for a response from him early next week.

Modified by Scott Hart at 10:01 AM 3-27-2009
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Re: (Scott Hart)

Quote, originally posted by Scott Hart »

I do know that if the base wastegate is out of spec, you can run into overboost situations. We strongly advise against blind wstegate adjustment, ( i.e. crank it up a few turns and see how she does....) . Our position is that adjusting the wastegate to the upper end of the factory spec using a low pressure gauge is the only safe way to do it. Not saying that is the cause in this particualr case, but it has been the cause of overboosting in most cases.

I'll agree with that http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
Properly setting the wastegate takes time and special tools which most people do not posses. The procedure takes a little time but any dealer is required to have the special tools to set the wastegate properly. Finding a dealer to set the wastegate properly may take some time and some talking shop to a tech in order to find one who knows how to do this

I'm glad IPD is taking a look at this. Being a tech myself and reading some posts about drivability issues after installtion of new parts, only reinforces what I have learned in my almost 18 years in the field, its either a bad part that was installed, or whoever installed such part, did something wrong during installation.

GJ IPD! I'm still a customer and still recommend many of the parts you sell to my customers. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
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Re: (Scott Hart)

This is what makes IPD a great company to do business with.
I've read a few past posts about the problems people have had with this TCV and decided to just wait it out. Now that Scott has gotten involved, I know the problems will be addressed and resolved.
Now it's time to order my TCV.

Thanks Scott and IPD.
Mine should be here on the second of april and since it took so long to get it shipped ou they were back ordered they even threw in free shipping and some ipd decals good guys so far from my experiance
Re: (97GLTbrick)

I had some major overboost issues when i first installed my TCV and did the proper "break in". I asked Lucky about it and he suggested to do a hard reset of the ECU. Remove the battery terminals and touch them together for a few seconds. I then drove the car for a fewdays moderately withought going more than half boost and things were fine since then.
Re: (Ride R)

To help gain some clarity on this part I've compiled a few answers to some common questions we've recieved lately. Hope this helps, but if you have further questions don't hesitate to ask!

Q. Is the HD TCV ready to go when I buy it or does it need adjustment?
A. The HD TCV is ready to install right when you recieve it from Ipd and no adjustment is necessary.

Q. What is the gate valve adjustment on the HD TCV and when should I use it?
A. For most users you'll never need to adjust this unless you've taken the valve apart to clean it and are putting it back together. The purpose of the gate valve is to allow for more range of adjustment that may be needed with cars running significantly larger than factory turbochargers. This is useful primarily with turbos that spool late and hard.

Q. I've taken my HD TCV apart to clean it, how do I properly set the gate valve?
A. The gate valve should be set so that the airflow passage in the valve allows for full flow between ports. To test this you can perform what is referred to as the 'blow test'.

To check the TCV via the 'blow test'....
Here's how to test if you have it correct.
Note the red 'button'on the bottom of the valve.
This is a manual operation button, you'll use it to test flow.

Blow into the port labeled #2.
You should get flow through the valve to port#3.
If you cover port #3 while blowing NO air should escape through port #1.

Now blow through port #2 again and press and hold the red button.
Flow should now go to port #1
If you cover port #1 while blowing NO air should escape through port #3.

If you find air escaping where it shouldn't adjust the oreintation of the plug and it's port until you achieve correct flow as noted about.


Q. Does the wastegate setting matter in regard to boost development and how the TCV operates?
A. Yes, Absolutely! The TCV and wastegate operate a bit like a teeter totter. One certainly affects the other. If the wastegate is too tight it can actually cause the car to run with a lower overall boost level given a set throttle position. Additionally the TCV could be adjusted to compensate for this but it would not be the appropriate way to do it as again, the wastegate would be the root issue.

Q. Is the re-learn procedure really necessary?
A. Yes, the relearn procedure is intended to allow the ECU to develop the maximum boost the tune allows. For example, if a factory TCV were weak or defective and the ECU had adapated to it, then installing the HD TCV would only bring boost levels to that adapted value. The re-learn procedure allows for a 'clean slate' from which to operate from. Recall that ME7 is a torque based, not boost based system.

Q. How can the HD TCV uncover issues that the stock TCV did not show?
A. The HD TCV is a highly precise, fast acting valve that provides a high level of boost control. The ECU will be able to see more precisely how the engine/turbo system responds to boost control outputs from the ECU. If there are other components that are weak or lethargic (Boost pressure sensor, CBV, boost tubing leaks, etc..) they may begin to show up as the factory TCV may have 'smoothed' out the signals that otherwise were weak or faulty.

Q. Should I hard reset my ECU before running the adaption process?
A. Not required but it doesn't hurt to be sure you're ECU is starting from base adaption values.

Hope that helps, let me know if there are any other ?'s
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