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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Every Volvo shop, even independent, should have VIDA correct? I'm going to ask him when I call him in the morning, but I wanted to make sure that wasnt a ludicrous question to even ask him. I'm going to hopefully have him look for all of the usual culprits of issues, but also want to have him scan the car with VIDA and see if he can get the serial number on the transmission as well. Wish me luck and a short list of serious issues!
 

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Good luck. Just picked up an 06 SR GT a few weeks ago, its amazeballs. Have fun. That first drive home is amazing and I'll never forget it, luckily for me it was 2 and a half hours, doin 9 in the rain for a hour of that. Felt surreal.
 

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What shop are you taking it to? I assume from your username you're in Denver? If so I highly recommend Bob's Volvo on East Colfax. And yes, they definitely have Vida and will pull codes as part of their standard Pre-Purchase Inspection.
 

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I can't recall if you can find the serial # in VIDA, but if not it's just a quick peek down behind the air box.

For your reference:

TNN43-53-2006-12-21 Title: Auto Trans - TF80-SC Diagnostic Information Summary - Valve Body Replacement.
This document summarizes customer complaints related to the 6 speed Automatic Transmission (TF80-SC) and should be used together with the information in VIDA.

The Valve Body should be replaced to address the following symptoms:
1. Customer complaints about 2-3 upshift quality. The shift may be described as harsh, or as a shudder. The symptom is usually more apparent during the first few minutes of driving after a cold start.
2. Customer complaints of shudder when slowing down, just before coming to a stop. The symptom may also be described as a harsh downshift just before coming to a stop.
3. Neutral condition in 4th, 5th & 6th gear; normal behavior in 1st, 2nd, 3rd & Reverse. One or more of the following DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) may be present: P073400, P073500, P072900, P089600.
4. Neutral condition in all gears except 5th & Reverse, usually with DTC P273300 set. DTCs for gear ratio(s) may also be set such as P073000, P073100, P073200, or P073400.
Note: Transmissions starting with serial number 06J and later already have the latest valve body which is designed to prevent these symptoms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What shop are you taking it to? I assume from your username you're in Denver? If so I highly recommend Bob's Volvo on East Colfax. And yes, they definitely have Vida and will pull codes as part of their standard Pre-Purchase Inspection.
I am in Denver, i appreciate the referral. I'm actually having it looked at by Tim's Volvo in Arvada. Hopefully it's a good shop too.
 

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I am in Denver, i appreciate the referral. I'm actually having it looked at by Tim's Volvo in Arvada. Hopefully it's a good shop too.
I just saw your post about the 4C front strut replacement. I just had mine done at Bob's with parts I sourced from Amazon and the labor charge was super reasonable. I'm traveling for work so I don't have the numbers handy but PM with a reminder and I'll look them up when I get home Friday.
 

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If Tim is the guy I'm thinking of, he's extremely knowledgeable about P2 R cars and he's also active in the local Volvo club. I've never heard of a particularly bad Volvo indy shop in the area though, and all of them, as well as many local amateur mechanics like me, have VIDA, which you are welcome to use any time you want.

Also, join us for club drives, we do about one a month from March to October. We also do a drag race meet at Bandimere with BBQ and lots of car talk. There's friendly competition and really sad real world data on how little good your expensive mods did. hehehe. Watch the regional forum for meet info, or friend the club facebook page so FB notifies you of meets.


edit: I just searched some of your post history and I posted all this info last time you asked. LOL. It's all still true though, the local club has some pretty cool guys and girls in it if I do say so myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for all of the help and I'll definitely keep everyone posted on the results of the inspection. I'm crossing my fingers.
 

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Passion Red. Tasty. Good luck.
 

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FYI, these cars have a lot of different stuff that can go bad, and lazy owners don't want to get it fixed.

I would not expect any used R to be "perfect", I expect them all to have at least a couple issues. The problem comes when the previous owner will not come down on price even with several expensive to fix problems pointed out.

Don't over look a good R just beacuse of a couple small issues that can be easily fixed, as long as the previous owner is willing to negotiate on price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
FYI, these cars have a lot of different stuff that can go bad, and lazy owners don't want to get it fixed.

I would not expect any used R to be "perfect", I expect them all to have at least a couple issues. The problem comes when the previous owner will not come down on price even with several expensive to fix problems pointed out.

Don't over look a good R just beacuse of a couple small issues that can be easily fixed, as long as the previous owner is willing to negotiate on price.
I appreciate the input. I'll make sure to keep a reasonable head when looking at the inspection. I should have it tomorrow morning, so I'll let everyone know if I have any questions. If it all goes right, I'm hoping to drive it this weekend and go from there. Thanks again for all of the information.
 

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I can look up a lot of the service history as well. I would also recommend Voltek. They do a great job. I usually do all the service myself but I have been there a couple times.

Sent from my LGLS770 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Results are in and I'd love to hear everyone's opinions. Besides the slightly curb rashed wheels, licence plate light out and dinged right front headlight, here's the list:

- drivers seat switch holder broken
- tailgate latch message on DIM, thinking it's the switch itself
- original timing belt on the car at just about 98k
- both front strut mounts are cracked
- slight leak in one front strut

Codes from the car (I dont know Volvo codes but he told me what they were on the phone and most seem minor except the first one):

DIM 0007
PDM 0022
PSM 0023
UEM 0080
CCM 0040
REM 4F42, 43, 44 and 45
UEM 0083

Any insight would be great! Thanks again.
 

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Results are in and I'd love to hear everyone's opinions. Besides the slightly curb rashed wheels, licence plate light out and dinged right front headlight, here's the list:

- drivers seat switch holder broken
- tailgate latch message on DIM, thinking it's the switch itself
- original timing belt on the car at just about 98k
- both front strut mounts are cracked
- slight leak in one front strut

Codes from the car (I dont know Volvo codes but he told me what they were on the phone and most seem minor except the first one):

DIM 0007
PDM 0022
PSM 0023
UEM 0080
CCM 0040
REM 4F42, 43, 44 and 45
UEM 0083

Any insight would be great! Thanks again.
DIM 0007 or DEM 0007?
 

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here's a list of codes someone put together if you want to take a look:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=81259

here's my 2cents.. seat side panel, easy fix maybe $20, tailgate/trunk problems can be from a broken wiring harness where it passes between the gate and body, 10 years need timing belt kit, and depending on how much the strut has leaked you might be able to drive it a while, but eventually you'll need at least two front struts and spring seats. Maybe control arm bushings while you are there.

The experts here will have to help you with the codes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thank you very much for the opinion! I'm hoping I could get by with just the timing belt and the spring seats for a little while before needing to replace the struts themselves, but it depends on how bad it's leaked. If I can just start with those, as long as it drives well, I'm definitely interested. I know that the pressure switch code could be fixed by replacing the switch, and the guy that looked at the car said he didn't think it was the pump. He also said the angle gear seems good and there is no noise from there.
 

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Doesn't look like anything major. I'd say if the price is right, go for it. I would suggest using the report to bargain the price down further.
 

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Sorry. It's a hand written inspection report. It's DEM 0007.
DEM 0007 suggests an AWD fault within the Haldex system. Likely the temp/pressure sensor or the AOC pump itself. Sensor is around $150, pump is around $300. Labor is roughly an hour or so, pretty easy. Just a note, since that's a code I've actually dealt with myself.

Faulty pump/sensor isn't a big deal, but something you probably want to deal with if you want to have AWD and don't want to burn up your DEM, which is a more costly repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Sorry. It's a hand written inspection report. It's DEM 0007.
DEM 0007 suggests an AWD fault within the Haldex system. Likely the temp/pressure sensor or the AOC pump itself. Sensor is around $150, pump is around $300. Labor is roughly an hour or so, pretty easy. Just a note, since that's a code I've actually dealt with myself.

Faulty pump/sensor isn't a big deal, but something you probably want to deal with if you want to have AWD and don't want to burn up your DEM, which is a more costly repair.
Is that a job I can do myself on jack stands? Or do you have to drain anything and be on a lift?
 
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