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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi community;<p>I have sorted out 99% of the little problems my car was giving me; most of them were due to oxidated electrical contacts. I replaced the connectors and now everything works perfectly except for the tach; it won't tell me what RPM's my engine is doing. The white/red cable was connected correctly when I looked and it is still... is the instrument itself kaputt? How should the signal coming from the wire be measured and what should it look like?<p>The other problem I have are vibrations. I changed the rubber coupling (the one near the gearbox) in the prop shaft/drive axle or how it is called and things got much better but still it isn't perfect.<p>Can the middle support bearing be a cause? I must add there is a whine sometimes, a whine that changes frewuency with the car's speed. The joints seem to be alright; there is no play if I turn the one tube one way and the other one the other way and backwards. Are there other possibilities?<p>Thank you in advance for your help!
 

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Re: Have two problems with my 240. (SuperBrick)

Has the tach ever functioned correctly? Is it a Volvo tach in the dash? When you did the electrical work did you remove the instrument cluster?<p>The vibration could be the driveshaft center support bearing/bushing - did you disassemble the driveshaft when installing the rubber coupling?<p>The whine could be a failing rear wheel bearing or wrong/low lube in the differential or faulty speedometer sensor in the diff.<p>George Dill<p>
 

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Re: Have two problems with my 240. (SuperBrick)

Coincidently, I have posted about differential whine on this board. The first time that I posted, the diff oil was actually low. The second time that I posted, the rear end was actually full. <br>After inspection, I actually found out that my transmission mount was completely "gone" and the drive train was out of alignment. Even though the two front mounts were replaced about five years ago, and less than 10,000 miles, I had them all replaced again, and the whining noise stopped. <br>I had to coerce my Volvo "expert" to let me under the car while on the lift to inspect it myself, and sure enough, the transmission mount was mush... which also caused the knocking noise under acceleration, which was diagnosed as a bad engine bearing. <br>So much for the "(blanking)" "experts".
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Have two problems with my 240. (gdill2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>gdill2</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has the tach ever functioned correctly? Is it a Volvo tach in the dash? When you did the electrical work did you remove the instrument cluster?<p>The vibration could be the driveshaft center support bearing/bushing - did you disassemble the driveshaft when installing the rubber coupling?<p>The whine could be a failing rear wheel bearing or wrong/low lube in the differential or faulty speedometer sensor in the diff.<p>George Dill<p></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Hi George;<p>Thank you for your help.<p>The tach is on the left in the instrument cluster. It has never worked in the month that I own the car. I removed the instrument cluster completely as I wanted to repair the odometer reset knob.<p>I didn't disassemble the driveshaft, I just released the bearing support plate so I could lower the shaft just enough to change the coupling and then I put the shaft back together the way it was (I put marks on shaft and gearbox output).<p>I will check into that. Oil level should be flush with the lower edge of the filling hole? I had to pass the car through the state inspection here in Luxembourg and they didn't say nothing about the bearings (no play in them); is there another way to check this? If the speedometer sensor is dying should the speedometer play crazy by times? I ask because up to now this has not been the case.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>JBLasVegas</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Coincidently, I have posted about differential whine on this board. The first time that I posted, the diff oil was actually low. The second time that I posted, the rear end was actually full. <br>After inspection, I actually found out that my transmission mount was completely "gone" and the drive train was out of alignment. Even though the two front mounts were replaced about five years ago, and less than 10,000 miles, I had them all replaced again, and the whining noise stopped. <br>I had to coerce my Volvo "expert" to let me under the car while on the lift to inspect it myself, and sure enough, the transmission mount was mush... which also caused the knocking noise under acceleration, which was diagnosed as a bad engine bearing. <br>So much for the "(blanking)" "experts". </TD></TR></TABLE><p>So I could change engine and transmission mounts too... When I am in the car in neutral and accelerate, should the car be diving to one side noticeably?<p>rudy<p><br>EDIT:<p>I checked the oil level in the differential and there was some oil missing. I topped it up but the noise is still there. I should have checked it right at the beginning. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> <BR><BR>
<i>Modified by SuperBrick at 5:11 AM 5-24-2009</i>
 

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Re: Have two problems with my 240. (SuperBrick)

In really old cars the grease in the centre hanger bearing can dry out which can cause some squealing and a slight rumble. If you have a needle fitting for your grease gun you may be able to get it past the seal on the bearing without damaging it too much, and re-grease the bearing by turning it slowly while you inject the grease. If you do this and your noise stops, you've found the cause, but be aware that the bearing is probably near to it's end, so keep an eye on it.
 

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Re: Have two problems with my 240. (John2x240)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>John2x240</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In really old cars the grease in the centre hanger bearing can dry out which can cause some squealing and a slight rumble. If you have a needle fitting for your grease gun you may be able to get it past the seal on the bearing without damaging it too much, and re-grease the bearing by turning it slowly while you inject the grease. If you do this and your noise stops, you've found the cause, but be aware that the bearing is probably near to it's end, so keep an eye on it.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>This sounds feasible; I hope I can find a thin enough grease gun for the job. Thanks!
 

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Re: Have two problems with my 240. (SuperBrick)

<A HREF="http://images.google.com/images?as_q=&hl=en&btnG=Google+Search&as_epq=grease+gun+needle&as_oq=&as_eq=&imgtype=&imgsz=&imgw=&imgh=&as_filetype=&imgc=&as_sitesearch=&safe=images&as_st=y" TARGET="_blank">http://images.google.com/image..._st=y</A><p>George Dill
 

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Re: Have two problems with my 240. (SuperBrick)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>SuperBrick</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>This sounds feasible; I hope I can find a thin enough grease gun for the job. Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE><p>It's not the size of the gun, what you have to get is the needle fitting. It looks like a hypodermic needle with a nipple on the end that plugs into the regular fitting on the shaft or flex hose attached to the gun. You should be able to get one at any good auto shop which sells tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Have two problems with my 240. (John2x240)

Ok, now I see what you mean. I was thinking of using a little manual device I have for bicycle bearings (hubs mainly). This weekend I will try to do the job.
 

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Re: Have two problems with my 240. (SuperBrick)

You'll need a fairly thin needle to get past the seal on the bearing without doing too much damage to it.
 

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Re: Have two problems with my 240. (John2x240)

Little update:<p>I had the hicc-up problem once again this weekend, so I took off the fuel tank, sand-blasted all the grunge out and then vacuumed the grunge out... what a difference! I now will order a kit to seal the metal in order to prevent it from rusting again.<p>Tach: I took a closer look at the whole issue and I found out that the white/red cable gives me no signal. I don't know why I assumed I was in my first post... I had no continuity between the connector and the ign. coil so I looked further. The big problem here is that there was an aftermarket anti-theft device installed once and the install is always a hack job IMHO. Long story short: Routed new cable from coil to cluster and it is fine now.<p>Bearing: Did not try to grease as I had no needle handy. Will try to source one this week.<p>Oh, the car manages to get up to 200kp/h on a downhill; I was impressed! And it didn't feel wobblier than my previous Golf Wagon.<p>Greetings
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update: 2 years later, I found out a rodent had divided the red/white cable going from the ignition coil to the rpm-meter. Will correct that tomorrow.

Bearing has long been replaced; what a difference!

Other updates:
-It had a cracked head and thus consumed a lot of water, found one in a junkyard and since then no problems anymore.
-Found and installed the 3rd brake light.
-Installed Sachs Advantage Gas dampers in the rear.
-Upgraded the air-conditioning to R134.
-Installed a Cruise Control system.

To-do list:

-Find me a set of Geminis.
-Front shock absorbers.
-Replace all the bushings.
-ipd Sway bars.
 
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