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Thanks all of you for your answers.

I think there is no need of an aggressiv street setup. Just use the the track setting 10/5 or wet track setting 15/5

Really looking forward to the tool!
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
For some reason my car was set at 15 front, 8 rear from the factory. It is being changed to the standard 10/10 right now to try to alleviate the float in the front end. We'll see how the new setup, which was supposed to be the factory setup feels.
 
Didn't check yet. Pushed the car pretty hard a couple of times and noticed more understeering behaviour than expected. This with traction control on because disabling the TC often takes longer than the trip made.. Totally stupid decision to hide that function deep in the MyCar menu btw..
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Both myself and the Volvo Tech are dumbfounded at how this tool is going to work for the rear. Neither of us can see anyway that the adjustment can be accessed without bringing down the shock, but neither of us are engineers. The front adjustments are super easy. Simply turning a dial. The rear adjustments are similar, except that the shock needs to be removed to access the dial. I'm very intrigued to see how this tool is going to work.
 
Both myself and the Volvo Tech are dumbfounded at how this tool is going to work for the rear. Neither of us can see anyway that the adjustment can be accessed without bringing down the shock, but neither of us are engineers. The front adjustments are super easy. Simply turning a dial. The rear adjustments are similar, except that the shock needs to be removed to access the dial. I'm very intrigued to see how this tool is going to work.
What about accessing from the interior behind the panel? The tool may reach in around to the adjustment knob.
 
Thanks all of you for your answers.

I think there is no need of an aggressiv street setup. Just use the the track setting 10/5 or wet track setting 15/5

Really looking forward to the tool!
Yes there is and yes it was me who asked. The reason is that if you drive in places that don't value public roads and transport (98% of North America) as much as they do where you live, Foxy, a setting for rougher surfaces than a typical race track are needed. That's what some of us are stuck driving on all the time.
 
Hard setting for the front generally gives more understeer, while a hard setting in the rear will generally give more oversteer.
Despite what I just said and asking for an official response, this is really all anyone needs to know. If the front and rear are kept the same, softer or harder, it should not change the balance. If you personally would prefer less understeer (because let's be honest, every single car on the road including some pretty expensive exotics, is designed with "safe" understeer as the default), you will have to experiment until it feels appropriate and better for you. Some people will want more liveliness in the rear than others.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
What about accessing from the interior behind the panel? The tool may reach in around to the adjustment knob.
It's possible. The Tech jokingly said the tool could be a Sawzall that cuts out the interior panel to get at the knob.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
One other thing, I was able to get a copy of the instructions for the adjustments, including diagrams. I will just need a little time to get my scanner working and to be given Permissions to "Post Attachments"
 
Thanx. If i understand you correctly ... They don't host images on this forum. You can only link to an image hosting service.
 
It's possible. The Tech jokingly said the tool could be a Sawzall that cuts out the interior panel to get at the knob.
Ohlins already makes an adjustment extension cable that would work like this, you'd just need to make a small hole in the panels for it to fit through. One of the forum members, Daniel01, looked into it, but his tech said there is something in the way on the right side that might block the cable. My guess is the polestar tool will get around this. I'm hoping the final product, once installed, will be permanently in place. Here's a link that shows an ohlins coilover install for a BMW that shows the extension cables. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=673428
 
Discussion starter · #34 · (Edited)
Then why is there an entire FAQ about posting image attachments? http://forums.swedespeed.com/faq.php?faq=vb3_reading_posting#faq_vb3_attachments
Standard unmodified faq of the forum software that may not be enabled to the public. I often see it used only by staff for articles as a) the forum may not have disk space and/or b) probably want to limit bandwidth usage by not hosting images on their own service. I imagine we'll see if that policy is categorical or not ether here or a future post of yours.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Standard unmodified faq of the forum software that may not be enabled to the public. I often see it used only by staff for articles as a) the forum may not have disk space and/or b) probably want to limit bandwidth usage by not hosting images on their own service. I imagine we'll see if that policy is categorical or not ether here or a future post of yours.
It's a mute point. I was getting blank images when I was trying to post the images within the posts at first but got it corrected. There was no need to attach them, so I have no need to pursue it any further. I created the new thread just to make it easier for everyone to find the instructions.
 
Ah, that thread. yep, very good. Thanks for that.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
After going for a long drive on the 10/10 setup today my overall impression is that it is not for me. The car feels too heavy with this setup. It solved the floating issue but planted the car too much. I totally get why this is the factory setting(safety first). The roads were slick and twisty and the car could not be upset. After driving on the 15/8 setup for the last 3 months, it almost felt, dare I say, boring.

15 was too soft for the front, so I'm thinking maybe 12 up front. I may make that change and see how it feels before changing the back again but ultimately I think I will end up back at 8 in the rear. I really loved how my car always drove minus the floating behavior. Everyone who had driven it previously commented on how it felt so much lighter than it was. Today, it felt like it was 4,000+lbs. It's pretty amazing how these small adjustments can make the car feel so drastically different.
 
After going for a long drive on the 10/10 setup today my overall impression is that it is not for me. The car feels too heavy with this setup. It solved the floating issue but planted the car too much. I totally get why this is the factory setting(safety first). The roads were slick and twisty and the car could not be upset. After driving on the 15/8 setup for the last 3 months, it almost felt, dare I say, boring.

15 was too soft for the front, so I'm thinking maybe 12 up front. I may make that change and see how it feels before changing the back again but ultimately I think I will end up back at 8 in the rear. I really loved how my car always drove minus the floating behavior. Everyone who had driven it previously commented on how it felt so much lighter than it was. Today, it felt like it was 4,000+lbs. It's pretty amazing how these small adjustments can make the car feel so drastically different.
It is great--having adjustable dampers is an awesome feature that allows the tuning of the car to suit your own preferences. This is not soft/sport/etc. like most cars with electronically adjustable suspension, but true tuning for oversteer and understeer.

You car initially came with settings for slippery surfaces--ice or a wet track where you needed to push the car hard, but lower than desired grip. A very strange setting that not many people would want for everyday driving...unless you lived in Scandinanvia in the winter maybe. The floatiness is what prevents the car from understeering off the end of every corner under hard braking.

Now you are trying the standard setting. It should feel as boring as it is possible to make a P* boring. Think about two things before you make the next adjustment:

1) are the roads you travel on typically smooth or rough? Do you find the overall ride stiffness acceptable...too hard...not stiff enough? Then make a new "boring" base setting of the same front and rear, possibly adding or subtracting the same amount from 10 on each corner.

2) does the car understeer more than you want? Make sure you test using ESC OFF, which is the only time the car has a proper F:R balance. Yes, proper. The P* should have the ESC OFF Haldex settings by default. Unless you intend to never use ESC OFF, test with that because otherwise you might end up with too much oversteer after an adjustment. If you want a bit less understeer, dial the rear harder and the front softer from your base. I would suggest two clicks harder at the rear for every one click softer at the front. You may only need F+1 and R-2 or F+2 and R-4 from your base setting. Can't imagine going more extreme than that.

By the way, if the car doesn't understeer too much for your liking, then don't touch it.
 
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