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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Air intake leak or PCV?

Just a PSA about how great this forum is. CEL last night, updated my vida VM this AM https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?481385-VIDA-Dice-2014D-VM-Image-Download-Link, read the dtc's, totally guessed likely fix, replaced MAF (~210K on orig) and BAM!!

note; was stoked to get VIDA up and running again last year. Still unable to solve air intake dtc's. All efforts to replace sensors/ parts a big fkn waste of time. Still a big shout out to the dude that posted the VM image.:beer::beer::beer:

UPDATE: Solved - see last post :)
 

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Happiness is a screen full of green.


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I didn't know that was even possible.......My 2 R's are like spoiled kids and always having some red even after fixing one thing something else lights up. Congratulations on yours, hopefully I'll get there one day.
 

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262A is almost always caused by a plugged pcv, A carboned up throttle plate, Or a bad MAF. To be sure its fixed you go to vehicle communication, ECM, Parameters, Short term fuel trim. Value should stay at or approx, 1. Typically the value will slightly fluctuate from .098 to 1.02. If you see it up around 1.10 theres a ir fuel ratio issue still. You should also use vida to reset the throttle body adaption.
 

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There is no pressure at timing belt side crank seal. Oil pump is in front of it, so pressurized crankcase will have no effect on it.
Your faults are due to something else likely. Is the engine fully stock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There is no pressure at timing belt side crank seal. Oil pump is in front of it, so pressurized crankcase will have no effect on it.
Your faults are due to something else likely. Is the engine fully stock?
OK understand re: crank seal. thanks

Yes engine is 100% stock. you do not suspect pcv clog?
 

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Check freeze frame data for those particular faults and post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
SOLVED! After troubleshooting and replacing parts for about a year - vacuum leak was actually the evap check valves. R&R'd OE part# 30757307 on May11. Drove for past 2 weeks no codes - perfect.

Symptoms just in case anyone is troubleshooting: Intermittent high idle, intermittent dtc's ECM 6614, 130a, 990a, 262a. Intermittent symptoms of low boost, high idle, CEL would come and go. Jebus what change the new hose made. Like new - drives amaze

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·


After installing hose I was so stoked to test drive I forgot to tighten OTE to intercooler hose clamp. 2 blocks from my house - POOF - blew off the hose. stall. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hoping for a clue to track possible brake vacuum pump issue/ hard pedal before starting... but noooooooo!

Zero DTC's found :)

125975
 

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Once upon a time mine used to be green like that xD only a few right now but it’s a ongoing battle
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
TL;DR - always clear those codes and drive for a few days before freakin out/ researching parts to replace (and driveway wrenching drama on your daily driver

After a couple battery disconnects and working on a few nits over the last 6 mos - did a quick scan and saw few DTC's. I had zero dash warnings or anything to indicate any issues. One DTC was indicting SAS communication error, etc. holee crap what a pita that one.

Since last yr performed sunroof recalibration a couple times, replaced a few front and tail bulbs, replaced DRL bulb socket, replaced cabin/ hvac fan motor, brake vacuum pump, new turn signal stalk... front brake pads

Cleared all DTC's - drove it for a few days - and BABAMM! back to green!

So much relief I was looking into all sorts of shyte that I feared needed attention. Old volvo's rule

Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Multimedia
 
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