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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The directions I read say to move the screwdriver handle upwards to apply the shoes (then back off 4-5 notches).

This would mean turning the notched adjuster downward since the screwdriver is acting as a lever when inserted into the drum opening.

Took quite some time doing this - a notch at a time but eventually I moved the adjuster 10 notches. The shoes did NOT apply.

Before continuing the process I wanted to verify that I was in fact going the right direction.

There is a slight drag noise on the wheel I am adjusting, both before and after turning 10 notches. Both sides engage when the handbrake is applied but only the other spins quite freely w/ handbrake off.

I backed off the disc pads and the handbrake cable is quite slack when not applied so it would seem to be the shoes dragging.

The upper and lower shoe springs appear to be attached and they are taut - inspection done via the adjustment opening.

Drum removal for inspection not an easy task as all parts have been untouched for nearly 50 years. Drum retaining screw wont budge, caliper bolts and brake line are going to require considerable leverage. Will have to apply more Liquid Wrench and give it more time to soak in.


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So... moving the screwdriver handle up - thus turning downward the adjuster notches is how to apply?

Thanks for reading!
 

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I have done this on a couple of cars (Both 1973) but from memory, I cannot recall which way the screwdriver handle deflects. I'll have a look tonight in my brake parts bin as I think I have some old parking brake adjusters in there, but if the thread on the adjuster is right hand, the Greenbook instructions do seem counter intuative.

But, if you have made multiple adjustment attempts and its still not obvious, and still not having much sucess, then dismantling may be the only solution. I once also had no success adjusting, and decided to replace the shoes. After discovering that the old shoes were ok, upon re assembly (and lubricating the adjustment screw devices, springs, and pivoting surfaces) everything worked so much better and was able to be adjusted correctly.

Also, the cable adjustment is a critical step in the process once you have the shoes in a correct position, and when re assembling ensure that the very small spacers held in by the very small retaining springs are positioned correctly

Sounds like you have read the correct Greenbook, as my 142 green book echos your quote, unfortunately the "GreenBook" Service manual on the volvo1800pictures.com/ site only has an older version with the Drums on the rear, in which the adjuster type is a different arrangement.

Section 5.

http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_Service_manuals_en.php

But here is a clip from the 140 Green book.

Screen Shot 2019-07-09 at 10.19.48 AM.jpg
 

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Its been about 4-5 years since I did this on my 1971 140 and I remember significant confusion because I was not getting the result I expected. My recollection is that the screw in the adjuster is 'conventional' right handed. The 'screw up' here (excuse the pun) appears to be the orientation of the adjusting screw. In my 1971 green book (figure 5-80), the adjuster device is oriented 180 deg from how it is shown in the 5-76 figure provided by scaramoucheii. If your adjuster is oriented the same as in figure 5-76, then it has to be a downward motion on the screwdriver handle to expand the adjuster. However, oriented as per my 1971 service manual; pivot up gets the job done. There is a big 'however. I think there is also a left / right issue. Scaramoucheii's diagram clearly shows clockwise rotation of the wheel so presumably the right rear wheel. My 1971 manual shows counter clockwise rotation of the wheel so presumably the left rear wheel. The adjuster may be flipped 180 deg based upon normal wheel rotation in which case its pivot up on the left and pivot down on the right.

The salient feature I remember from the adjusting exercise was saying "f*****g stupid" a lot. Rather than do the pivot thing with the screwdriver, I just ended up pushing on the top or bottom side of the serrations - whatever was required to get the adjuster to expand. Then I went and had a beer. Out of curiosity I checked the parts manual which elicited some more adverbs because the up to 1972 parts manual shows the adjuster at the bottom of the parking brake drum which I don't think is even possible.

So, its possible that the orientation of the adjuster changed during the production run or that the adjuster is oriented differently on the left and right sides and that the green book fails to note that. Confusion reins!
 

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Ahh Ha .. Of Course,

And then to add to that ... Ole Sven back in Goteborg in '73, on a Friday Afternoon no doubt ... Decided to put the adjusters on upside down on the opposing sides ....

Guess the trick is to simply shine a light into the adjusting hole, decode the installation orientation, and then adjust away with confidence. This could also explain why mine worked so much better after I took them apart and re installed them, as I knew what the orientation was, and I had de rusted them and covered them with anti seize grease, so the movement was smooth and predictable

Here is a pic from my 142, with New Shoes, the mud guards POR15'd and, the adjuster wound all the way in ready to mount the disc. Not quite sure what I was measuring ....

IMG_6501.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
more on same

Thanks to all.

The 1800pictures green book is from 1966. I have the '72 ES specific green book PLUS a Haynes book.

Looking at the diagram that Scara posted, based on the threads it appears that moving the teeth upwards should extend the shoes outward, correct?

However if the adjuster is installed 180 degrees the reverse would be true, the 72 Green Book and my Haynes book show the adjuster the other way around, 180 deg. from the 140 book.

Looking in the adjustment hole mine appears to be in the position shown in the 140 book. Maybe the printer flopped the plates. Even to add to the confusion as 142guy alludes, check the underlined text from my manuals PLUS my parts cat. show mounted at the bottom also.

Guess it is going to have to come apart.

Photos: https://app.box.com/s/q4hlptinsjavw2ff5y4i3e455dsso73c
 

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Its been a while; but, on the 140 (I don't know about the 1800) I thought the adjustment hole was large enough that you could just see the serrated adjuster. Based upon where the serrated adjuster is located relative to a vertical line through the center of the axle, that should give you a clue as to whether the serrated adjuster is positioned like fig 5-76 or like figure 5-80. Might be worth having a look - save you pulling the disk off unless you want to.
 
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