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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I know there's at least 3 people who were complaining that their halogens were too low. It was maddening to adjust the screw and find it tap out without moving up enough. Well I figured it out...

The actual height adjustment screw is on the side (closest to the other lamp) of the headlight. There's a small service port to get at it. The only way I could adjust it in the car is with a two 1/4" extensions and a 1/4" -> 6mm hex socket. But this is the right screw, you can get it + 6 feet up or down at 20 feet back.

I'll try to get a picture, but it's pretty far down there. If you take the headlight out you can see it pretty clearly on the side.

The other adjustment is for left-right. It all makes sense now
 

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I think I saw this and figured it was for the high beam! Nice! I'll try it asap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: (theshadow27)

BTW, here's how you're suposed to line up the headlights. I'm sure everyone already knows this
but I'll repeat it for good measure.

Find a wall next to a level paved area. Bring tape and a tape measure and go there at night.

Measure 25' (8.3m) back from the wall, and mark that point with tape. Line up the car on the tape, then pull the 25' forward until the car is about touching the wall, and turn off the headlights.

Put a piece of tape on the wall directly in front of the center of the Volvo emblem. For you cool kids running mesh grills, guestimate where the center of the car is. We'll call this point "V"

Put a square piece of tape directly in front of each projector lens. That is, when looking at the top and front the side the piece of tape should be lined up with the bulb. These two pieces are called "C"

Pull the car straight back until the nose is sitting at the 25' mark. Turn back on the headlights (so you can see, remember it's nighttime
) and walk back to the wall. It's time for some artwork:



Connect the both "C" dots with a horizontal line "H." Then extend the dots for "V" and the two "C"s straight down as shown. Next, measure from the "H" line down 3" or 76mm and add another horizontal line parallel to "H"

Now, using the two screws (shown above) on each side, make the pattern look like this:


You actually want to aim them a bit to the left (~1") of the vertical lines through "C" to get a better throw on the road. This will put the "kink" on the double yellow, instead of in the center of your lane. Don't go too crazy or you'll start blinding people.

The goal is a 3" drop at 25', equal height on both sides. Remember to take the tape off when you're done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (jdsr917)

Quote, originally posted by jdsr917 »
With a simple search or a check of the sticky section you would find this ...

http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=22408

I saw that thread, and was still adjusting the wrong screw. I don't think I was the only one making that mistake. Just thought I'd clear it up http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: (theshadow27)

Can we just measure the height of the middle of the grill and mark that on the wall instead of moving the car around like some sort of weird night time ritual(as observed by bystanders)? lol


Wait so you guys didn't know there were two screws on each headlight?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: (sanatarium)

You could measure the height of each headlamp, then measure the distance from the ground to that height. It's generally more accurate and faster to do it with the car. It only has to move once... Once ya get the hang of it the whole thing takes about 4 minutes.

Yeah I knew there were two screws. I assumed, incorrectly, that the pitch adjustment would be at the top of the light and the yaw adjustment would be at the side, since that's where the light would have to pivot. It wasn't until I spotted the pitch screw at the bottom (thought it was at the top hidden somewhere) that I considered the possibility of additional intermediate gearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: (gonefly)

Quote, originally posted by gonefly »
what about for the 2008+ headlights?
About what?
 

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Ummm other thoughts guys? I tried it today and nothing...no movement, more "clicking" as I turned...maddening!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: (Veefifty T5AWD)

Pull the headlight out, remove the back cover, and look at the gear as you turn it. Is it trying to move the worm screw?

Also, does it go down but not up? Or no movement in either direction?

How are you judging movement? Looking at the lens assembly, or looking at the projection on a wall?
 

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Re: (theshadow27)

I'll take some pictures tonight in the car and out of my other set. For the up/down adjustment the side allen head adjustment is the way to go the white piece on top only works well raising and while squeezing the sides of it together other wise it will skip gears (clicking). If you get to the allen head the adjustment is reversed CW=Up CCW=down. There is a hole on the side to get at the adjustment but I haven't tried it yet, but it did appear that it doesn't line up perfectly. I think a ball allen could get at it though.
 

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Re: (slrising)

I am trying to adjust height on low beam halogens and I can see the yellow "nut" on the back of the assembly but it has some sort of white ring around it which does not allow me to get the head of my socket around the yellow nut. I tried to pry it off but did not try too hard in fear of breaking it?!

Any input is appreciated!!

Also, I replace the stock low beam bulbs with PIAA extreme whites and was very unimpressed for bulbs that run $70 plus per pair.

I am going to install Sylvanias in the fogs to compare.
 

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Re: (s40joe)

Oops, could have mentioned this a week or so ago. Didnt realize that people were adjusting the wrong screw. Yeah the other one just clicks, its the side 8mm allen that actually adjusts the height. Figured this out when my HID's were shooting in on coming traffics eyes
lol

If you use the actual allen section it shouldnt skip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: (s40joe)

Quote, originally posted by s40joe »
I am trying to adjust height on low beam halogens and I can see the yellow "nut" on the back of the assembly but it has some sort of white ring around it which does not allow me to get the head of my socket around the yellow nut. I tried to pry it off but did not try too hard in fear of breaking it?!

One of my headlights had a similar white clip. I just popped it off.

Quote, originally posted by ForceFed Motorsports »

If you use the actual allen section it shouldnt skip.
I never had a problem using the yellow ones. A hell of a lot easier to get at when they're in the car.
 
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