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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is my first post here.

So acquired the car I had only dreamed about in high school. I found a 2004 S60R with a broken turbo charger locally. Since my most recent love interest got engaged to another man this seemed like the perfect distraction. To sum it up, I got a hold of a new GT3071R and fit it to the car. So now I'm chasing down all the other problems of getting a used car. I have a tiny bit of PCV pressure, I'm waiting on parts to fix that.

So the whole point of this post:
There is a funny intermittent light scraping noise coming from under the car. I dropped the drive shaft and found that it was all kinds of worn out (bad center bearing bad front CV), but my scraping noise became pretty evident. On the input flange of the Haldex unit there is a vibration dampener like whats on the front of the engine. It's a ring attached to the flange by rubber. Well, the rubber had given up the ghost and the ring was not free to travel back and forth. It's been rubbing the pump on the Haldex unit a bit, but I don't think that it's rubbed it enough to get through the housing.

So now what should I do? I can barely find a picture of this dampener online, much less a replacement part. It looks like it is just one solid piece that is part of the flange. I was thinking about running without it. Another idea is pull the flange, weld on a hollow doughnut and put some stainless steel ball bearings (which I have just under 4,000 of) and let that take the place of the dampener and operate how wheel balancing beads work. Or yank the flange, cut the excess off (the part that holds the rubber for the dampener) and get it balanced. I searched this forum and the internet in general and I haven't seen anyone with this problem.

See post #7 for pics and #5 for the repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, the AWD seems to work just fine. I didn't even feel major driveline vibrations. I was pretty surprised when I found out that piece was loose. But #9 looks like the part. Can that even be bought (without selling a first born child)?
 

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If it has injected rubber holding the outer ring to the hub like an engine harmonic balancer/vibration dampener, then it may be rebuildable. There's a place called Damper Doctor that is highly regarded on the classic muscle car forums.

http://www.damperdoctor.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I haven't really figured out a trick I like to post pictures, so I've held off and forgotten to post my solution. I called up damper doctor and found out a little more. After having seen their prices and realizing the turn around time I hatched a plan.

They basically use silicone to make the new damper flex material. Well a trip to home depot later, I had a full tube of 100% pure silicone. Now the challenge was to find the position that the ring came off the hub and position it properly. I found three possible positions based on the rubber fins that connected it. I stuck it half on my scale in those three different positions, using coins to limit contact to the center of the scale and keep it level. I found the heavy spot in the hub and the light spot in the ring and marked them. Then I tore apart a pallet for one of the solid blocks in the ends to get a 6x6 inch block of wood. I drilled out the back in the middle about a half inch with some hole saws so I could chuck it up in a lathe. I then turned the block so that the hub and ring just fit onto it with a little grease to make the tight fit easy and keep silicone from sticking to the wood. Thanks to the lathe I now had a perfectly centered block for the pieces to fit together on. It also plugged the bottom side. I lined up the heavy and light spots and filled the gap with silicone. After about two days of drying, I pulled it off and patched the still wet bottom side.

It stayed fairly flexible. My drive shaft center bearing and front CV were toast, so I had the drive shaft shop out in Denver send me a new one. All back together and the drive line feels very smooth. Ultimately it cost me a tube of silicone (not counting the drive shaft).
 

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Clever repair!
My only concern is that the silicone from Home Depot is not very strong an tears very easily. It's more suited to be used as caulking or securing glass.

Industrial grade silicone is a two part mixture that uses a hardener. Kind of like epoxy. You can buy it in various durometer (hardness) and the cured silicone is tough. I bought some from a mold/sculpture supply store for another repair.

If/when you coupling falls apart, I would repeat the repair with the better stuff.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll have to check that industrial grade stuff out. Probably would be better.

So now I've figured out this picture thing so here are some pics to look at:

It doesn't look so bad from here...


Now it looks bad:


Chunk of pallet turned on a lathe to just fit. I threw some grease on it to make it side on easy and stop the silicone from sticking:


Fitting the damper ring:


Aligning the weight seemed important. I took my time making the silicone look uniform:


Back on the car:


Hmm suspicious looking car in the back ground wondering why I'm not working on it.

I do think that next time I'll try a better silicone. The gap is pretty much filled solid, so I would expect it to be pretty strong. Still it will get tons of road weather and grime down there. We shall see.
 

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It seems this would be easier to do before it becomes multiples pieces. Thanx and Nice documentation.
 

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Quick question gentlemen, how do you remove/take out the dumper? My shaft seem frozen in place, are there any special tools or techniques?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I can't remember how I did mine. It was probably a 3 jaw puller, but this won't work with the outer damper ring still on. I think other people use a bolt through the CV bolt holes to press against the housing. You may need some block between the aluminum housing and the bolt end to help from scaring it up. I've seen pictures of it here on sweedspeed.
Sent from my rotor-dial phone with the help of Cortana.
 

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Thanks for the response. I double checked and my damper seems okay. I am looking to have my drive shaft balanced, the front part to the angle gear and middle parts of the shaft are easy to take out but the rear part after removing the bolts is still stuck in the dumper, a bit frustrating...
 

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Thanks for the response. I double checked and my damper seems okay. I am looking to have my drive shaft balanced, the front part to the angle gear and middle parts of the shaft are easy to take out but the rear part after removing the bolts is still stuck in the dumper, a bit frustrating...
I don't recall the thread (maybe M13?) but it's in a thread somewhere. Anyway, you can put a bolt in the backside of the mating flange, and that will pop it free.
 
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