[ClarkKent]

Don't want to take to dealership and thought I'd ask the experts. 2010 Volvo XC60 T6 (52 miles) makes a grinding noise on the front passenger side when in REVERSE following a cold start (in the morning). The sound will go away immediately when the car is put in DRIVE or NEUTRAL, but will return when put it back in REVERSE. After cold start, when driving away it will briefly make the sound when driving away BUT, car rides fine and the sound will go away completely after driving for awhile. Plus, after driving for awhile, the sound will not return when putting in REVERSE.

I've been told its the engine/motor mounts but wanted to solicit feedback. It does seem like it's only coming from front passenger side. Can I diagnose without taking to dealership? If motor mounts, what is price estimate - high-end and low-end. If possible, I'm looking for a FAIR and HONEST service center in the Dallas area so any suggestions are greatly appreciated. If I can provide any additional information, please let me know. THANKS!

 

[ClarkKent]

I think I might have figured it out! artywave:

The mount on the left side of the engine (right side of car) is cracked. Please refer to the attached pics. The black rubber in the chrome arm is cracked. Is that what you would call an ENGINE TORQUE MOUNT? If so, what would be a solid price quote for parts and labor? I'm no mechanic but due to it's placement, it seems like a fairly straightforward repair.

Is there anything else I should consider? I can clearly see the mount is cracked. Thanks again and look forward to your feedback.

 

[qaz996]

There is a very good chance that cracked bushing is the source of the noise you hear. I would call it the right upper torque rod. I don't know how much the part is but labor would be about half a hour or less.

Since you're in that area, look at the right engine pad directly below (the black, cylindrical thing). You will see a black, rectangular rubber piece above it on the side nearest the passenger fender. If that is touching, or nearly touching (gap of 1/8" or so or less), that mount is collapsed. I would replace that as well.

The torque rod is very simple to replace. I think most people with a 15mm wrench/socket and 8mm wrench/socket (to move the coolant expansion tank) could replace it without any problem.

The engine pad below it, a customer would pay a little over an hour labor for a shop to replace it. If one has the means and confidence to support the engine, the right engine pad is fairly simple to replace as well.

Pay a Volvo dealer to do both, you should only pay labor for the engine pad since the torque rod must come out anyway. It's called overlapping labor. You would then have lifetime parts & labor warranty on them.

If you're so inclined, remove that torque rod and start the engine cold to see if the sound goes away.

 

[ClarkKent]

Thank you so much for the valuable information! Your feedback is greatly appreciated. I did have a follow-up regarding what you mentioned.

First, the torgue arm is definitely done - I can move it at will. Regarding the engine pad (the black cylindrical item) and the RUBBER PIECE ABOVE IT - I didn't see a rubber piece above it. I see engine pad, then a metal bracket with thick screw attached to the middle of the engine pad - NO rubber piece. I've tried to include pictures. Let me know if you'd like additional pics.

Is that the only way to tell if the engine pad is bad or collapsed? I can't see any irregularities in the pad. Thanks again for all your help and I look forward to your feedback.

 

[qaz996]

Between the bottom of that cast aluminum bracket and the top of the black, cylindrical engine pad will be that rubber piece to which I refer. It is actually part of the engine pad. It comes out of the top, center of the black cylinder like a "T". That 15mm bolt you see threads directly into it. 3 more 15mm bolts run through that bracket on the top of the engine. If you remove those without supporting the engine, your engine will try to fall on the ground.

If you step back and look under the cast aluminum bracket, the black rubber piece I mentioned in a new engine pad would be about 1/4" or so above the cylinder from which it arises holding that bracket off the cylinder. You would see a distinct gap.

If the rubber "T" is resting on the cylinder below or nearly so, that would indicated a collapsed engine pad.

 

[ClarkKent]

Thanks again for the info! I found a picture of the engine pad and I can see the "T" on top (see pic below).

Here's the update.... Obviously the torque arm needed replaced. The car still makes the grinding noise but, it's not as loud (primarily in reverse). You cannot tell if the "T" on the engine pad has been compromised. They didn't have the part in stock so they didn't disassemble. I can tell there seems to be pretty significant engine movement when you shift between R, N, and D.....just R makes the most noise. Also, I didn't mention it earlier but, when in Reverse there seems to be reverberation through the gas pedal.

Any thoughts on if you think replacing the ENGINE PAD will take care of it???? If not, I have NO other ideas on what it could be. YOUR THOUGHTS??? The sound has degraded but, there still is some. You were spot on with the overlapping labor - he has been honest so far and is going to charge me 1.1 hours for labor for everything.

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!! Your feedback and suggestions have been so helpful. The whole process shouldn't be this complicated but, it is. I'm so thankful for this forum!!!!!!!!artywave:

 

[ClarkKent]

UGH, as I drove more over the weekend. The grinding sound has intensified. Now it's pretty consistent when I'm driving.

 

[ClarkKent]

I want to thank this forum and a special thanks to qaz996 for your invaluable advice!!!!artywave:

Your advice was spot on! Obviously the torque needed replaced but, they engine pad was the MAIN culprit. More importantly, your feedback regarding costs and labor time were spot on. They charged me 1.1 hours - I didn't take it to a dealership but, I did goto a reliable place who charged the dealer rate. I checked with the 2 local dealers and they were DOUBLE the price.

The engineering behind that pad is amazing! It's much larger than I thought - the top piece that you mentioned was totally submerged into the top and fluid had started to come out.

Again, I can't thank this forum enough and the valued users out in the community! Your information is priceless and in my case was true life saver! I will surely continue to be a member and I have a few more questions I'd like to post....stay tuned! EVERYONE TAKE A BOW! THANKS AGAIN!!!! artywave:

 

[Groundhog]

2102 XC60 3.2 FWD
Horrible grinding and clunking sounding like major engine or transmission failure. Symptoms as described above.
Didn't have to find another car...

Easy job. Need: Tourque rod, Engine pad, Floor jack, 6" x 8" x 1.5" thick piece of wood, 15mm wrench, 15mm 1/2" drive socket, 1/2" joint or wobble drive (optional), 12"/30cm or 1/2 drive extension, torque wrench, 8mm wrench, screwdriver, tire iron or pry bar, marker pen.

(1) Car must be cool enough to open radiator cap. Loosen cap relieve any pressure.
-- Radiator tank has to move around, but not far enough to have to drain or disconnect anything.
(2) Put car in neutral, set emergency brake to eliminate load on front axle shafts. Can put back in park.
(3) Support right side of engine with floor jack using piece of wood to protect engine oil pan.
(4) Remove 8mm bolt holding radiator reservoir, lift other attachment point with screwdriver. Leave hoses on.
(5) Mark w/ pen, remove 2x 15mm torque rod (dog bone) bolts, move radiator tank around to get access.
-- I removed the 15mm bolts with long wobble drive ratchet extension. Wrench works too.
(6) Remove 3x 15mm bolts holding engine support to engine, and the fourth 15mm bolt for the engine mount.
-- I used an impact wrench, in my case the top part of the engine support pad did not try to turn.
-- If it does, an adjustable wrench could hold the piece, its square.
(7) Remove 3x 15mm bolts holding engine support pad to engine with long extension, change pad, reassemble.
(8) Lift the engine with the floor jack to enough to replace the 3x 15mm engine mount to engine bolts. Leave loose.
-- Engine had to move up surprisingly far!
(9) Use pry bar to move the right side of engine forward or back to replace engine pad 15mm bolt.
-- light force required
(10) Tighten 3 engine mount bolts, and 4th engine pad bolt.
-- I used 60 ft/lb (80Nm), based on the size of the 15mm bolts, maybe better to look up spec.
(11) Replace dog bone in position marked with pen on the old part
-- use pry bar to move engine to set the position of front bolt.
(12) Remount radiator water tank.

Took 30 min or so, with no cussing.