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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just ordered it from GoVo, and am having doubts.. Pretty optimistic claims. Can anyone attest to the reality? Any risks of overheating? From what I’ve read, some slight modification of the air box is in my future.
 

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i noticed better, more responsive acceleration and it was prior to the tune. don’t care too much what disbelievers say... i know what i felt

no airbox modification needed. the ecu cover may not fit for some. mine didn’t at first (without me zip tying the deeper end to adjacent wire bundles) but it does now after the entire airbox came out for a fan replacement. so the ability to fit the cover back on is probably related to a millimeter or 2 if the air box’s alignment in the engine bay. some folks run without the cover for more noise but i personally like the car running quiet, just more responsive
 

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Haha wow, I had no idea this was actually a thing.

The engineers put heat sinks on the ECM for a reason. That's a pretty expensive part to mess with for an alleged 10 to 17 HP, which I highly doubt in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i noticed better, more responsive acceleration and it was prior to the tune. don’t care too much what disbelievers say... i know what i felt

no airbox modification needed. the ecu cover may not fit for some. mine didn’t at first (without me zip tying the deeper end to adjacent wire bundles) but it does now after the entire airbox came out for a fan replacement. so the ability to fit the cover back on is probably related to a millimeter or 2 if the air box’s alignment in the engine bay. some folks run without the cover for more noise but i personally like the car running quiet, just more responsive
I read your notes in another thread. Promising! And there are others that address the overkill of that heatsink. I'm looking forward to trying it out. I don't think I need the extra noise either..just in the exhaust! That'll be next, along with swaybar.
 

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If you don't like it I'll pay you $25 for it. :D
 

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I read your notes in another thread. Promising! And there are others that address the overkill of that heatsink. I'm looking forward to trying it out. I don't think I need the extra noise either..just in the exhaust! That'll be next, along with swaybar.
cool. btw, have never had an issue with the ECU or anything really related to the spacer. it helps to have tiny hands and must have a tiny wrench to install it, but other than the cover, it's an easy mod.

you'll love getting on the larger sway bar. huge bang-for-buck upgrade for handling and flattening out corners, easy to install too (more work for us than our S40/C30 friends since we have some extra bracing/x-bars to get out of the way to install though). replacing shocks and spring is much costlier and you can wait until your stock shocks are blown, but i love the bilstein b8/H&R springs i'm running now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you don't like it I'll pay you $25 for it. :D
:cool::D I noticed your comment about getting one for the new ride. Did you have it installed on the old one? I’ll be looking for you on the streets to test it out.;)
 

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I installed an ECU spacer on my first V50 T5 auto. When that car got totaled by a suicidal deer, I pulled the spacer and installed it on my second V50 T5 M66. In both cases I did notice improved throttle response but more so with the M66 since I am on/off the throttle shifting. I doubt any hp claims because it does not increase boost pressure, only how quickly you get to max boost. There was no heating issues for the ECU. I probably have close to 90K miles of total run time with the spacer and no issue. Ford actually put the spacer on the Focus RS that used the Volvo 2.5 Turbo 5-cyl.

I noticed further throttle response improvement with the Snabb intake pipe. I ran an K&N panel filter for a while but was not that impressed and had the worry of oil gumming the MAF and fine particulate getting through.
 

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:cool::D I noticed your comment about getting one for the new ride. Did you have it installed on the old one? I’ll be looking for you on the streets to test it out.;)
The old car was sucking my wallet dry just getting to stage zero, the only mods were the cross-drilled rotors and (badly) painted calipers that came with it.

Just do me a favor and spot me a car length, ok?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
The old car was sucking my wallet dry just getting to stage zero, the only mods were the cross-drilled rotors and (badly) painted calipers that came with it.

Just do me a favor and spot me a car length, ok?
You're on..

Re sucking sounds on wallets, I foolishly employed our Seattle Volvo dealer to perform the 30,000 mi service on my car today. Somehow, I got the notion in my head that this early service would be best carried out by duly ordained techs. Unless something breaks and is covered by my CPO warranty, I will not be doing anything so foolish again. $$$ WoW! $$$ I asked them to install new plugs, since the originals, while relatively unused, were still 5 years old. So, that cost I accept, but I suspect I'll be visiting independents for everything else in the future. They did give me a massive new XC90 as a loaner, which is pretty cool, even though its closest style relative is a refrigerator. Interestingly though, there were 2 other C70's awaiting body cavity searches as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
cool. btw, have never had an issue with the ECU or anything really related to the spacer. it helps to have tiny hands and must have a tiny wrench to install it, but other than the cover, it's an easy mod.
“Tiny hands and must have a tiny wrench” you say.. !! Wow.. That’s quite a challenge! I’ve got a set of Torx tips, but no handle short enough for that space. Need to find something that will let me at those bolts.


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Man! That is one tight space! Bottom right bolt has got me beat. Dropped one T30 head immediately. ;)
 

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Indeed! My hands come out bloody, especially removing it from my old V50 after the front got smashed in my a suicidal deer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Is there a diagram I can refer to for that? It wasn't immediately obvious to me if there is a particular procedure. It looked like the access from the side would be better, but its front to back that is the issue. I'm not familiar with under the hood with this car yet!
THANKS!
 

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If you have the air snorkel to the airbox, remove that. Loosen the hose clap from the MAF sensor. Remove the ECM cover and disconnect the ECM, pulling wiring aside. Disconnect the MAF. Remove the T30 holding the wiring conduit to the box (under the MAF basically). Unclip the conduit from the box (clips in under the ECM) and then pull the box out.

Getting it out can be tricky, you have to twist and maneuver it a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Wait a Minute! You said "Why not just remove the airbox to access the screws? Takes a couple minutes.".. :nono: What's this "Getting it out can be tricky"..? :confused::eek: :D I guess I better go check out what you're getting me into!
 

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I don't know your mechanical ability. I can have them out in under 3 minutes. But I've had dozens out.

Even if it took 20 minutes, I think it would be easier than fighting those ECM screws with it in the car. You are free to make your own choice though.
 
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