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In sport mode my glovebox gets quite noisy; rattling constantly over what sometimes is not very rough road. I have taken it apart and tried to tighten everything up but it didn't help.

Is this a locking mechanism issue? It doesn't seem to be though.
 

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In sport mode my glovebox gets quite noisy; rattling constantly over what sometimes is not very rough road. I have taken it apart and tried to tighten everything up but it didn't help.

Is this a locking mechanism issue? It doesn't seem to be though.
What I have noticed at least with min is...the glove box has different layers inside and the layers are what rattles. I almost want to try like an expanding foam to cancel out any movement
 

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I bought a small role of foam insulator and put it along the edge of the glovebox where it seals against the dashboard..... has not rattled since
 

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I bought a small role of foam insulator and put it along the edge of the glovebox where it seals against the dashboard..... has not rattled since
same here
 

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I removed glovebox and pulled the metal latch off after using utility knife to cut the mushroomed plastic. I installed a popsicle stick trimmed to proper length so it fits under the metal latch plate but is not long enough to be under screws. I put metal latch back on and re-installed glove box. The door closes properly with the rubber bumpers in contact and is quiet now. I had glovebox out already for blower motor replacement.
 

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mine seems to rattle from the latch. as soon as i open the glovebox the rattle goes away completely.the rattle is only there at idle. once i raise the rpm or start driving it disappears. its really starting to bug me because i really dont want to drive with my glovebox open
 

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Years ago when I first bought my R, my glovebox would rattle too. What you need to do is buy those clear rubber feet for glass and put them on the rubber bumper contacts. It tightens it up just enough... I haven't heard a rattle since.
 

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Any fix on the glove box gap?
According to volvodrummer this is what he did that fixed it:

OK guys. Here's how you fix it for good.
1. Open glove box
2. Remove T25 screws across top edge of assy.
3. Gently pry/bend down and you'll see that the metal bands that has the retaining "U" built into it.
4. You'll notice that it's attached to the assy. by two melted plastic rivets, or that they have broken off. Either way it doesn't matter as the screws hold the assy to the dash so it won't go anywhere.
5. Take 2 small screw drivers/pick tools, or magic markers and put them between the assy and the dash on either side of the "U". Now get a small block of wood/something hard and push up against the "U" so as to bend the piece a little bit. This will effectively "shorten" the amount of the "U" that sticks out of the dash when assy. is screwed back into place. Less hook means tighter gap/latch engagment.
6. Fixed. Just don't push too much. Best to bend the piece a little then put couple screws back and test gap to see if door latches easily enough.
 

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According to volvodrummer this is what he did that fixed it:

OK guys. Here's how you fix it for good.
1. Open glove box
2. Remove T25 screws across top edge of assy.
3. Gently pry/bend down and you'll see that the metal bands that has the retaining "U" built into it.
4. You'll notice that it's attached to the assy. by two melted plastic rivets, or that they have broken off. Either way it doesn't matter as the screws hold the assy to the dash so it won't go anywhere.
5. Take 2 small screw drivers/pick tools, or magic markers and put them between the assy and the dash on either side of the "U". Now get a small block of wood/something hard and push up against the "U" so as to bend the piece a little bit. This will effectively "shorten" the amount of the "U" that sticks out of the dash when assy. is screwed back into place. Less hook means tighter gap/latch engagment.
6. Fixed. Just don't push too much. Best to bend the piece a little then put couple screws back and test gap to see if door latches easily enough.
Awesome. Thank you. I'm going to give this a shot. The glove box gap is killing me.
 

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Can we sticky this?
 

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According to volvodrummer this is what he did that fixed it:

OK guys. Here's how you fix it for good.
1. Open glove box
2. Remove T25 screws across top edge of assy.
3. Gently pry/bend down and you'll see that the metal bands that has the retaining "U" built into it.
4. You'll notice that it's attached to the assy. by two melted plastic rivets, or that they have broken off. Either way it doesn't matter as the screws hold the assy to the dash so it won't go anywhere.
5. Take 2 small screw drivers/pick tools, or magic markers and put them between the assy and the dash on either side of the "U". Now get a small block of wood/something hard and push up against the "U" so as to bend the piece a little bit. This will effectively "shorten" the amount of the "U" that sticks out of the dash when assy. is screwed back into place. Less hook means tighter gap/latch engagment.
6. Fixed. Just don't push too much. Best to bend the piece a little then put couple screws back and test gap to see if door latches easily enough.
I have done this type fix on several P2's. Sections of popsicle sticks are the right thickness to lift the latch piece. I put a little silicone on them and slide them in. I have not had any come back for glove box rattle with this fix. Every vehicle I ever do a blower motor on gets this remedy while the glove box is out.
The melted over "pins" can be an issue. I grind them off with box removed or cut them away with utility knife if glove box unit not removed.
 

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Awesome. Thank you. I'm going to give this a shot. The glove box gap is killing me.
Brandon lets meet fix both our glove box rattles at the same time. Come over my place one day
 

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Now that I posted the remedy I think I am going to try it maybe this weekend when I get time as it seems easy enough. I am assuming that only the gap side (left side) of the glove box U part needs to be bent and not the other side, correct?
 

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I got motivated to fix this today. Since this thread was lacking in some photos, I snapped a few.
Here's what the glove-box looks like from behind:


Here's a close-up of the plate with the "U-bar":


I used a hot chisel tip to take off the "mushroomed plastic rivet" and placed three layers of body kit attachment tape, as no Popsicles were available, between the plate and the top of the glove-box frame to shorten the distance the "U-bar" sticks out the front:


Seems much better after a reinstall and a quick test drive. All-in-all, not hard to remove the glove-box for better access to the plate - 8 T-25 screws I think. Also, don't forget to remove the lower molding piece above the passenger's floorboard first (it screws into the bottom of the glove-box frame) and unplug the two electrical connections for the glove-box and passenger floorboard lights as you remove the box from the dash.
 
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