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Getting ready to do timing belt - what else do I need?

1687 Views 48 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  V50_M66
Alright, I’m about to hit the service interval for the timing belt in my 04 XC70 so I’m putting an order together on parts I’ll need. So far I have:
  • Timing belt (genuine Volvo)
  • Tensioner
  • Tensioner bolt
  • Idler
  • Aisin water pump
  • Serpentine belt
  • Serpentine belt tensioner
  • Coolant
  • CTA cam lock tool
Is there anything I’m missing? Any tips to make the job go smoother? Thanks!
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If you’re doing the water pump get yourself a gasket cleaner attachment for a drill (or air tool if you’ve got it). You want that mating surface spotless so you never have to go in there again for a leak.
Cam seals?
Thought about that. Do I need any special tools for pulling the VVT hubs to do that?
Thought about that. Do I need any special tools for pulling the VVT hubs to do that?
If you find the belt wet with oil then do the seals, otherwise let them be.
I used a clamp to hold the sprockets in position, slipped the old belt off and the new one on.

CTA front cam locking tool will NOT fit your engine, its for 1998 and prior years. You can make it work by only engaging 3 of the legs and I've done that too...but its a bit hokey.

You can can't fit much in the front of the engine to clean the water pump surface, certainly not a drill, maybe a tiny die grinder if you have air, I do it by hand. Very low torque on those pump bolts, I recall 12 ft lb, thats no for a big ratchet.
I used a little stubby ratchet and just snugged them up.
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If you find the belt wet with oil then do the seals, otherwise let them be.
I used a clamp to hold the sprockets in position, slipped the old belt off and the new one on.

CTA front cam locking tool will NOT fit your engine, its for 1998 and prior years. You can make it work by only engaging 3 of the legs and I've done that too...but its a bit hokey.

You can can't fit much in the front of the engine to clean the water pump surface, certainly not a drill, maybe a tiny die grinder if you have air, I do it by hand. Very low torque on those pump bolts, I recall 12 ft lb, thats no for a big ratchet.
I used a little stubby ratchet and just snugged them up.
This is the cam tool I bought. FCP says it’ll work with any 5 cylinder Volvo, which makes sense to me. Should I get a different one instead?
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This is the cam tool I bought. FCP says it’ll work with any 5 cylinder Volvo, which makes sense to me. Should I get a different one instead?
Yeh but thats the rear locking tool, more involved just getting it installed and not needed unless you do cam seals.

Below is the front sprocket tool but it doesn't really fit, I had one from my old red block days so I made it work but its not worth buying just to cobble it.


Probably better off buying a serpentine wrench .
Agreed - no reason to do the cams, unless wet/sweating.
I also replace the WP bolts, although not a necessity.
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Agreed - no reason to do the cams, unless wet/sweating.
I also replace the WP bolts, although not a necessity.
I'll get the bolts too to be safe.
Yeh but thats the rear locking tool, more involved just getting it installed and not needed unless you do cam seals.

Below is the front sprocket tool but it doesn't really fit, I had one from my old red block days so I made it work but its not worth buying just to cobble it.


Probably better off buying a serpentine wrench .
Ok. I'll get the rear lock tool in case I need to do the seals. If I don't, I can always return it.
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Alright, I’m about to hit the service interval for the timing belt in my 04 XC70 so I’m putting an order together on parts I’ll need. So far I have:
  • Timing belt (genuine Volvo)
  • Tensioner
  • Tensioner bolt
  • Idler
  • Aisin water pump
  • Serpentine belt
  • Serpentine belt tensioner
  • Coolant
  • CTA cam lock tool
Is there anything I’m missing? Any tips to make the job go smoother? Thanks!
I'd add chemical gasket remover to the list, I had a very difficult time getting rid of all the old gasket material on the engine side mating surface and recall wishing I had some gasket remover on hand to soften what was still stuck to the engine.
I'd add chemical gasket remover to the list, I had a very difficult time getting rid of all the old gasket material on the engine side mating surface and recall wishing I had some gasket remover on hand to soften what was still stuck to the engine.
Will brake cleaner work? I've got so much of that crap laying around
Will brake cleaner work? I've got so much of that crap laying around
I've read WD40 will soften gaskets but I don't have any experience using it for that purpose.
I'll get the bolts too to be safe.

Ok. I'll get the rear lock tool in case I need to do the seals. If I don't, I can always return it.
Quite often the seals get pushed out by crankcase pressure, if you can inflate a glove over the oil filler, that same pressure is pushing on the seals and they have no retainer to keep them in place.
My cam seals leaked at 175k miles, they were not pushed out but still leaking. They probably just wore out.
i installed a turbo gauge to keep an eye on vacuum at a glance.

If the seals are leaking it will be apparent at the bottom of the belt area, the lower belt cover will be dripping oil.
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Quite often the seals get pushed out by crankcase pressure, if you can inflate a glove over the oil filler, that same pressure is pushing on the seals and they have no retainer to keep them in place.
My cam seals leaked at 175k miles, they were not pushed out but still leaking. They probably just wore out.
i installed a turbo gauge to keep an eye on vacuum at a glance.

If the seals are leaking it will be apparent at the bottom of the belt area, the lower belt cover will be dripping oil.
PCV wasn't in great shape when I got the car. Refreshed all of that like 10k miles ago. I'll get the seals in case I need them, and if I don't, I can always return them or add them to my bin of spare parts
At that mileage, if the cam seals are leaking it is often caused by excessive play in the CVVT hub(s). They come off to do the seals so I'd consider replacement. That will add significant cost. I'd also suggest replacing the CVVT hub bolts at that time.
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At that mileage, if the cam seals are leaking it is often caused by excessive play in the CVVT hub(s). They come off to do the seals so I'd consider replacement. That will add significant cost. I'd also suggest replacing the CVVT hub bolts at that time.
Yeah the cvvt hub is a whole different animal. You will know right away if that’s leaking.
To use the locking tool you have to remove the Volvo Camshaft Plug (Genuine Volvo # 1397381). You have to destroy them to remove so you must replace 😉
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The plastic timing cover was super bridle and broke in a few places when removing. I didnt replace.. this is probably not the best approach and i am living with the risk as of now
Yeah the cvvt hub is a whole different animal. You will know right away if that’s leaking.
I'm not talking about the hub itself leaking. That usually doesn't happen. But they develop excessive play which causes the cam seal to leak.
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I'm not talking about the hub itself leaking. That usually doesn't happen. But they develop excessive play which causes the cam seal to leak.
^This. Lol

Because the hub flange (not the camshaft) is what rides against the seal, when they develop excessive runout, they can move beyond the seal and leak quite badly. Our XC90 did so on the exhaust side at around 135k. The exhaust hubs seem to wear worse than the intake, but is generally suggested to replace them in pairs.

Joe
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