[norcofanatic]

Hey so coudln't find a thread on this anywhere... Excuse me if I missed it.

I am trying to install a QTP cut out which is pretty much coming down to where to draw power and the placement for the switch. I decided a good spot is right next to the front cigarette lighter. I will be able to tuck the switch in there perfectly. I will also have no issues running power back to where I have the cut out (by 2nd resonator.)

My question however is towards someone more "eletrically" minded than myself. I could simply just power the switch and entire cut out by unplugging the cigarette lighter and just using the outlet for the switch. However, this would result in my cigarette lighter not working. What I would like to do is tap into the "-" power on the cigarette lighter and run this to the switch which will be grounded. My questions regarding this are:

1) Will the cigaratte lighter and switch both have enough power at the same time set up this way?

2) I notice two grey wires runing to either "+" or "-", and two black wires running to either "+" or "-" into the cigarette lighter. Once I figure out which one is "-", can I just pull one of those wires and use it for the switch, only leaving one running to the cigarette lighter? Or does the cigareete lighter need those four wires running to it (two to the "+" and two to the "-")... Essentially there seems to be two "-" power wires running into the cigarette lighter, and I am jsut wondering if I can steal one of these for the switch.

Thanks for any help, I do not know much about electricity in general.

If this was unclear, let me know and I will try to be more specific.

 

[dlk1]

I believe that second set of wires are jumpers to the cig lighter in the rear of the console, facing the rear seat.

As for +/- on those, I'm pretty sure the center wire is the positive and the one connected to the outer part is the negative.

 

[ieatglue]

Just use some wire taps. Inexpensive and you get to keep your cig lighter!

You slide the cig wire into the inside part, and put the wire you want to add to your switch on the outer part, then you just press the metal plate thing and it will cut through both wire covers and contact the metal wire inside and give power to the new wire. You'll figure it out when you buy some. A 4 pack around here is about $2.49, pretty cheap

 

[Adrenaline406]

I've been interested in a cut out too. Any pictures of the install or maybe video of the piece in action?

I'm using the cigarette lighter as signal for my subwoofer and have tapped it using the same way as above. My lighter has remained functional and it works flawlessly for the sub.

 

[tmtalpey]

I notice two grey wires runing to either "+" or "-", and two black wires running to either "+" or "-" into the cigarette lighter. Once I figure out which one is "-"

Black (SB or "sbart") is always chassis ground in Volvos.

 

[MyNameIdeasWereTaken]

I will say, you should most definitely have enough power. I have a simple walmart splitter hooked up to my 12v socket, which I have wired to my FM transmitter and GPS (both of which are on when the car is on). Though, I'm not sure if the cabin can take more than two devices using power, I blew a fuse when I plugged an actual cigarette lighter in. Either way, you should still have full use of the 12v socket with what you're wanting to do.

 

[norcofanatic]

Wow forgot about this thread my bad. I had great pics and video, but my phone crashed and unfortunately I sold that car.

I will say this, a cut out on a NA car has it's ups and downs. Losing back pressure creates some serious power loss at lower rpm. At higher rpm you'll have a huge smile on your face.

In regards to its application on a 2006 s40 2.4i, impressive... I placed the cutout by where the 2nd resonator is, which I removed for the cut out. First off, the drone is insane at that 2000-3000rpm range. Sounds very raspy and "dry" is the best way to explain it at low revs (what it sounds like outside.). Being honest at the low rev ranges, the cut out does little.

But, at high revs it's is truly entertaining. The noise the 5 cylinder makes at 6000rpm with the cut out open, is mind blasting. I've had some seriously bad ass sounding cars, but nothing sounded like this. At high revs, just screaming my little s40 legit sounding like an exotic. The amount of people that would look around confused as to what was making such a godly noise, made me smile all the time.

I would summarize with saying I felt no power gains using a cut out on a NA. You lose low rpm power to gain high rpm power. At the end of the day, it's just something fun. I would recommend it if you have the $, being able to be incredibly loud and awesome sounding at the flip of a switch never got old.

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[norcofanatic]

Oh and thanks for the advice guys, I used wire taps like suggested. Worked great...

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[Delhibeli]

Hi Norcofanatic,

I did not see what year your car was but for a MY07 (schematic title is 2007_S40(04-) there are actually three 12 volt socket connections in the S40. One is on the console and one on the rear of the console for the rear seat use. Both of those are feed by fuse F3 in the engine compartment thru relay 21/93 (controled by CEM) to fuse 45 (15 amp) in passenger compartment then on to both sockets wired in parallel. The third one is in the trunk on the right side (just the wire, as you have to purchase the socket as an option) which is feed by fuse F4 in the engine compartment then by fuse F77 (15 amp) in the passenger compartment. This wire/socket is directly from the battery source and no relays or control by CEM effects it. By the way, gray is +12vdc and black is ground.

I can supply a schematic if you need it.

Hope this helps,
delhi

 

[norcofanatic]

Thanks man, I got it all figured. Sold the car a few months back as well.

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[mmustangsrus]

Hi Norcofanatic,

I did not see what year your car was but for a MY07 (schematic title is 2007_S40(04-) there are actually three 12 volt socket connections in the S40. One is on the console and one on the rear of the console for the rear seat use. Both of those are feed by fuse F3 in the engine compartment thru relay 21/93 (controled by CEM) to fuse 45 (15 amp) in passenger compartment then on to both sockets wired in parallel. The third one is in the trunk on the right side (just the wire, as you have to purchase the socket as an option) which is feed by fuse F4 in the engine compartment then by fuse F77 (15 amp) in the passenger compartment. This wire/socket is directly from the battery source and no relays or control by CEM effects it. By the way, gray is +12vdc and black is ground.

I can supply a schematic if you need it.

Hope this helps,
delhi

Sorry to bump a old thread but it would be great if I could get that diagram...
None of my lighters work
Thanks in advance

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